P38 Air Suspension Not Starting Up

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Radar1946

Active Member
Posts
349
Location
Lichfield, Staffordshire
Fitted a reconditioned valve block today and the compressor will not start up. I have tested it and it works fine. Everything worked fine until I fitted a recon valve block. Any Ideas.?.
 
Hey, check your plugs are positively plugged together.
Do you have another pump to try incase your existing one has died coincidentally?:eek:
If you have an electric meter/tester you could check for a voltage supply when the pump should be operating?
 
Fitted a reconditioned valve block today and the compressor will not start up. I have tested it and it works fine. Everything worked fine until I fitted a recon valve block. Any Ideas.?.

Compressor has little to do with valve block. Only thing on valve block that effects compressor operation is pressure switch. How did you run compressor?
 
What difference would that make to compressor running????
Clearly none (or you wouldn't be pulling me up on it, now would you?). :D
I assumed that as the EAS operations were inhibited by tailgate etc. it would also mean it would not bother with the compressor either.
 
Clearly none (or you wouldn't be pulling me up on it, now would you?). :D
I assumed that as the EAS operations were inhibited by tailgate etc. it would also mean it would not bother with the compressor either.

EAS operations are, no height changes will be made with a door open. But the air storage system has nothing to do with that. It's a completely independent circuit.
 
I have a Lynx diagnostics unit, and I can force the compressor to start, but it only lasts for a few seconds, then stops.
There are no faults showing. All doors and tailgate are shut when testing. What is this I read somewhere about it could be locked?
 
I have a Lynx diagnostics unit, and I can force the compressor to start, but it only lasts for a few seconds, then stops.
There are no faults showing. All doors and tailgate are shut when testing. What is this I read somewhere about it could be locked?
Anything on the dash message centre without the diagnostics plugged in? If you have the "Slow 35 mph" message the EAS has a hard fault which will need to be reset.
The engine needs to be running for the compressor to run.
 
I have a Lynx diagnostics unit, and I can force the compressor to start, but it only lasts for a few seconds, then stops.
There are no faults showing. All doors and tailgate are shut when testing. What is this I read somewhere about it could be locked?

In what sense locked? Other than as Keith says it can't be locked and that would not stop the compressor being run by diag. Be careful what you read on line most people who spout about EAS don't know their arse from their elbow. Look at tech archive and follow my directions for checking things out.
 
Just tried without diagnostics plugged in. The first time I switched the ignition on it said "Slow 35 mph".
Then on more tries it did not mention 35mph just the orange light with the arrow underneath.
The lights on the height switch work when I try a different height, the lowest stays on but the third one up
just keeps flashing.
 
Just tried without diagnostics plugged in. The first time I switched the ignition on it said "Slow 35 mph".
Then on more tries it did not mention 35mph just the orange light with the arrow underneath.
The lights on the height switch work when I try a different height, the lowest stays on but the third one up
just keeps flashing.

That means you have no air pressure. Check the compressor out as said in last post. And pressure sensor wiring to plug.
 
The compressor is relatively new, and will run if forced by lynx. It seems that something is stopping the compressor
switching on. I will go and check it in the car. Which two coloured wires do I c?onnect
 
The compressor is relatively new, and will run if forced by lynx. It seems that something is stopping the compressor
switching on. I will go and check it in the car. Which two coloured wires do I c?onnect

Thermal switch?

If it runs on diagnostics or bridging the wires but not on the car I'd say thermal switch. If you bridge the wrong wires testing it you will fry the thermal switch.
 
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