P gasket or not P gasket, that is the question

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bigrichsri

bigrichsri

Active Member
Posts
254
Location
Derby
Hi, as I have previously posted, head gasket blew on my 300tdi a few months back. Cylinders 2 and 3 blew across to the waterway causing the water system to become heavily pressurised. This caused a water leak at the front end. This didn't bother me at first as I just kept topping the water up, but now it uses more water than diesel.... so it's time to fix it. What I need to know is, from these photos, is it the 'p' gasket that has gone and if so, roughly how long to fix it? I consider myself as a competent mechanic.

DSC_0070.jpg


DSC_0071.jpg


Thanks
 
I'd be fairly sure that is a p-gasket from where the trail of rust is.

It took me about 2 hours to do, outside in the rain. One tip I'd give is to make sure you have a strap wrench to hold the power steering pump pulley still while you undo the bolts - the belt tension isnt enough to stop it slipping.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f49/p-gasket-renewal-how-91258.html

PS Get a new water pump gasket, a proper aluminium LR p-gasket and smear the lot with a thin layer of RTV sealant before doing up.

The three bolts at the lower corner of the water pump that go through the housing into the block might be seized and very difficult to undo - on the one I did it was very easy indeed!

Cheers,

David
 
Thanks for the advise and the link David, I bought a new ali P gasket on my last trip to paddocks as I'd heard that they regularly fail, but haven't got a clue where I put it so, it's another trip in the morning to get another 1 or 3!

Thanks again
 
David Pye said:
I'd be fairly sure that is a p-gasket from where the trail of rust is.

It took me about 2 hours to do, outside in the rain. One tip I'd give is to make sure you have a strap wrench to hold the power steering pump pulley still while you undo the bolts - the belt tension isnt enough to stop it slipping.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f49/p-gasket-renewal-how-91258.html

PS Get a new water pump gasket, a proper aluminium LR p-gasket and smear the lot with a thin layer of RTV sealant before doing up.

The three bolts at the lower corner of the water pump that go through the housing into the block might be seized and very difficult to undo - on the one I did it was very easy indeed!

Cheers,

David
Click to expand...


Couldn't agree more, changed my water pump today and guess which bolts i had a problem with!!! Had to cut the heads off two of them with a grinder and have now replaced them with 13mm headed bolts from a local agriculture specialist so hopefully won't ever be a problem again.
 
I think I've been running it too long topping up the water every couple of days. Got back from buying to new P gasket and water pump gasket today, opened the bonnet to check the water level. Top rad hose was highly pressurised, took the cap off the header tank to be faced with more bubbles than in a bottle of champagne..... Let it cool down, bled and topped up the system, fired it up and top hose was rock hard within 5 seconds! My conclusion, head gasket has gone again or head is cracked!:mad::mad:

Either way another head is required as I had 15 thou skimmed off last time and it won't stand another skim. Also a new set of head bolts.

All that for a 99p gasket.... BUGGER!:doh:
 
Last edited:
As previously stated, replaced the head gasket, cylinder head and P gasket recently. I used a new ali P gasket from paddocks smeared with jointing compound (also from paddocks) all seemed to be going well. Checked the water every couple of days for 2 weeks with no water loss. All temps normal, checked yesterday and header tank was almost empty. Leaking P gasket again. Only very slightly, but enough to use 1L of water in 2 weeks. Surely the ali one hasn't failed. My guess is that it's leaking between the gasket and the block, due to it leaking rapidly before and erroding the block perhaps?... how do I stop this?

Cheers
 
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