P38 Cranking

RangeRoller dt said:

Does it do the 4-5 sec thing when cold?? Could be a hotstart issue effect.

Look up ‘ghost locking’ in search bar. @DanClarke is good with this there is also a test sheet on here somewhere by MartyUK

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Ghost lock/unlocks of the central locking are classic symptoms of failing switchpack contacts in the drivers doorlatch. It happens at random but especially when going over bumpy surfaces/hitting a pothole.
I changed my drivers door latch and the problem was fixed. I paid for a brand-new one but as a help to others I sent my failed unit to @martyuk to add to his stock for repair and resale.
I think 80% of the time its the drivers doorlatch contacts that fail as they carry the current for the boot-latch mechanism as well. Its a good permanent fix.

Hi guys
thank you all for helping, I don't have diagnostic tools, so the Rave is that software to download?
Today the electrition came to install the hotfix set, but after installation the car crank but not start and the glowing light and the engine light in the second ingiation not work at all, he said you need to change the computer panel something went wrong with it, is that right and anybody know what I should do?


Please help

williamadam said:

Hi guys
thank you all for helping, I don't have diagnostic tools, so the Rave is that software to download?
Today the electrition came to install the hotfix set, but after installation the car crank but not start and the glowing light and the engine light in the second ingiation not work at all, he said you need to change the computer panel something went wrong with it, is that right and anybody know what I should do?


Please help

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No, RAVE is just the manuals and all the info you need to diagnose & fix your landy with the appropriate tools etc.
You electrician may not understand how it all works. You need the help of the Diesel experts here.
@wammers is your best friend to help get a 2.5 Diesel up and running.

Hi DanClarke
Thank for making it clear I appreciate it, I don't know from where I can download Rave, sorry for disturbing but I don't have any experience.

williamadam said:

Hi guys
thank you all for helping, I don't have diagnostic tools, so the Rave is that software to download?
Today the electrition came to install the hotfix set, but after installation the car crank but not start and the glowing light and the engine light in the second ingiation not work at all, he said you need to change the computer panel something went wrong with it, is that right and anybody know what I should do?


Please help

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No need to touch any computer with the hotfix. He's buggered something!

I think Wammers explained which wires the hotfix splices into recently if you search his posts. Might have been on a Range Rover DT thread.

Grrrrrr said:

No need to touch any computer with the hotfix. He's buggered something!

I think Wammers explained which wires the hotfix splices into recently if you search his posts. Might have been on a Range Rover DT thread.

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What @Grrrrrr said, it should be pretty simple to remove the hot start fix just colour to colour wire take it back to standard see if it starts up would be first thing for me to try, if it does then and only then find somebody else to fit the hot start kit.

Just seen I was tagged here... I cant help with the diesel issues, as I have a V8 - but the latch... I see you are in Norway, so I gather you have a LHD vehicle... I think I might have a couple of LHD latches kicking about here on the shelf, but I would need to check.

I'd recommend doing the tests on the microswitches to try and determine which of the front latches is giving the issues (quite often it is the RHF as the tailgate latch grounds through there as has already been mentioned) But jumping door locks could be triggered from either front door as they both have CDL switches which will cause that to happen.

Grrrrrr said:

No need to touch any computer with the hotfix. He's buggered something!

I think Wammers explained which wires the hotfix splices into recently if you search his posts. Might have been on a Range Rover DT thread.

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+1 to the above, your electrician has messed up.

Grrrrrr said:

No need to touch any computer with the hotfix. He's buggered something!

I think Wammers explained which wires the hotfix splices into recently if you search his posts. Might have been on a Range Rover DT thread.

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Thank you Grrrrr for your reply, today the electrician came with ECU and he repair and the car start, still not know what will be when it is hot. I will update.
I appreciate it.

brianp38dse said:

Have a look at this web page should help
http://www.tawpark4x4.co.uk/instructions/bmw_hotfix.htm
And the locks jumping is probably the drivers door lock micro switches playing up.

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Thank you very much.

Datatek said:

+1 to the above, your electrician has messed up.

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Thank you for helping and replay.

RangeRoller dt said:

Does it do the 4-5 sec thing when cold?? Could be a hotstart issue effect.

Look up ‘ghost locking’ in search bar. @DanClarke is good with this there is also a test sheet on here somewhere by MartyUK

Click to expand...

Hi Thank you, when it is cold no, it starts as the clock.

dubbleRR said:

Next time try just cooling the injection pump ,If it starts its something to do with the pump,,,Try it tell us how you get on ......

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Hi thank you, should I cool it with water also?
When it is cold there is no problem.

williamadam said:

Hi thank you, should I cool it with water also?
When it is cold there is no problem.

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One of the signs of a worn FIP is that it is hard to start hot but cooling the FIP with cold water seems to help it start. Unfortunately the cure is fitting a refurbished FIP.

Re-do the static timing and the hot start problem may go away, also double check the in tank pump is working as an old tired FIP is less likely to want to pull fuel through on a hot start.

williamadam said:

Hi Thank you, when it is cold no, it starts as the clock.

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Mine was same.
Sounds like a working hotstart may solve or atleast help your issue.
setting static timing helped much also.
In tank pump will effect too.

Signs of mine seemed like FIP but static + hotstart and it’s okay now. My FIP has 145,000 miles so should be okay despite how it looked.

martyuk said:

Just seen I was tagged here... I cant help with the diesel issues, as I have a V8 - but the latch... I see you are in Norway, so I gather you have a LHD vehicle... I think I might have a couple of LHD latches kicking about here on the shelf, but I would need to check.

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Thank you for your replay here, I will check that, and thank you a lot if you can check if you have.

RangeRoller dt said:

setting static timing helped much also.

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Thank you for replay, what is Static timing please? is that also take a long time to do? and difficult? would you please send me any link showing the static timing?

Datatek said:

Re-do the static timing and the hot start problem may go away, also double check the in tank pump is working as an old tired FIP is less likely to want to pull fuel through on a hot start.

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Thank you very much I appreciate it.

Grrrrrr said:

One of the signs of a worn FIP is that it is hard to start hot but cooling the FIP with cold water seems to help it start. Unfortunately the cure is fitting a refurbished FIP.

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Thank you a lot, when he set up the hot start kit it seems better now.but I notice, when I am driving in road and doesn't need to press the diesel pedal the engine light is lighting but as I press pedal again it has gone, also still when I change the gear if I take more time not pressing the diesel pedal the car is stopped.