Noisy 1.8 engine

Hi, hoping someone can help.....1.8 petrol freelander. Engine very quiet, smooth at idle....however, on the over-run, or when engine is not under load, it sounds like lots of tins of nails rattling, until the rpm falls below 2800. Touch the gas and its gone, till you back off again. Garage are scratching heads and suggesting tappets? Also have very poor power, and around 25mpg. Apart from that, its great!!

could be bearings in timing belt tensioner, 25 mpg not to far out for short runs.

ill fix it for ya

Beast o Bodmin said:

ill fix it for ya

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with a gallon of tesco's finest unleaded??!!

it doesn't need an entire gallon

Had a brief listen today...noise appears to be at the back of the motor, beneath the inlet manifold...

Sean said:

it doesn't need an entire gallon

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best to be sure sean.

that is where the water pump is situated, to pin it down further try and get hold of a stethoscope, or along screwdriver held to the ear and touching the motor in various places can pinpoint noises

I think there is also a heat shield on the exhaust, which can be given to rattling at certain engine speeds...

Thanks..I'll get the water pump checked... suggested to garage last week, that i thought it sounded more like a vibration (heat shield or similar) ie a resonance, but they said they checked it and it seemed ok, and it was probably tappets. Surely tappets would be noisy at all rpm? Motor seems good, no smoke or fumes, heater and temp perfect, but.... it is horribly slow, with a hideous flat spot, and hesitation...and poor MPG. Ive had 3 of these motors (albeit fitted in MG sports cars) but i've never encountered anything quite as underpowered and dull!!! HELP!!! Its a 3 door with rear prop removed. Should be fun to drive?

Water pump and tensioner inspected today...all fine. Heat shield removed and replaced. Motor still horribly noisy, cam cover coming off tomorrow for inspection. Now heres an oddity...inlet manifold (the bit with 'injection' printed on it), is billowing out slightly, when engine is at full induction. You can lierally see it changing shape!! Is this normal???!!

Russell Jupp said:

Water pump and tensioner inspected today...all fine. Heat shield removed and replaced. Motor still horribly noisy, cam cover coming off tomorrow for inspection. Now heres an oddity...inlet manifold (the bit with 'injection' printed on it), is billowing out slightly, when engine is at full induction. You can lierally see it changing shape!! Is this normal???!!

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i would not have thought so.

Ok, had cam cover off and inspected by local garage today. They have advised that the hydraulic lifters are very sloppy in the head, (they think that is what is causing the noise), and a replacement head is needed. Any thoughts anyone. Burn it / scrap it / drop it from a great height? All of the above??

if you think its worth keeping, fix it. BUT make sure when they put it back together they use a multilayer steel uprated head gasket in the new head set...this is supposed to prevent any further head issues re-occuring.AND an uprated oil rail from LR that the head bolts screw down into.
We probably sell Heads & uprated gaskets for that engine average once a month.
Payen gasket part number BW5750-not sure if LR do this as an uprated replacement...

Listen to yer uncle Fossy, he talks sense & it would also make sense to check out the liners to make sure they haven't "slipped". I know it aint HGF but it'd be a shame to spend a fortune & find out a year later that they were starting to fail.

chromiumuk said:

Listen to yer uncle Fossy, he talks sense & it would also make sense to check out the liners to make sure they haven't "slipped". I know it aint HGF but it'd be a shame to spend a fortune & find out a year later that they were starting to fail.

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Sorry to crash this thread but what is the cure if the liners have slipped???

remortgage yo house

DD3 said:

Sorry to crash this thread but what is the cure if the liners have slipped???

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If the cylinder liners drop too low, the engine needs to be replaced-there is no economically viable repair procedure

no-one has tried top hatting it yet?

Thanks all. The garage have suggested that i may consider a 2nd hand motor instead of a head? I'd like to keep the vehicle, so will get it sorted. Is a replacement head a good idea, or should i replace the motor? the current motor burns no oil, no fumes etc, but there is also the power / flat spot issue. Diagnostics today showed a MAP problem. Will a new MAP sensor cure this? Thanks again, Russ