What is the ingredients to make a welder? I have flour
Not everyone has a welder guuuuuyssssss
A good battery or 2, 2 heavy leads, couple of clamps and a welding rod. Work quick
U tube itJ
P38 2.5DSE 96/97 Water pump
- Thread starter synchro
- Start date
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A good battery or 2, 2 heavy leads, couple of clamps and a welding rod. Work quick
U tube itJ
tomcat59alan
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Do you have a blow torch,plenty of heat will help.I think i will purchase a screw extractor set and see how that goes. I mean, it cant be such a bugger can it? Its a small bolt
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I wonder if you could be related to @RangeRoller dt?
RangeRoller dt
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RangeRoller dt
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Proper penetrating fluid like plus gas or acetone will help. Persistence is what overcomes these sort of issues more than anything I find.
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+1 for +gas
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RangeRoller dt
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Not as EZ as it sounds
yup, i got a blowtorch handy.
Got myself some mole grips, some magic juice and some screw extractor just if they come in handy.
Ready for the job today, but might need to let the magic juice do wonders first.
Magic juice= not vodka It is some quite expensive stuff in order to loosen up theese sort of issues
Got myself some mole grips, some magic juice and some screw extractor just if they come in handy.
Ready for the job today, but might need to let the magic juice do wonders first.
Magic juice= not vodka
It is some quite expensive stuff in order to loosen up theese sort of issuestomcat59alan
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And don't try to turn it out from the start but use a"rocking" turn between loosening and tightening if you know what I mean, soaking the threads while you turn so the oil gets down the bolt. Difficult to explain but hope you understand.Not as EZ as it sounds
And don't try to turn it out from the start but use a"rocking" turn between loosening and tightening if you know what I mean, soaking the threads while you turn so the oil gets down the bolt. Difficult to explain but hope you understand.
understood.
Its actually what i did, but the bolt didnt feel like having it.
So today it will come out screaming soaked in magic juice.
Need a new bolt tho. Is there a special part number or is it just to go into any hardware store and buy exact same bolt?
Datatek
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Acetone mixed with ATF makes good penetrating fluid
tomcat59alan
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The part number isSTC2347 it's a flanged head bolt but any M6×25mm bolt with a washer should do, copper slip the threads when reassembling.
The part number isSTC2347 it's a flanged head bolt but any M6×25mm bolt with a washer should do, copper slip the threads when reassembling.
Isnt copper slip bad on aluminium?
tomcat59alan
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Don't the threads go into a cast iron engine block?Isnt copper slip bad on aluminium?
idk, isnt the bmw m51 (2.5dse) aluminium? the whole shabang? I'm very unsure as i cant really tell the difference between 20 years old greased up aluminium and cast iron. I dont sit with to much knowledge, barely know what im doing
I've drilled trough the bolt, and have soaked it with some magic juice and will tap in one of theese special hex stick and screw that thing right out (hopefully) btw, can recommend the Milwaukee M12 FDD-0 it drilled quite nicely trough the piece. (also drilled my new thermostat (bleed hole, at 4.5mm 12o clock), and checked that it worked in a pan of water, this one opens at 79degrees and also opens abit wider i'd say than the old thermostat.
Forgot to say thank you @tomcat59alan for the bolt partnumber! so thank you for that!
it also seems like the old thermostat had a oneway valve mounted 12 o clock, whilst the bleed hole (someone had drilled it previously i see) was 6 o clock.
I hope it goes well tapping in the rod thingy and extract the remains, with hopefully undamaged threads. If not i must probably drill with a slight larger bit and use a bigger bolt, but i guess that aint the end of the world/engine...
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Cast steel crankcaseidk, isnt the bmw m51 (2.5dse) aluminium? the whole shabang? I'm very unsure as i cant really tell the difference between 20 years old greased up aluminium and cast iron. I dont sit with to much knowledge, barely know what im doing
I've drilled trough the bolt, and have soaked it with some magic juice and will tap in one of theese special hex stick and screw that thing right out (hopefully) btw, can recommend the Milwaukee M12 FDD-0 it drilled quite nicely trough the piece. (also drilled my new thermostat (bleed hole, at 4.5mm 12o clock), and checked that it worked in a pan of water, this one opens at 79degrees and also opens abit wider i'd say than the old thermostat.
Forgot to say thank you @tomcat59alan for the bolt partnumber! so thank you for that!
it also seems like the old thermostat had a oneway valve mounted 12 o clock, whilst the bleed hole (someone had drilled it previously i see) was 6 o clock.
I hope it goes well tapping in the rod thingy and extract the remains, with hopefully undamaged threads. If not i must probably drill with a slight larger bit and use a bigger bolt, but i guess that aint the end of the world/engine...
RangeRoller dt
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The valve in the thermostat is to stop air getting stuck in there bleeding. Bleeding the coolant 9 times out of 10 is no problem but now and again can be one of them days for some.
