P38 DHSE. 1996 MY. LEFT ME STRANDED.

The EKA code can be de-activated, but his won't stop the car going into a Keycode Lockout. By turning off the EKA code means you remove the priviledge of bypassing the Keycode Lockout. Having the EKA code active is like having a spare key under the mat.

As to the problem on this post, It's a fine line between the RF receiver, Drivers door lock mechanism, or the fob itself.

The procedure I'd do is one of this.

Turn off the passive immobilser, thus allowing only key entry into the vehicle. If everything is ok after this, then the RF was at fault. If the problem still exists then replace the drivers door lock mechanism, & trial the vehicle. It's a simple fix as long as you know the procedure.

That's the plan. Will see how it behaves now immobiliser turned off. Thanks.

I've attached a set of instructions for checking the door latch microswitches that I wrote up and posted on another forum a while back.
I rebuild door latches, so used it as a cheat sheet for testing them after I'd rebuilt one with new microswitches until I built myself a bench test unit for them as it's a lot quicker when there's 6 or 7 of them to do in a batch!

If nothing else, then it will let you know if the latch microswitches are working as they should be, and it costs nothing by a little bit of time to check them.

Hope this helps,
Marty

martyuk said:

I've attached a set of instructions for checking the door latch microswitches that I wrote up and posted on another forum a while back.
I rebuild door latches, so used it as a cheat sheet for testing them after I'd rebuilt one with new microswitches until I built myself a bench test unit for them as it's a lot quicker when there's 6 or 7 of them to do in a batch!

If nothing else, then it will let you know if the latch microswitches are working as they should be, and it costs nothing by a little bit of time to check them.

Hope this helps,
Marty

Click to expand...

Thanks for that. Door latch out when weather warms up a bit.

No Problem.

You can usually test the door latch in-situ - I just unplug the main connector (biggest black one) at the outstation to stop it communicating with the BECM (so it doesn't lock/unlock and all that when you test the latch) and then probe the connections either at the latch or the outstation (need to have the latch unplugged from either loom or outstation for the tests to be accurate). If I'm on my own then a couple of alligator clip test leads on the multimeter probes and the latch connector pins helps!

If you end up finding you have a duff latch and are interested in a rebuilt one then drop me a PM

Cheers,
Marty

Thanks Marty. Will do.