oil cooler pipe/ oil cooler question

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dibbles

Active Member
Posts
114
i need to change the oil cooler pipe on a 1998 p38 4lt,the pipe next to the oil filter to the n/s of the cooler.
i've read that the aluminium threads on the cooler are usually knackered when the pipe is undone.
how likely is this to happen?
is there any tips on getting the pipe off without damaging it?
or should i just order the oil cooler aswell?
thanks
 
heres an idea to stop damage to the oil cooler and my wallet.
the bottom of the pipe next to the oil filter is the bit that needs changing as it leaks.
as the pipe is metal then rubber,then metal.(from bottom to top), could i cut the top metal pipe and connect the new cooler pipe (which is also cut) together with a piece of rubber pipe with jubilee clips or plumbing type connection,so the oil cooler doesn't get damaged.
i hope you can understand what i mean.
the top metal pipe is 12.5mm wide
i want to throw this idea out there and see what people think
cheers
 
Last edited:
i know what your getting at dibbles, i think people have done this before with the gearbox cooler pipes, but from my memory the gearbox cooler doesnt have as much pressure as the oil cooler, im prob wrong but im sure someone will be along to help out.
 
Yes you can cut the steel pipe, it's actually 1/2" O.D., and get compression fittings from a pneumatics supplier...they are good for at least 150p.s.i. and the engine oil pressure is going to be around 65 p.s.i. max.
You can get a hose* made up at Pirtek with swaged end fittings to match up with the compression fittings which will have a 1/2"BSP parallel external thread. I have done this mod to my P38 and it has been on for a few years without any problems.
*If you go to Pirtek or any other hose supplier, tell them it is for carrying engine oil and they will match the hose to take into account the increased temperature etc.
 
i decided to buy an oil cooler from a company called famous four,who said i can return it for a refund if i don't use it.
so that nut has a value of £140 on it!
i've sprayed it with wd40 and will do it daily until i change the part (sunday).
do i drain the oil.swap the pipe (and cooler if necessary).a new filter, then fill with oil.
or do i have to prime the cooler or anything?
thanks
 
Trying to lubricate the thred will not do a thing in my opinion.

I replaced my oil cooler pipes earlier this year.

One was not as tight as the other and it came off a dream with no problems. The other was welded to the thread and ruined them.

I went to pirtek and got a new alloy fitting the same thread as on the coil cooler.

I then went to a alloy welder who cut the old one off and welded the new one on. The new fitting did require some minor machining where the rubber o-ring on the pipe fits in.

Cost me £30 for the new fitting and for the welding/machining to be done.
 
i did it this job morning. i tried to undo the o/s cooler pipe connection,but it didn't budge.so i tried to undo the n/s. still no luck.(it started to bend the mounts)

so as i had ordered both pipes and an oil cooler just in case,i decided to change the whole lot.

very easy to fit, and torqued everything to 30nm.

new filter & oil.

can't run it yet though. waiting for the becm to come back.
 
Hi Bill, No reason why not. The steel pipe (Ends) of the hose is going to be either a nominal metric or imperial size and compression fittings are available for either. The oil pressure generated in the diesel engine is going to be nowhere near the maximum rating of the fittings.
I know someone with a DSE who has had a very slight "Weep" on the swage of one of his cooler hoses close to the oil filter for years and just wipes the damp patch every week.
 
Irishrover said:
Hi Bill, No reason why not. The steel pipe (Ends) of the hose is going to be either a nominal metric or imperial size and compression fittings are available for either. The oil pressure generated in the diesel engine is going to be nowhere near the maximum rating of the fittings.
I know someone with a DSE who has had a very slight "Weep" on the swage of one of his cooler hoses close to the oil filter for years and just wipes the damp patch every week.
Click to expand...

Thanks John, I will try cleaning up the leak first then give some regular attention to see how that goes. If that doesn't work I will go the way of compression fittings.
 
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