P38 cutting out!

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T

TY-RANGE-ONE

New Member
Posts
25
Hi all,
I have had no trouble from my 1997 P38 for 3 years.
Today when on my way back from collecting the kids from school I lost power.
Once the engine died I was presented with fault warnings on the Dash computer readout.

PAS failure
Airbag failure
Traction Control failure
35mph speed limit

Unable to start the car, couldn’t hear the fuel pump buzz when ignition was switched on. Engine didn’t turn over.

AA came out after 30mins and it started 1st time.

AA followed me home, once home car sat idling for a bit and cut out. The same fault readings were being displayed on the dash.

AA could not find anything wrong with the car,
Checked battery charge,
That the battery is being charged,
Aux belt,
Sprayed something into the air intake (as wouldn’t start, then it started under normal conditions)
Fuel pump reply,
Fuel pump fuse
And run a computer diagnostic. All clear.

If you’re still reading this, thanks for taking the time and sticking with it!

Any ideas? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

And I was going to start advertising to sell the car today! What's the chance, hey!

Tyrone
:doh:
 
Ty, all those failure warnings and the engine cutting out indicates not getting enough volts. You've a short somewhere, bad earth, something. You say battery is charging but I'd still double check that. And you need to get to someone with specialised diagnostics to clear all the faults and reset the car's ecus to get you running once you've fixed it. General purpose code readers of the type Mr. AA Man might have probably won't do the job.
 
I would be looking at the main fuse box in the engine bay. These are prone to corrosion and its been put forward that these should be changed after 8 years anyhow to prevent issues. A whole new one is not to expensive even from the main dealer.
 
Cheers for the replies guys.
I forgot to mention that the car will still start and run for a bit. Then cut out. ( I dont know if that makes a difference to the replies you sent)
I'm going to contact my local Land Rover Specilist, i dont know if he goes out to houses but i'm just at the end of his road, so fingers crossed.

Regarding the short - my alarm has set off a couple of time in the past few days.. maybe thats another sign? I just thought it was kids trying to smash my window AGAIN!


Cheers again.
 
Just been out to the car and when I went to lock it the Alarm went off.
Unlocked, opened the driver door and shut it. Locked it again and looked at the dash, alarm didn't sound and the dash showed r/h f door open.
I check it and retried, alarm went off again. Repeated the above and same dash message showed....

## CONFUSED!! ##
 
TY-RANGE-ONE said:
Just been out to the car and when I went to lock it the Alarm went off.
Unlocked, opened the driver door and shut it. Locked it again and looked at the dash, alarm didn't sound and the dash showed r/h f door open.
I check it and retried, alarm went off again. Repeated the above and same dash message showed....

## CONFUSED!! ##
Click to expand...

Bad connections, or door lock mechanism shagged. Gav Brigs is the expert:D
 
TY-RANGE-ONE said:
Just been out to the car and when I went to lock it the Alarm went off.
Unlocked, opened the driver door and shut it. Locked it again and looked at the dash, alarm didn't sound and the dash showed r/h f door open.
I check it and retried, alarm went off again. Repeated the above and same dash message showed....

## CONFUSED!! ##
Click to expand...

Not disputing the excellent Datatek, but I had that door as open (when not), no noise on indicators and lights permanently on. Followed advice on here about disconnect battery, wait ten minutes, reconnect and reset all windows/sun roof and it all went away. Think of it like resetting a PC. Your problem could still be there, but it may be worth a try as the BeCM could have got confused.

Cheers
 
adamrharding said:
Not disputing the excellent Datatek, but I had that door as open (when not), no noise on indicators and lights permanently on. Followed advice on here about disconnect battery, wait ten minutes, reconnect and reset all windows/sun roof and it all went away. Think of it like resetting a PC. Your problem could still be there, but it may be worth a try as the BeCM could have got confused.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Good advice:D
 
I tried the 'remove battery for 15mis' with now joy.
Took to my local LR Specialist for Diagnostic - They have been unable to locate the fault. Told me the when going into the BECM it threw them out when trying to enter the applications section...

Got to go collect it now.. 50 quid down and still no answer?
 
TY,
I recently had a problem with engine stalling and would not re-start. Leave it for about 35mins and it would start OK. Would run for a while then stall again.
Got error codes implying voltage errors but it turned out to be a failing crank sensor. They are not expensive, about £30. Since it was changed it has been great. I did not have issues with alarm or windows though.
 
not sure what they were using.
Steve, was yours also the same situation with the fuel pump not activating one it cuts out?
I might try this as a final effort to fix before I try and sell as is.
The door, window & alarm problems has gone since removing battery for 10mins..
 
When I first broke down the RSC chap thought it was a fuel problem. When it stalled the fuel was up to pressure so couldn't hear the fuel pump. When it had been standing for a while and I turned the ignition I could hear the fuel pump for a few seconds. Fortunately I didnt change the pump!
When the car won't start, if you can, check for a spark. If there is no spark I suggest it may be the crank sensor, as this controls ignition timing. Read up on Rave, it may help you. If you do have a spark it point towards a fuel issue. If it is the crank sensor it's a relatively cheap fix and certainly better then trying to sell as is...

Steve
 
update..
Car is still sitting outside my house unused.

I got another engine bay fuse box of ebay, as i went to my car to fit it I saw 'gearbox fault' come up on dash, plus all the windows needed to be reset. (as if the battery had been removed )
I continued to fit the new (second hand) fuse box. Once done I reconnected the battery and went to turn the ignition on.
I got 'key lock out', windows didn’t work, stereo didn’t work and central locking was going mad!! Also the dash display was very faint!
I removed the battery and checked the voltage (11v) plus tested it on my charger and was shown as fully charged???
Plus it back into my car and got the same.. Key lock out. Tried windows and they didn’t work..

Went to LR today and got the EKA code but when got home nothing is working. I unlocked the car with my key.. put it in the ignition and nothing.. it’s like the battery isn’t even in there!!

I’ve got nothing coming up on the dash, nothing when i turn the key in the door?? I'm confused?
I changed all the relays & fuses in the new fuse box with the old fuse box and it’s still the same..

Any ideas now guys?? The car is going from bad to worse every day!!

Thanks in advance..

Tyrone
 
Maybe post up your location and someone might be nearby who could help you? I'm sorry but I've no other advice to give on this one!
 
TY-RANGE-ONE said:
update..
Car is still sitting outside my house unused.

I got another engine bay fuse box of ebay, as i went to my car to fit it I saw 'gearbox fault' come up on dash, plus all the windows needed to be reset. (as if the battery had been removed )
I continued to fit the new (second hand) fuse box. Once done I reconnected the battery and went to turn the ignition on.
I got 'key lock out', windows didn’t work, stereo didn’t work and central locking was going mad!! Also the dash display was very faint!
I removed the battery and checked the voltage (11v) plus tested it on my charger and was shown as fully charged???
Plus it back into my car and got the same.. Key lock out. Tried windows and they didn’t work..

Went to LR today and got the EKA code but when got home nothing is working. I unlocked the car with my key.. put it in the ignition and nothing.. it’s like the battery isn’t even in there!!

I’ve got nothing coming up on the dash, nothing when i turn the key in the door?? I'm confused?
I changed all the relays & fuses in the new fuse box with the old fuse box and it’s still the same..

Any ideas now guys?? The car is going from bad to worse every day!!

Thanks in advance..

Tyrone
Click to expand...
Dodgey ebay fuse box?
 
How old is your battery? Get this tested properly. I have read and been told they last a good 2-3 years before packing up. Even a slightly dodgy cell can really confuse the becm and suddenly throw up a host of faults.
 
You ain't going to get anywhere without proper battery voltage. It is pointless messing about with a shagged battery and I will wager the fusebox you bought was on eBay because someone had bought a new one to sort there problem out and have now passed it on to you. Sometimes you just can't get away from spending a few £££s. Buy a new battery. Buy a new fusebox. Have the alternator tested. Check to make sure your BECM is going to sleep properly.
 
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