P38 - Anti Roll Bar Help

Guys,

A little advice please.

I am looking to replace the anti roll bar bushes on my P38 with the new poly ones.

Any reason why I can't replace the bushes without jacking the car up first?

Also, can anyone recommend a retailer, near Gatwick?

Steve

I think if done on level ground the ARB isn't stressed so is easy to simply unbolt the bush mounting bracket, remove the old bush, insert new and rebolt into place, repeat for the other side. Lying underneath with the car on high suspension setting there is plenty of room for access, unless you're "lardy".

Island 4x4 are in Maidstone, Kent.

Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order. - Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

But I would think there would be a parts supplier nearer.

Point is why is he fitted Poly bushes at twice the price of standard ones when they will make diddle squat difference to anything?

wammers said:

Point is why is he fitted Poly bushes at twice the price of standard ones when they will make diddle squat difference to anything?

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I was wondering that. Normal rubber bushes are fine for this job, and about £2 each. Maybe because it was a mod that Wheeler Dealers did to theirs, with Ed saying it was a better option? What do they know

Alan C said:

I was wondering that. Normal rubber bushes are fine for this job, and about £2 each. Maybe because it was a mod that Wheeler Dealers did to theirs, with Ed saying it was a better option? What do they know

Click to expand...

Maybe he will be fitting a none matching headlamp, tinting the windows and fitting a £200.00 compressor instead of a £15.00 seal aswell. Ed has a lot to answer for.

I can understand him fitting a recon compressor, they don't want to complicate the issue by stripping a "complicated" item on the show. A non-techie would change the lot rather than stripping and replacing the seal, and you have to admit it's not easy to change, a right pig to get it all off the piston. As to tints, they really added to the resale price, they got their money back for fitting them, not! Not that I'm against tints, I have them too Quote from Ed "Always fit the correct parts and check they are right for your model year", he needs to heed his own advice, miss-matching headlamps and early fogs on a facelift indeed :blabla: Anyway, I'm rambling and gone off topic!

I love Wheeler Dealers!!!! Better than "Corrie"

Seriously, no tinting for mine or fitting odd headlamps. Oh, and my compressor is fine thanks!!

Interesting point about using the standard bushes though - if the poly ones don't do anything different then might as well buy the standard ones - more money for beer!

As for me possibly being a "Lardy", well I can get underneath on normal setting - even at 15st!!!:mooning:

Thanks Steve

Another job done!

The new ones have made a difference.

Thanks for all the comments, even the sarcy ones!!!

Steve

Did your old ones look worn before removal? What made you want to replace them, just out of curiosity?

I replaced them because Ed told me too!!


Seriously, they were cracked (crazed) and there was some movement of the roll bar, which accounted for a bit of "roll" in corners.

I wouldn't say the change is a drastic difference, but it is definitely better and for less than a fiver, worth doing.

Hi. New member so apologies if doing this wrong! 2001 4.6 Vogue P38.

Replacing roll bar drop links after low speed shunt so replacing bushes whilst I am at it (poly I am afraid) 2 problems.

Drop link to chassis fastening is hidden by "shroud" on chassis so can't get spanner on flats near ball joint head to stop it spinning when I try to tighten new nyloc nut!

Although bushes/fasteners are spaced as far apart as poss on roll bar, the holes in fasteners do not line up with threads on axle! (I fear I may have stripped some threads trying to get bolt started whilst under sideways pressure.

Is there an easy fix for my difficulty?

Phil

Oh-lah Madrid!

I can't say I've tackled these bushes specifically but it seems you've got a more general assembly problem that I have had experience with. Getting a nyloc on a spinning bolt firstly, just like doing the suspension ball joints on the old Mini's. Make sure the threads are free running so you're not fighting a tight thread, the nut should spin down with finger pressure. You need to exert some pressure on the spinning bolt; try wedging it with a big screwdriver, chisel or if there's room a small scissor jack. Get it pulled into place with an ordinary nut and that may jam up the bolt itself, then remove and fit the nyloc. A misaligned bracket is a bit confusing. Are the holes different to the axle or is the roll bar pulling the whole thing away in one direction. If the holes are on a different pitch you need to realign them, either its bent and needs straightening or if only a little out you could file the holes to give a clearance. Start with good threads, recut them if necessary and file the first couple of turns to a slight spiral with the edge of a half round file. As with all threads apply a little lubricant to deter rust - you may need to get them out again in the future!

Good luck!

Speedex - the ARB drop links aren't tapered ball joints, so I'm afraid its nothing like the suspension joints on other cars

Madrid, You just need to put an open ended spanner vertically up between the side of the shroud straight onto the hex part of the ball joint. Its a bit tight, but it fits. If you can lose a spanner, grind the end so that its a bit thinner, but I didn't need to do that on mine. Can be a bit tight to get the spanner out at the end, so make sure it stays as a loose fit when getting towards the end. NB, Make sure the bottome of the drop link ISN'T attached to the ARB before fitting the top of the drop link

For the ARB bushes, it is tight, my brackets are almost on the bend on the ARB, but they will go. Get one side on, don't tighten the bolts until you've got the other end started. Get all four bolts in half way before tightening any.

Oh, and don't hijack threads You'll get a response quicker on a new thread.

stevef1964 said:

Guys,

A little advice please.

I am looking to replace the anti roll bar bushes on my P38 with the new poly ones.

Any reason why I can't replace the bushes without jacking the car up first?

Also, can anyone recommend a retailer, near Gatwick?

Steve

Click to expand...

Inside out dorking or as suggested mail order. if you jack it up on stands your have more room for yourself .

I got my drop links from Halleys of Surrey, who are based at Redhill Aerodrome (01737 821272)

Very easy to fit.

I have two small homemade ramps which raise the car another 6 inches.

If you put the car onto the ramps, raise suspension to the highest setting and secure by having doors open and stands beneath the chassis, you will have loads of room.

The threaded bolt has a face which sits behind the anti rollbar bracket, the one you say you cant get to, and can be got to by using a number 18 (I think) spanner. Just drop it in from above the bolt. Then when you undo the front nut it will lock the bolt and all will be well!

To get the new ones on you just have to lever the anti rollbar bracket with a large screw driver or bar.

Note: the drop links may not come with new nuts, so check.

Took me 10 mins each side.

Hope that helps