Oh no not another air suspension issue!

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Wilber070877

Wilber070877

New Member
Posts
6
Location
South wales
Good morning fellow landrover owners.
I'm fairly new to this so please bear with me. I have myself a great Discovery4 on a 2010 plate and am having difficulty with the suspension. Gasp I hear you say! Lol. It had a interm fault with the suspension light coming on occasionally so after speaking to a mechanic friend he suggested it may be just the battery not having enough guts on crank over. I have recently bought and fitted a new one. All is good there. However with covid19 its not been driven much and now the compressor pumps the rear of the car up ok ish however the front doesnt rise at all unless you drive it and then it still comes up very slowly and not by much. Ive had the compressor out of it and rebuilt the air side and checked the operation of the piston side. All seems OK. However the dissident granuals were very powdery. Have now been renewed with the pad filters etc! This has had no affect so I've had the rear air valves and centre air valves out, cleaned and checked and refitted. Again no different. I have noticed as the compressor is running it slows down near max pressure, starts to cut in and out and is running quite hot. The dash then shows raising will commence when system has cooled! Will it be worth me now taking the front air valves out from behind the offside inner arch and cleaning that out, or would you suggest a new compressor?? Its the original one still fitted! Before all this I done the raise up and remove fuse test to check for leeks left for a few days and all was OK no droppage!
Many thanks in advance.
 
Wilber070877 said:
Good morning fellow landrover owners.
I'm fairly new to this so please bear with me. I have myself a great Discovery4 on a 2010 plate and am having difficulty with the suspension. Gasp I hear you say! Lol. It had a interm fault with the suspension light coming on occasionally so after speaking to a mechanic friend he suggested it may be just the battery not having enough guts on crank over. I have recently bought and fitted a new one. All is good there. However with covid19 its not been driven much and now the compressor pumps the rear of the car up ok ish however the front doesnt rise at all unless you drive it and then it still comes up very slowly and not by much. Ive had the compressor out of it and rebuilt the air side and checked the operation of the piston side. All seems OK. However the dissident granuals were very powdery. Have now been renewed with the pad filters etc! This has had no affect so I've had the rear air valves and centre air valves out, cleaned and checked and refitted. Again no different. I have noticed as the compressor is running it slows down near max pressure, starts to cut in and out and is running quite hot. The dash then shows raising will commence when system has cooled! Will it be worth me now taking the front air valves out from behind the offside inner arch and cleaning that out, or would you suggest a new compressor?? Its the original one still fitted! Before all this I done the raise up and remove fuse test to check for leeks left for a few days and all was OK no droppage!
Many thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

As you have done the other two valves, it makes sense to do the last one.
You can get o ring kits off of ebay to rebuild the valves, kit is under 20 quid, and does all three valves.

The compressors do run hot

Have you a diagnostic tool?
Gap IID is the kiddy, bloody dear though, but in the land rover scheme of things its a drop in the ocean!
With the IID you can test all the valves and pretty much everything else.
 
lynall said:
As you have done the other two valves, it makes sense to do the last one.
You can get o ring kits off of ebay to rebuild the valves, kit is under 20 quid, and does all three valves.

The compressors do run hot

Have you a diagnostic tool?
Gap IID is the kiddy, bloody dear though, but in the land rover scheme of things its a drop in the ocean!
With the IID you can test all the valves and pretty much everything else.
Click to expand...
Hi. No I don't have a diagnostic device. I will give the front valve a go and see how I get on from there.
Thanks for your reply!
 
Wilber070877 said:
The dash then shows raising will commence when system has cooled!
Click to expand...

Had exactly the same message.Rebuilt the compressor and drier and all good now.
As you say you have rebuilt the compressor, but obviously still not getting enough air to fill tank,bags before overheating have you checked the supply lines from compressor to tank for leaks, also apparently the drier end caps can crack between the fittings. I need to look at diagram again but compressor and drier can only be checked when compressor is running, once it stops it exhaust the pressure on that side of the system.
If your desiccant was all white and powdery it may be worth doing the other set of valves but, it just sounds like the compressor is not producing enough or you are losing it somewhere on that side of the air circuit. As you say the strut side is ok.
@gstuart chased white powder for a while I think.
If you do go for a new compressor ensure you get the same 1, if you get the different 1 available it needs software adjustment.
As said ^^^ GapIID not cheap but will soon earn its cost back.

J
 
marjon said:
Had exactly the same message.Rebuilt the compressor and drier and all good now.
As you say you have rebuilt the compressor, but obviously still not getting enough air to fill tank,bags before overheating have you checked the supply lines from compressor to tank for leaks, also apparently the drier end caps can crack between the fittings. I need to look at diagram again but compressor and drier can only be checked when compressor is running, once it stops it exhaust the pressure on that side of the system.
If your desiccant was all white and powdery it may be worth doing the other set of valves but, it just sounds like the compressor is not producing enough or you are losing it somewhere on that side of the air circuit. As you say the strut side is ok.
@gstuart chased white powder for a while I think.
If you do go for a new compressor ensure you get the same 1, if you get the different 1 available it needs software adjustment.
As said ^^^ GapIID not cheap but will soon earn its cost back.

J
Click to expand...


I think all D4 had AMK compressors as std? so cracked caps not an issue.
 
marjon said:
Had exactly the same message.Rebuilt the compressor and drier and all good now.
As you say you have rebuilt the compressor, but obviously still not getting enough air to fill tank,bags before overheating have you checked the supply lines from compressor to tank for leaks, also apparently the drier end caps can crack between the fittings. I need to look at diagram again but compressor and drier can only be checked when compressor is running, once it stops it exhaust the pressure on that side of the system.
If your desiccant was all white and powdery it may be worth doing the other set of valves but, it just sounds like the compressor is not producing enough or you are losing it somewhere on that side of the air circuit. As you say the strut side is ok.
@gstuart chased white powder for a while I think.
If you do go for a new compressor ensure you get the same 1, if you get the different 1 available it needs software adjustment.
As said ^^^ GapIID not cheap but will soon earn its cost back.

J
Click to expand...
Thanks again for the advice!
 
Hi

indeed , chased the white powder round the entire system and nearly ended up snorting a white line off bonnet is was so bad, lol

plus 1, compressor , need diagnostics to see what it’s producing , or connect a pressure gauge

As a bit of useless info, suspension will always raise at the rear first , it’s part of the headlight anti glare software , so that they don’t blind anyone

In my instance when I bought it , the suspension had been neglected for many years I rebuilt the valves and then vacuum tested them after but alas were letting by on the seals, so had to replace 3 x valves blocks, air tank, compressor , clearing lines out with compressed air

also as mentioned the gap iid is expensive but pays for itself very quickly

Plse let us know how u get on
 
gstuart said:
Hi

indeed , chased the white powder round the entire system and nearly ended up snorting a white line off bonnet is was so bad, lol

plus 1, compressor , need diagnostics to see what it’s producing , or connect a pressure gauge

As a bit of useless info, suspension will always raise at the rear first , it’s part of the headlight anti glare software , so that they don’t blind anyone

In my instance when I bought it , the suspension had been neglected for many years I rebuilt the valves and then vacuum tested them after but alas were letting by on the seals, so had to replace 3 x valves blocks, air tank, compressor , clearing lines out with compressed air

also as mentioned the gap iid is expensive but pays for itself very quickly

Plse let us know how u get on
Click to expand...
Yeah its definately broken down and got all through the system by the looks of it.
The rear seems to come up OK but a lite slower than normal however the front doesnt really come up at all and the comp over heats trying. I'll take a look at the front valve block and see what I find. The old girl has done 109k so is probably better to replace these parts anyway for future peace of mind. Will report back.
Many thanks.
 
Wilber070877 said:
Yeah its definately broken down and got all through the system by the looks of it.
The rear seems to come up OK but a lite slower than normal however the front doesnt really come up at all and the comp over heats trying. I'll take a look at the front valve block and see what I find. The old girl has done 109k so is probably better to replace these parts anyway for future peace of mind. Will report back.
Many thanks.
Click to expand...

hiya

u very welcome and ur find plenty of help here

indeed with the motor getting hot it sounds like it’s struggling , I did disconnect most of the pipes at the valve blocks and put an airline down them as I didn’t want the white dust to get into the new valves, compressor etc,

alas with it coming from the compressor will get distributed throughout , if u haven’t got a compressor maybe using some tins of compressed air, or tyre inflater , but had to do a lot with mine only because it had been left for so long plus had more leaks than a colander, so made up some test equipment to test each circuit etc as garages wanted silly money so done all the work myself , plus gaining invaluable experience of how the system works

indeed Plse let us know how u get on, also ensure the new compressor comes with a new relay

ps, this was the rig I made up in the end , also pulling a vacuum on the valve blocks helped to identify if the seals were working or not , in my case the white dust had ruined them so quicker u can get the dust out the better

B70F305D-2E14-4AD7-84B5-13990DB7A6F3.jpeg
 
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