Freelander 1 Noises from beneath and other issues

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Jon Swift

Member
Posts
12
Location
Birmingham
I am a complete newbie to this site, trying to repair a vehicle myself and Land Rovers in general.
A colleague of mine gave me this 2001 Freelander ES as a gift as he knew I wanted to tinker with it and had purchased a new car.

When reversing, I am often getting a groaning/creaking noise which sounds like from toward the rear end, I have also notice that when I get this noise, it feels as though the wheels have ceased up as there is no roll if I put the clutch in, it also takes more power to move it and quite often stalls!

I don't know if this could be linked or is normal, but when driving forwards I also have the ABS light on the dash until I pick up speed and get a rattle/knocking noise when shifting gears?

I know, it's a very unhappy Freelander, but if at all possible, I'd love to try and get it running properly again.
Any advice on what could be causing the above would be great....please bare in mind though that I'm a complete novice an am struggling a little with the lingo!
 
I am a complete newbie to this site, trying to repair a vehicle myself and Land Rovers in general.
A colleague of mine gave me this 2001 Freelander ES as a gift as he knew I wanted to tinker with it and had purchased a new car.

When reversing, I am often getting a groaning/creaking noise which sounds like from toward the rear end, I have also notice that when I get this noise, it feels as though the wheels have ceased up as there is no roll if I put the clutch in, it also takes more power to move it and quite often stalls!

This sounds like the vcu has tightened. Not unusual but relatively cheap to replace assuming it hasn't taken anything else with it. Vcu's are covered here a lot so search should throw up a load of info on what a tired vcu can damage.

I don't know if this could be linked or is normal, but when driving forwards I also have the ABS light on the dash until I pick up speed and get a rattle/knocking noise when shifting gears?

Is that from first engine start or all the time? The abs light should come on with the other dash lights, then blink off and on again and stay lit until you go over 5mph. Then it'll stay out until you switch the engine off and retart.

I know, it's a very unhappy Freelander, but if at all possible, I'd love to try and get it running properly again.
Any advice on what could be causing the above would be great....please bare in mind though that I'm a complete novice an am struggling a little with the lingo!
 
Thank you for replying, I will look for VCU threads to get an idea of what needs doing/looking at.

The ABS light is just at engine start so that is a relief :)

I had a look under the car after posting this thread and noticed that a couple of the exhaust brackets had rusted away to useles spikes dangling from the mounting rubber which could potentially contribute to the other noises I'm hearing, as well as a plate above the exhaust with a couple of sheared bolts that is loose enough to cause some noise.
 
Do follow @NeedleNose and check the VCU. If it is broken and you run with it on then you risk breaking other expensive parts very quickly.
Look on here for the one wheel up test described by @Hippo . This includes procedure and expected results. It should be in a sticky thread at the top of the forum.
 
If you replace the VCU, you'll have nothing left to tinker with. So I suggest leaving it on and reverse around a mini-roundabout a few times very quickly - you'll have lots to tinker with then :)
 
Following a TouTube video, I attempted to test the VCU by turning the wheel by hand...but it wouldn't budge, will try again when I have a better tool for the job.
Thank you teddywood, will definitely check them out.
 
If it's tight as you say the test is probably moot. Mine was stiff when I got it, didn't seem as bad as you describe yours but it did feel like I was reversing with the handbrake on.

Since swapping the vcu for a new one it's all ok, but inevitably some strain has been put on the ird. In my case all I can safely say is it's worked for a year so far since replacing the vcu. (When I had the clutch replaced the garage reported "swarf in the ird case" - eek!)

Yours may be the same.

If you're driving it right now I'd remove the vcu asap just to halt any more damage.
 
When the VCU is damaging the IRD it is basically wearing down the bearings in it - particularly on the pinion. As they wear the crown and pinion gears get slack, this increases wear on the gears, but importantly when the slackness reaches a critical point it starts breaking teeth on the gears - once this happens, you're into a recon IRD - or, as I did, a rebuild of the IRD.

Your IRD may have taken some damage, but it hasn't reached the critical point. I'd suggest you remove the props/VCU. Once you've got a recon/new VCU you can install the props again and as #NeedleNose says, you'll probably be alright - but if you want a bit more insurance, you could replace the bearings in the pinion. This wouldn't cost much and is quite an easy job as the pinion can be removed with the IRD staying in place. You may need to get the bearing installed by a workshop though - that's what I did.

Good luck.
 
Well I've been looking at the costs, and, for the time being am going to have to convert to 2 wheel drive :(
I don't really need 4x4 I guess, but at the same time don't see the point of owning a Freelander if it's not one!
Will definitely get VCU at some point but probably won't be until the weather warms up next year now.
Also have other more affordable tasks I can carry on with in the meantime such as replacing the boot door, central locking, the loose exhaust and some rusty bodywork...I'm actually looking forward to the most of it!

I've not driven it since getting first replies on this thread, but sadly and reluctantly pass it every day on the driveway in my boring but reliable Zafira!
 
Just a quick update, I converted my Freelander to a 2 wheel drive last weekend which has stopped the dodgy noises :) so thank you guys for the spot on diagnosis.

Now have a few other issues to deal with though but enjoying working on it.
 
If you really enjoy tinkering and have a welder and grinder then have a go at fixing the VCU yourself. It cost me approx £30 to fix the VCU and another £70 ish for bearings.
Check out the DIY VCU Fred.
 
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