1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  2. Welcome To LandyZone!

    LandyZone is the biggest Land Rover forum on the net. We have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place.

    Registering is free and easy just click here, we hope to see you on the forums soon!

O-Ring Change in Photos

Discussion in 'Technical Archive' started by Druim, Nov 10, 2013.

By Druim on Nov 10, 2013 at 6:48 PM
  1. Druim

    Druim Well-Known Member

    Dec 5, 2011
    Likes Received:
    I was sure it could be done with just radio out but turns out my old car where it could had the radio insert taken out, this one have all the original bits so it was done through the Hevac unit.
    Will let the photos do most of the talking, read/follow Rave for coolant refill.
    One thing there isn't a photo of is me blowing into the coolant tank after draining to empty heater core.
    No dash or speedo out, only the bits either side to get the Hevac out and bits under steering column.
    One hole for hidden screw is all you need, i.e. very little dissembling and no cutting ducts etc.
    All in all 2 hours taking it easy. NB: You don't have to drain if you got hose clamps but I find it easy and had a new plug to fit.

    First invest in a very long screw driver & O-rings, take out Hevac unit and underside of steering column, look in RAVE if in doubt of anything.
    How the screw driver are inserted
    Use a spacer for room to work, and notice end of screw driver
    Close up of screw driver, if you tap it a fair bit before trying any screw action chances of getting it loose are increased dramatically.
    New metal plug for cooler, replaces the plastic one (Not essential)
    Drain into a clean bucket if you intend to re-use coolant
    Tape up the screw driver so screw stays in place whilst changing O-rings
    Another photo of screw
    Screw loosened
    New & old O-rings, old ones usually cracked and brittle/gone hard
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2013
Tags: this article has not been tagged


Discussion in 'Technical Archive' started by Druim, Nov 10, 2013.

    1. Druim
      Here's the rest

      Old O-rings off, make sure to clean area
      DSCF2516 - Copy.JPG
      New O-rings fitted, lubed with coolant
      DSCF2517 - Copy.JPG
      Finally assembled, wriggle pipes from engine bay and re-tighten once or twice for perfect fit
      DSCF2523 - Copy.JPG
      Essential tool for the job, The long screw driver and a nice to have breaker bar.
      Follow RAVE to the dot when re-filling coolant system
      Follow RAVE to the dot when re-filling coolant system
      DSCF2527 - Copy.JPG
      Last edited: Nov 10, 2013
      welshsteve likes this.
    2. tony2
      Good set of photo's Druim, see if you can get it as a Sticky to help others.
      Did mine 12 months ago, I was lucky getting the screw out. ;)
    3. Saint.V8
      Great candidate for How To....

      Great work Druim...
    4. Moonfire
      Druim - thanks very much for the write-up I did the o-rings today and really aprpeciated your virtual help, worked like a dream.
      For those planning on doing this I used a 450 mm (crosshead) screwdriver, part of a 3-pack set from Sealey their part AK4906, I don't know if it was a perfect fit on the screw (never saw the screw head!) but it certainly did the job without any problems. The only minor change that I made to Druim's notes was to secure the screwdriver in palce with some gaffer tape to the HEVAC unit frame as opposed to the handbrake lever - saves cleaning up the handbrake afterwards..