P38 2.5dse 1997 MOT

Anti roll bar yes, but I like it with little less roll and more rock

Just pushed the radius bushings out with the special tool.( LRT-60-004) Worked like a charm. Used just bellow 5 ton before they popped. Used about 4 ton installing.
I did not usy any grease, neither did i do any sanding/polishing of the inside. It was looking all shiny there, with no "nuppings"

superb tool, worked just as it should..

The inner metal liner in the old bushes was completly loose.. (the middle part) so the radius arm could sway pretty decently left-right movement.. like 2-3 cm play or more..

Now i just gotta mount the roll bar on, (with new links and d bushes) and the radius arm, then continue my way over to the ball joints...

Everythings ruuuuusty in that area...

I'm just gonna mentally prepare myself, but..
Is ball joints easier, or harder to do in anyones experience? I have c press/clamp.

Is it hard getting the hub off?
I'm watching videos 24/7 before doing my installs, goes so much easier.

and God damn how hard the rear front nut on the radius arm was... and having it in such a bad spot.. the shock is blocking the nut quite a bit with that large stud...

Also, im sad i guess, to inform you that i've ordered a model 3 (not coming before 2023 tho)

I run trou 5000€ just in diesel commuting work-home so the model 3 will save me some pain...

synchro said:

Just pushed the radius bushings out with the special tool.( LRT-60-004) Worked like a charm. Used just bellow 5 ton before they popped. Used about 4 ton installing.
I did not usy any grease, neither did i do any sanding/polishing of the inside. It was looking all shiny there, with no "nuppings"

superb tool, worked just as it should..

The inner metal liner in the old bushes was completly loose.. (the middle part) so the radius arm could sway pretty decently left-right movement.. like 2-3 cm play or more..

Now i just gotta mount the roll bar on, (with new links and d bushes) and the radius arm, then continue my way over to the ball joints...

Everythings ruuuuusty in that area...

I'm just gonna mentally prepare myself, but..
Is ball joints easier, or harder to do in anyones experience? I have c press/clamp.

Is it hard getting the hub off?
I'm watching videos 24/7 before doing my installs, goes so much easier.

and God damn how hard the rear front nut on the radius arm was... and having it in such a bad spot.. the shock is blocking the nut quite a bit with that large stud...

Also, im sad i guess, to inform you that i've ordered a model 3 (not coming before 2023 tho)

I run trou 5000€ just in diesel commuting work-home so the model 3 will save me some pain...

Click to expand...

Hub isn't bad. I did a write up in the Technical Section on doing a CV boot change so just follow the instructions although no need to take the hub-nut off, just pull the whole assembly out.

Ball-joints aren't bad. Don't bother wasting too much time taking the nut off, just cut it off. The new ball-joint will have one. We managed all but one ball-joint with the C-shaped press before it bent putting the last one in. Had to buy a second one to finish the job. Still cheaper than the Laser tool (£400 from Island-4x4) but annoying.

synchro said:

Just pushed the radius bushings out with the special tool.( LRT-60-004) Worked like a charm. Used just bellow 5 ton before they popped. Used about 4 ton installing.
I did not usy any grease, neither did i do any sanding/polishing of the inside. It was looking all shiny there, with no "nuppings"

superb tool, worked just as it should..

The inner metal liner in the old bushes was completly loose.. (the middle part) so the radius arm could sway pretty decently left-right movement.. like 2-3 cm play or more..

Now i just gotta mount the roll bar on, (with new links and d bushes) and the radius arm, then continue my way over to the ball joints...

Everythings ruuuuusty in that area...

I'm just gonna mentally prepare myself, but..
Is ball joints easier, or harder to do in anyones experience? I have c press/clamp.

Is it hard getting the hub off?
I'm watching videos 24/7 before doing my installs, goes so much easier.

and God damn how hard the rear front nut on the radius arm was... and having it in such a bad spot.. the shock is blocking the nut quite a bit with that large stud...

Also, im sad i guess, to inform you that i've ordered a model 3 (not coming before 2023 tho)

I run trou 5000€ just in diesel commuting work-home so the model 3 will save me some pain...

Click to expand...

You will notice a difference in the car with the radius bushes done it will not wander about

okay well i did the radius arm yesterday, took me a bout an hour to get both bolts aligned was hard holding a crowbar under there.. would've been simpler with a scissor lift or what theyre called Everythings torqued up, i also changed the D bushes on the rollbar, including the links. They did all seem to be in ok condition, but swapped them as they were going out anyhow..

I started to take off stuff now so i can begin with the ball joints. I had that 19mm 12 edge bolt at my brake carrier, and my 19mm spanner didnt fit it... so i kinda gave up and though i needed a 20mm, but however i just took a hammer and smacked the 19mm on as it was only rust/dirt on there.. so all ok

Now i just need to seperate the hub from the driveshaft assembly and i only have 1 nut left to remove, the top balljoint nut before smacking out the balljoints
So now:
-Seperate hub
-remove ball joints
-press in new ball joints
-assemble the sh*t i've pulled off..

Then i gotta drain my transmission fluid due to the plug leaking.. what a bugger.. I purchased some permatex supra blue, which should be OK with chemicals/fluids appart from gas and fine to use in -54C to +205C so that should be fine to use as drain plug "washer" i suppose..
so i got some fresh fluids

Also gotta find out where my engine coolant goes... (it leaks, according to the MOT) So yay not my head gasket. Hopefully i can just plug it with rtv

theen remove my highly illegal led beams from wish... also gotta change 2 bulbs, and my main beams are led.. so thats gonna be hard

My front brake pads are baaaaaad so gotta order some new pads, also one of the gliding pins is stuck on Not expensive stuff, but i don't have time to order from England, and wait due to MOT closing up , not that much extra work anyhow. Brake pads are easy, i've moved on from thoose easy stuff

Doesnt help that my left hand wrist hurts, and my right shoulder hurts either

Have you got the abs sensor out before you pull the hub? It'll catch on the drive shaft metal shroud otherwise.

Flossie said:

Have you got the abs sensor out before you pull the hub? It'll catch on the drive shaft metal shroud otherwise.

Click to expand...

Not yet, haven't started to smack the hub yet. Tried to pry it a little 2-3 times but didnt really budge, but i didn't really give it anything either.
I suppose i need to get the brakeshield of aswell, to take of the hub?

What type of socket is there on the brakeshield? i tried using 7mm, didn't work tooo good but i managed 1 by smacking it with a hammer...

The hub bolts are 9/16" i read ( i managed with 15mm).. I'm so confused, things go from MM to inches on different bolts..

I wish i had a tool cart with every spanner and socket i needed for the car

Can't remember the sizes of anything but I have a good selection of metric and AF and multipoint tools. Rust plays tricks with size, the important thing to do is if you think the tool is going to slip and damage the head, stop and try a different method. Rounded bolts can add days to a job. I replaced every bolt connected to ball joint removal with new.

synchro said:

okay well i did the radius arm yesterday, took me a bout an hour to get both bolts aligned was hard holding a crowbar under there.. would've been simpler with a scissor lift or what theyre called Everythings torqued up, i also changed the D bushes on the rollbar, including the links. They did all seem to be in ok condition, but swapped them as they were going out anyhow..

I started to take off stuff now so i can begin with the ball joints. I had that 19mm 12 edge bolt at my brake carrier, and my 19mm spanner didnt fit it... so i kinda gave up and though i needed a 20mm, but however i just took a hammer and smacked the 19mm on as it was only rust/dirt on there.. so all ok

Now i just need to seperate the hub from the driveshaft assembly and i only have 1 nut left to remove, the top balljoint nut before smacking out the balljoints
So now:
-Seperate hub
-remove ball joints
-press in new ball joints
-assemble the sh*t i've pulled off..

Then i gotta drain my transmission fluid due to the plug leaking.. what a bugger.. I purchased some permatex supra blue, which should be OK with chemicals/fluids appart from gas and fine to use in -54C to +205C so that should be fine to use as drain plug "washer" i suppose..
so i got some fresh fluids

Also gotta find out where my engine coolant goes... (it leaks, according to the MOT) So yay not my head gasket. Hopefully i can just plug it with rtv

theen remove my highly illegal led beams from wish... also gotta change 2 bulbs, and my main beams are led.. so thats gonna be hard

My front brake pads are baaaaaad so gotta order some new pads, also one of the gliding pins is stuck on Not expensive stuff, but i don't have time to order from England, and wait due to MOT closing up , not that much extra work anyhow. Brake pads are easy, i've moved on from thoose easy stuff

Doesnt help that my left hand wrist hurts, and my right shoulder hurts either

Click to expand...

Coolant leak might be heater matrix or o-rings?

Hub is just a matter of Plusgas, back the bolts off and hammer until it moves.

I did the o-rings on the matrix for almost a year ago. Its still dry there. Before i did the o rings carpet was wet and the floor all moist.
Im going out in the garage now to tackle the hub

I am really struggling to get the Hub out
I managed to get the brake shield off by smacking a 7mm socket on the bolts.
The abs sensor was STUCK, and i mean STUCK, it ended up that the cap flied away, while the rest of the sensor is inside the bore.
Smacked the hub for 2 hours, no progress. Used flatscrews, chissels, smacked them with a hammer in that sweet middle spot between the hub and the swivel hub, no budge.

I hate it, i am so eager to swap the balljoints, and looking forward to do it, but that hub just decides to say no
If the ABS even wouldn't get out, hoooow am i suppose to get the whole hub out...
i've blasted everything with the juices

I've heard putting the hub bolts half way in, and then smacking them with a hammer should eventually pop it out, but is this true?
and is it OK? the bolts seem to be longer than just the threads in the hub, is there threads in the sviwel hub aswell?
Gotta say, all that hammering is exhausting me

synchro said:

I am really struggling to get the Hub out
I managed to get the brake shield off by smacking a 7mm socket on the bolts.
The abs sensor was STUCK, and i mean STUCK, it ended up that the cap flied away, while the rest of the sensor is inside the bore.
Smacked the hub for 2 hours, no progress. Used flatscrews, chissels, smacked them with a hammer in that sweet middle spot between the hub and the swivel hub, no budge.

I hate it, i am so eager to swap the balljoints, and looking forward to do it, but that hub just decides to say no
If the ABS even wouldn't get out, hoooow am i suppose to get the whole hub out...
i've blasted everything with the juices

I've heard putting the hub bolts half way in, and then smacking them with a hammer should eventually pop it out, but is this true?
and is it OK? the bolts seem to be longer than just the threads in the hub, is there threads in the sviwel hub aswell?
Gotta say, all that hammering is exhausting me

Click to expand...

I grind a small groove in opposing bolt bosses where the hub and carrier meet, a thin cold chisel can then be inserted in the groove, a few whacks with the club hammer top and bottom had them out in no time.

synchro said:

I am really struggling to get the Hub out
I managed to get the brake shield off by smacking a 7mm socket on the bolts.
The abs sensor was STUCK, and i mean STUCK, it ended up that the cap flied away, while the rest of the sensor is inside the bore.
Smacked the hub for 2 hours, no progress. Used flatscrews, chissels, smacked them with a hammer in that sweet middle spot between the hub and the swivel hub, no budge.

I hate it, i am so eager to swap the balljoints, and looking forward to do it, but that hub just decides to say no
If the ABS even wouldn't get out, hoooow am i suppose to get the whole hub out...
i've blasted everything with the juices

I've heard putting the hub bolts half way in, and then smacking them with a hammer should eventually pop it out, but is this true?
and is it OK? the bolts seem to be longer than just the threads in the hub, is there threads in the sviwel hub aswell?
Gotta say, all that hammering is exhausting me

Click to expand...

There's 4 bolts round the back. You just back them out about a mm or two and then hammer each in turn. Where the hub fits in keep rubbing away with a wirebrush and score the screwdriver round where the join line is and keep squirting with releasing fluid. You are using a lump hammer? It will go but sometimes it can be crazy rusted in place. Cup of tea while it soaks in the Plusgas helps. Cup of tea always helps.

I had to use a 3 legged puller on mine BECAUSE the abs sensor was stuck real solid, IMHO you won't get the hub off by hammering stuff IF the abs sensor is still in. The steel shroud around the drive shaft has got to tear itself away from the sensor, you'll struggle to tear that metal by hammering.
Two choices that I can see, drill the sensor out, that's not easy, or use a puller and damage the shroud.
My shrouds could be rescued and a slot cut in them afterwards will enable shaft removal without removing the abs sensor.
I butchered the remains of the abs sensor out with the hub in a vice on my work bench and it was not easy, trying to get mine out in situ would have been next to impossible.

Flossie said:

I had to use a 3 legged puller on mine BECAUSE the abs sensor was stuck real solid, IMHO you won't get the hub off by hammering stuff IF the abs sensor is still in. The steel shroud around the drive shaft has got to tear itself away from the sensor, you'll struggle to tear that metal by hammering.
Two choices that I can see, drill the sensor out, that's not easy, or use a puller and damage the shroud.
My shrouds could be rescued and a slot cut in them afterwards will enable shaft removal without removing the abs sensor.
I butchered the remains of the abs sensor out with the hub in a vice on my work bench and it was not easy, trying to get mine out in situ would have been next to impossible.

Click to expand...

Aye, the ABS sensors are a real barsteward

The abs sensor is not a problem anymore, i sheared it of with a chisel inbetween the axle and swivel. And also got some bits out, but i’ll haf to put the swivel in a vice as @Flossie did so he understands my pain atleast

Theres now a tiny, tiny gap at the upper side of the hub, going \ from center, and i am able to see hope.

gosh, and rave says «pull the hub out, no more explanation» and the thing is stuck on…

i obviously live in Norway as previously stated, so salt in wintertime, is not just 1 salt grain…. At this point i just hope the ball joint procedure goes smoothly as everything else hasnt atleast i get some physical activity Gonna give the hub one more hour of smacking now, atleast abs is a goner so maybe it moves now if not, leave it soaking in penetrating fluid one more day

cheers for all responses, i need to get my stress out

This is next on my to do list Ive seen all these horror stories yet everyone I’ve met has said how easily it went? Hoping mine is so bad it’s half jiggled itself out before I start
Watching in anticipation

Just used another hour session. Used a blow torch, heated around the whole swivel joint where the "taper" is, it is not moving i've also taken the bolts in, back them 4mm out ish and smack em, no movement. I can see the "split" a few places, but they do not seem to grow... ouch............. i guess my only option would be to undo the drive nut and use a puller on this ****??? my body is mentally destroyed already thinking about the force needed to undo that nut even amplying that much force...
i feel like i could've fixed the whole front at the time ive spent trying to undo the hub...

i've soaked the area a dozen times with the rust juices, also cold-heat-smack-cold-heat-smack it a few times..

Ive heard of people taking the brake disc on, wheel nuts on, and smack the back of the disc.. but that will ruin the disc 100% Disc is not new, but its not in need of replacement either, but i might just try this. Pads on both sides front is atleast in need for change, also the sliding pins need overhaul/renewal..
I think i will order discs, pads and sliding pins and try to smack the old disc.

But feel free to scream out what i should try, because i've probably used the hammer and chissel way above 100 times on the hub already.

Hub nut should be off anyway otherwise you are adding, slightly, to the effort needed to move the hub( I think from memory). I used a crow bar on the studs, locked against the floor to lock the hub whilst I wrestled with the tight hub nut.
That worked well.
I'd get a puller at this point been where you are now and the puller was a god send. Somebody on a Facebook page said I would damage the diff bearing which seems possible but unlikely imo.