Oil change???????

Been told there aint no drain plug in the auto box for changing oil on my V6, how do i drain it? also is there a drain plug on the IRD unit?

Thanks.

if ya dont know exactly wot yu are doing - dont attempt it. You can screw the whole box if you remove the wrong fitting. Download the Rave manwell and read up thoroughly.

You can download the RAVE DISK here for instructions on how to fix your car.

Mad hat's right. If the oil level in the auto box is incorrect, you'll stuff it. Torque convert cavitates if oil is low. Oil high and you risk blowing the oil seals. Replacement fitted starts from approx £1400. Be careful!

As the other guys say, be very carefull as apparently unscrewing the wrong bolt loses you reverse gear & it isn't easy to tell them apart unless you have the manual to hand. There's also a procedure & special oil, I did let my Garage do mine mainly because the level is so critical & I couldn't get the car properly level & get good access. My Garage charged me less than £50 & it was delayed for a day as they had to go to Landrover for the oil - their usual supplier reckoned he could supply, then realised he couldn't etc.

ps, it's worth doing as my car was around 58,000 miles & there was a slight whine from the gearbox if you accelerated hardish when cold. After the change, the noise was gone & all is good. I've heard of some folk having all sort of weird issues like reluctant gear changes etc. which are sorted by a fluid change. I will get mine changed again in two years or 24,000 miles rather than the stated 60,000 miles.

Freelander auto gearbox oil is LRN402. LR part no STC50531. Comes in 1L bottles costing £9.95 each. It's red and smells nice.

Don't use the dextron II stuff. It's black and used in the US due to our red stuff contianing a chamical the US don't like. US car have problem with dextron II.

there is a thread on here with a link to ashcroft transmissions, who have a really helpful website, and it shows pictures, with arrows saying "DO NOT UNDO THIS" apparently the one to undo is a 5mm allen screw, whilst the one which f*cks your gearbox is a 19mm torx bolt.

(just for reference, get it wrong and the brake band drops of inside the box stopping you from getting reverse. No way back but to get box out)

obviously all information is for guidance only and you should verify to your own satisfaction that you are indeed undoing the right thing.

Does anyone have a contact in a garage who could confirm where the level nut actually is? Perhaps we could arrange a pic when it's confirmed. Recently went to my main dealer for some parts. Lad there on service who knows me wouldn't let me in to the big secrete.

Hippo said:

Does anyone have a contact in a garage who could confirm where the level nut actually is? Perhaps we could arrange a pic when it's confirmed. Recently went to my main dealer for some parts. Lad there on service who knows me wouldn't let me in to the big secrete.

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Haven't got my disc with me just now but i'm certain this is all on the Rave cd....

FFS . . . . . .Its just an auto gear box , yes check you understand were to drain , and were to fill up, drive it for ten miles [gets the oil hot] drain it [come's out all durty] put the exact amount of correct lr's liquid gold innit, job done [it int rocket science]. . . . . .I'm orft ta Pub :beer2: :beer2: :beer2: :beer2: :beer2: :beer2: Hic!!!!!!!! PARP!!!!!!!!!Who did that ?

ming said:

FFS . . . . . .Its just an auto gear box , yes check you understand were to drain , and were to fill up, drive it for ten miles [gets the oil hot] drain it [come's out all durty] put the exact amount of correct lr's liquid gold innit, job done [it int rocket science]. . . . . .I'm orft ta Pub :beer2: :beer2: :beer2: :beer2: :beer2: :beer2: Hic!!!!!!!! PARP!!!!!!!!!Who did that ?

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Apparently, quite a bit of old oil lingers around the torque converter & oil cooler etc. I think the total system takes around 6 litres, but you can only drain around 4 at most.

chromiumuk said:

Apparently, quite a bit of old oil lingers around the torque converter & oil cooler etc. I think the total system takes around 6 litres, but you can only drain around 4 at most.

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Hmm . . . .when i drained mine and measured it, it wasn't far off the mark, anyhow's stoopid building a box without a level plug ,its the same wiff the rear diff

chromiumuk said:

Apparently, quite a bit of old oil lingers around the torque converter & oil cooler etc. I think the total system takes around 6 litres, but you can only drain around 4 at most.

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We had same thread last week and week before and week before and week before....Can someone find one and make it sticky

What ming was saying is to replace with exact amout of fluid....Same as what you have removed not the 6ltrs it would take from new..(normally around 4-41/2 ltrs)..hence measurin what you remove.

If your box was/is running fine with no leaks this is the correct only way to do it withut specialist pooters etc....

If your box is leaking or already has problems then this method no good

All covered on rave and fairly simple.

surely you just top it up till it trickles out of filler hole ?

run it, go through all gears, recheck.

job done.

(or have i missed something ?)

Optimus Prime said:

surely you just top it up till it trickles out of filler hole ?

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Optimus Prime said:

run it, go through all gears, recheck.

job done.

(or have i missed something ?)

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If you mean the filler hole on the top, then no. Fill it up to there and it’s got too much oil in it. The high oil pressures inside added with too much oil will blow the oil seals.
Sadly I increased my oil leaks from 1 to 3 by doing this. Didn’t top it to the top, but did fill it above the correct level. That’ll teach me. The is a min and max level, but it’s said to be precise. More precise than the engine oil min/max difference on the dip stick

I’ve been all round my current auto, the one previous that broke, and 2 others both loose and complete, on the floor. Didn’t see any hex filler nut? Would love to now where the level plug is?

Hippo said:

If you mean the filler hole on the top, then no. Fill it up to there and it’s got too much oil in it. The high oil pressures inside added with too much oil will blow the oil seals.
Sadly I increased my oil leaks from 1 to 3 by doing this. Didn’t top it to the top, but did fill it above the correct level. That’ll teach me. The is a min and max level, but it’s said to be precise. More precise than the engine oil min/max difference on the dip stick

I’ve been all round my current auto, the one previous that broke, and 2 others both loose and complete, on the floor. Didn’t see any hex filler nut? Would love to now where the level plug is?

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Most probably I'm totally wrong and is this just a waste of time but could it be the level plug is at the bottom of the box ? That inside the box there is a kind of separationwall on one side the oil and on the other side the levelplug. When not enough oil in it there won't come out any, if too much the oil will spill out over the separation ??? Is it possible I've read that some place along the description of the autobox ???

Solenoid box on the front of the auto is the bit you've read that in the rave disk me thinks. If I understand correct, the solenoid box also contains oil. Also the gearbox is said to by hydraulic drive? Hence high oil means blowing the seals, like I did. Other hydraulic auto I’ve looked at in cars run at 120psi.

When asking an AA man he said he didn’t know how to check the level.

Re the rest: What ever way a main dealer checks it, they have a known method that works. They don't take off any parts which needs sealer when put back. They don't take off the front solenoid tin cover either. That’s sealed too. Charge is one hour labour. They prefer to have the car over night and forum their secrete magic in the morning, when cold, so they can monitor the temp when it warms up.

I have a thermometer which goes up to 280 degrees and have measured the temp of my auto. Running it for tens minutes certainly puts it well over the required temp for oil level checking. Even on tick over only. Either 35 or 37 degrees. Can’t remember which. The auto also receive heat from the engine as it connected.

I know it’s only a ****** auto and not rocket science, but I don’t want to have to pay for a replacement again. Will leave mine to the “experts”

Optimus Prime said:

there is a thread on here with a link to ashcroft transmissions, who have a really helpful website, and it shows pictures, with arrows saying "DO NOT UNDO THIS" apparently the one to undo is a 5mm allen screw, whilst the one which f*cks your gearbox is a 19mm torx bolt.

(just for reference, get it wrong and the brake band drops of inside the box stopping you from getting reverse. No way back but to get box out)

obviously all information is for guidance only and you should verify to your own satisfaction that you are indeed undoing the right thing.

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Got some pics from Ashcroft showing drain, level (5mm allen screw) and fill. Passing onto the local autocentre.

its on here - the Land Rover service sheet - Q's and A's section.

Think it's something like below ?

(Looking at the picture I thought this 5mm Allen plug was on the underside, especially as down below they refer to the fact that different plugs are on the UNDERSIDE of the box ?)