Oil Extraction Pump - worth it or not ???

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markyzs180

markyzs180

Active Member
Posts
844
Location
Solihull, West Mids
looking at getting one of the silverline oil extraction pumps but was wondering if anyone on here has got/used one on their td4??

as the mileage is creeping up i'm planning on doing more frequent oil changes and was thinking of getting one of these to save getting the bellypan off every time i do one....
 
markyzs180 said:
looking at getting one of the silverline oil extraction pumps but was wondering if anyone on here has got/used one on their td4??
Click to expand...
markyzs180 said:
Bought an Am-Tech Manual Oil/Fluid Extractor on ebay a month ago for £47.99. It will hold 7 litres so ok for TD4. Used it once and it worked perfectly. Hard to believe how easy it is. With the easy change TD4 fiter you do the whole job standing up, don't need overalls just a pair of gloves.
I preferred it to the Silverline.
Click to expand...
 
I am afraid am can't coment on the extraction pump as I have never used one but I do have something to add on the removal & refitting of the belly pan.

I have always wondered why people make such a big thing of removing the belly pan as I have never found it an issue, I remove it twice a year for oil changes plus recently I have twice removed it to allow me to tackle other jobs (oil change wasn't due so I will be taking it off again in a few weeks time!!!!).
Last week I took it off to enable me to replace the aux & air-con belts and for the first time ever I DIDN'T have the vehicle up on ramps (I had to remove the OS wheel so this wasn't possible) and the pan was a very different animal than when the vehicle is raised up. When you lie on your back and can get under it there is no problem whatsoever and it is a nice easy job but when there is limited space under the vehicle and you are reaching under to get to the fixings I can see it is a bit more of a pain.
That said, I recomend the use of ramps as apart from ease of use it allows you to drain all the oil, with the front of the vehicle raised I always drain out the full amount whereas I am sure that when level some sits around (this has been covered at length before).

Anyway........... :focus:
 
or you could just do the mod to the belly pan so you can undo the sump plug and drain the oil without removing it...

(involves cutting a hole in it at the right place)
 
I used airline operated drainer and have found it good if oil is hot.
 
Optimus Prime said:
or you could just do the mod to the belly pan so you can undo the sump plug and drain the oil without removing it...
(involves cutting a hole in it at the right place)
Click to expand...

I actually prefer to remove the pan and take a good look at the underside. Ok I have had to do it more often than normal this year due to my maintenance routine being out of kelter but normally removing it just twice a year is a good chance to take a good look at everything.
 
I've got a stronger heavier guard on mine. Fixing ma hippo wouldn't be any fun wivout it falling on me when taking it orf, or stuggling to put it back by inspection lamp at 10:30pm on a winters night.
 
Litch said:
I am afraid am can't coment on the extraction pump as I have never used one but I do have something to add on the removal & refitting of the belly pan.

I have always wondered why people make such a big thing of removing the belly pan as I have never found it an issue, I remove it twice a year for oil changes plus recently I have twice removed it to allow me to tackle other jobs (oil change wasn't due so I will be taking it off again in a few weeks time!!!!).
Last week I took it off to enable me to replace the aux & air-con belts and for the first time ever I DIDN'T have the vehicle up on ramps (I had to remove the OS wheel so this wasn't possible) and the pan was a very different animal than when the vehicle is raised up. When you lie on your back and can get under it there is no problem whatsoever and it is a nice easy job but when there is limited space under the vehicle and you are reaching under to get to the fixings I can see it is a bit more of a pain.
That said, I recomend the use of ramps as apart from ease of use it allows you to drain all the oil, with the front of the vehicle raised I always drain out the full amount whereas I am sure that when level some sits around (this has been covered at length before).

Anyway........... :focus:
Click to expand...


People make a big deal when they find out that the bolts holding it on are seized solid probably cause previous garages used oil extraction pumps to do the oil service.
On the subject of extraction pumps, yes they will be easier but I'm old fashioned & feel a better job will be done by doing it the proper way & allowing plenty of time for the old oil to drain out properly through the sump plug.
 
"People make a big deal when they find out that the bolts holding it on are seized solid probably cause previous garages used oil extraction pumps to do the oil service."

True but they will only be siezed the first time as then you will apply a little copperslip to the threads enabling you to run them in with your fingers and just nip them with a spanner. :)
I think that is one of the reasons I don't find it a problem, everything comes apart easily but you are correct, they were tight the first time and undid with a crack (just like the drain-plugs!).
 
I have used oil extraction pumps, but i always get a less than perfect feeling from doing it...


When you use an extraction pump, you dont get all the oil out generally. You also dont tend to pick up the real crap from the bottom of the sump. I think if your going to use one, because you service your vehicle every 3,000 miles or so, then i'd recommend atleast once a year actually draining it properly.

Another thought is that new cars, when using electronic dipsticks (yes, because a metal stick with a bit of plastic on the end just is just unreliable and would never catch on), have dipstick tubes designed to allow you to draw out all the oil. Whereas the convenience of doing so across all Marques is generally coincidental, as they were never designed for such things.

Also getting oil all over you, your clothes, your drive and usually your house is just funzies!
 
Thanks for all the replies, I'm only planning on using it for the extra oil changes and would still do a full drain via the sump plug every year, was just wondering if they were any good lol

think i'll go with a 4 litre silverline one for 18 quid and let you all know how i get on with it :)
 
When you use it measure the amount of oil you remove and then check this against what you remove draining it via the drain-plug.
Like I said earlier, some people claim never to get more than about 5.5L out of their TD4's yet my wife's takes the full quota (6.8L isn't it?) so unless their sumps are full of expanding foam they aren't getting it all out! I confirmed this doing an EXACT measurement of the amount of oil drained out and taken to refill it.
 
6.8ltr? Thats a dry-fill isnt it?


I think a typical fill is around 6.2 litres ; drained hot, left overnight.

Its what i would expect anyway :)
 
Vissie said:
6.8ltr? Thats a dry-fill isnt it?
I think a typical fill is around 6.2 litres ; drained hot, left overnight.
Its what i would expect anyway :)
Click to expand...

Never heard of the 6.2L amount and I know we are now going off-topic but below is my post from when I did it.
The purpose of this little experiment, to show that some people might be leaving a quantity of old oil in the sump to be mixed in with the new stuff and if you have gone to the trouble of an oil & filter change why would you want to do that?
Anyway, the post:-
This one comes up all the time with capacities varying from the official 6.8L right down to 5L. I have always maintained that the engine should take over 6L and that if you aren't using that much then you can't be draining all the old oil out. I gave my wife's TD4 its 6-monthly oil & filter change today (using Castrol Edge as usual) and this is what I found.

Just to clarify the situation this includes the oil-filter. When checking the dipstick level the vehicle was perfectly level and the dipstick pushed fully home. All measurements were made using a 1L jug with lines at every 50mL so there is no guessing, 'about' or 'near enough' in it. Both the old oil and the new oil were accurately measured. After a 'certain' amount of oil was put in the engine it was run and then allowed to stand for a few minutes, this was repeated and small (measured) amounts added until the dipstick level was spot on. The level was also spot on before the old oil was drained out. Engine was warm as it had been for a run earlier this morning plus it is a very warm day. For draining the vehicle was run up on ramps so it was sitting nose up and the maximum amount of oil could be drained out of the sump. It was left to drain for nearly 2-hours while I mowed the lawns (well, you have to keep busy don't you?).

The amounts? 6.8L drained out and 6.8L to re-fill it.
smile.gif



What did I notice that might explain the different amounts people quote?
confused.gif

Firstly the oil was warm, I drain it with the nose up and it is left it to drain for a long time. Does everyone allow for ALL the old oil to be drained? Even though it had been draining for over 30-mins and there was barely a drip out of the sump-plug (well, the Difflock Drainplug hose actually), the moment I released the oil-filter housing there was a gush of oil (I wish I had measured it). If people are re-fitting the sump-plug before changing the filter this will make a difference.

I would love someone else to do an equally accurate oil-change and publish their results.
wink.gif



​
 
I always drain on level surface, but im 'pretty' (mildly) sure 6.8ltrs is the specified dry fill amount. So if your changing 6.8 thats got to be a dam good drain of the oil :)

Oil filter should always be released prior to draining the oil, just due to the way it works it will hold a conciderable amount of oil in the system if its on tight.

:D This is so ot :p
 
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