Oil change AND coolant pressure resolved

Dear All,

Finally made the move to rural Staffordshire on retiring (originally living in Manchester). Seems to be affecting my brain as I cannot find the oil change interval for my TD5 (I think it is 6kmiles) in the works manual. Also I noticed that there is a rotor to be changed in a centrifugal filter. I have paid for my oil changes in the past but nobody has mentioned the need to replace the rotor? What is the mileage interval for this part please?
Just for completeness: last year I was banging on about pressure in my cooling system, rigid top hose etc. The wise men immediately diagnosed head gasket failure (after all, what else could it be) but the local menders put me off doing the job and I ran like this for almost nine months. Finally got fed up and insisted to my local fixer that they do the head gasket despite their reluctance and warning of large sums of money. They did the job and fixed it! Cost about £850
Everything is fine now except that it just seems a little less 'zippy' and I know that they put on a 'fat' replacement gasket. Would this lower the compression sufficiently to be noticeable?

Hoping I can do more DIY now.

Happy New Year,

Pat

i change them at same time as oil and filter it takes out the really small stuff ,becareful as the 2 bolts are captive in the top and top must be completely seated before tightening bolts and just nip them up there no pressure on them and threds srip very easily, how much did they know about td5s ,why didnt they replace same gasket as removed ,did they set injectors

L/R Rave cd states 12,000mls for engine oil and centrifuge filter and 36,000 for full flow filter. I change mine at 10,000 miles using Morris Lubricants throughout with good results.

Dear James,

Thanks. OK I will change the centrifugal filter and I think 6k is about right. As for the garage-men who did the head, I think they had some idea of what was required but they are not specialists; so I don't know if the injectors were set (how is this done?). I think the thicker gasket may be used to take account of skimming the head, although, again, don't know for sure; except that they are available so must be used in some cases. I remember the boss there saying that there was a bit of damage to the block surface at the leak point and they had used a special sealant when fitting the gasket. As I said it works, the mpg is about the same (31-32), but seems a little less snappy.

Pat

Pat Bryant said:

Dear James,

Thanks. OK I will change the centrifugal filter and I think 6k is about right. As for the garage-men who did the head, I think they had some idea of what was required but they are not specialists; so I don't know if the injectors were set (how is this done?). I think the thicker gasket may be used to take account of skimming the head, although, again, don't know for sure; except that they are available so must be used in some cases. I remember the boss there saying that there was a bit of damage to the block surface at the leak point and they had used a special sealant when fitting the gasket. As I said it works, the mpg is about the same (31-32), but seems a little less snappy.

Pat

Click to expand...

makes sense then with the gasket ,though i doubt you notice its effect ,timing maybe slightly retarded than was could be many things though ,im also a big believer in frequent oil changes ,which comes from reconditioning many ,you can tell an engine thats been serviced regularly when you strip them ,look through this link its for injector seals but covers adjustment at towards the end
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...AF_DcdO9gpZox7vpaltAZKg&bvm=bv.60444564,d.ZGU

+1 on the easy-stripping threads on the centrifugal filter cover! Fortunately I got away with a longer bolt; the threaded holes in the housing are deeper that the stock bolts. In fact, taken to extremes you could run a bolt all the way through and use a nut on the bottom, but that would be rather fiddly. My mechanically knowledgeable friend who owns a lathe machined a neck near the head of the bolt so that it doesn't tighten on the cover itself, but only on the threads of the housing.