No heat coming through

TCubed · Jan 20, 2013

Hi chaps,

I'm not getting any heat through from the climate system, although all the blowers are fanning nicely.
Have tried AUTO, not AUTO, HI, 28, 27 etc AC off, AC not off (although it's below 5°C so I assume it's off anyway)
This happened last night, but upon restart a couple of hours later was working again. This morning no heat.
I have topped up the coolant but that doesn't seem to have done anything.
No book icon.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Datatek · Jan 20, 2013

Duff cabin stat or clogged with fluff, duff matrix stat, blend motor problem, airlock due to HGF etc.

West Slope Rover · Jan 20, 2013

Have you done any work on the cooling system of late?

JonnyP · Jan 20, 2013

Good job it ain't cold out eh..

TCubed · Jan 20, 2013

Something was done on it August last year to get the air conditioning working (If DeRanged Rover is around he may be able to specify that)
I haven't done anything to the major cooling system as it always sits comfortably just below 12.

Thanks Data, cabin/matrix stats easy checks? And what's HGF..? (sorry)

Datatek · Jan 20, 2013

TCubed said:
Something was done on it August last year to get the air conditioning working (If DeRanged Rover is around he may be able to specify that)
I haven't done anything to the major cooling system as it always sits comfortably just below 12.

Thanks Data, cabin/matrix stats easy checks? And what's HGF..? (sorry)

HGF head gasket failure, leading to gasses in the coolant causing an airlock.
The cabin stat is the one by the clock, it has a little fan to draw air over the sensor and it gets to be clogged with fluff. Gently blow it clear if it's blocked.
If you have a book symbol on the HEVAC it could also be the temperature blend motor or flap stuck.
Otherwise diagnostics is the easiest route, time to buy a Nanocom

TCubed · Jan 20, 2013

Datatek said:
HGF head gasket failure, leading to gasses in the coolant causing an airlock.
The cabin stat is the one by the clock, it has a little fan to draw air over the sensor and it gets to be clogged with fluff. Gently blow it clear if it's blocked.
If you have a book symbol on the HEVAC it could also be the temperature blend motor or flap stuck.
Otherwise diagnostics is the easiest route, time to buy a Nanocom

I rather hope the headgasket hasn't gone after 90000 miles.. :/
Ah I've always wondered what that was, thought it was a mini speaker or something

So if I give that a blast with the air compressor that should rule out the clogged fault?
And yeah.. it may be time

Datatek · Jan 20, 2013

TCubed said:
I rather hope the headgasket hasn't gone after 90000 miles.. :/
Ah I've always wondered what that was, thought it was a mini speaker or something
So if I give that a blast with the air compressor that should rule out the clogged fault?
And yeah.. it may be time

Not a blast with an air line or you will blow it to bits, a gentle blow.
Are we talking diesel or petrol?
Have you checked for the book symbol on the HEVAC?

TCubed · Jan 20, 2013

Datatek said:
Not a blast with an air line or you will blow it to bits, a gentle blow.
Are we talking diesel or petrol?
Have you checked for the book symbol on the HEVAC?

Ah OK, thanks, got that to me in time

Mine is diesel (DHSE)
And nope, there is no book symbol
I'm not getting any white smoke or other HGF symptoms out the back, so I'm hoping that's not it...

Datatek · Jan 20, 2013

TCubed said:
Ah OK, thanks, got that to me in time
Mine is diesel (DHSE)
And nope, there is no book symbol
I'm not getting any white smoke or other HGF symptoms out the back, so I'm hoping that's not it...

Forget HGF unless it has overheated, thought it might be a V8.

TCubed · Jan 20, 2013

Datatek said:
Forget HGF unless it has overheated, thought it might be a V8.

Noooooo I used to have a Disco 1 3.9 with a pretty major HGF and overheating issue, sticking to diesels from now on

TCubed · Jan 22, 2013

Datatek said:
Not a blast with an air line or you will blow it to bits, a gentle blow.
Are we talking diesel or petrol?
Have you checked for the book symbol on the HEVAC?

Well this seems to have worked, thank you

TCubed · Jan 24, 2013

Sadly, problem returned, however I may have a diagnosis:
There is a small leak in the top of the radiator... Radweld then top-up do you think?

Datatek · Jan 24, 2013

TCubed said:
Sadly, problem returned, however I may have a diagnosis:
There is a small leak in the top of the radiator... Radweld then top-up do you think?

Radweld if you want to gum the RAD up. Buy a new one before you end up in deep ****e

TCubed · Jan 24, 2013

Datatek said:
Radweld if you want to gum the RAD up. Buy a new one before you end up in deep ****e

OK. How easy is replacement (hours) Is it worth doing myself?
Why will Radweld damage it?
The crack is very small, if that changes anything? That said it has drunk 5 litres of coolant in the past month apparently (I should say that I'm relaying this information to my dad back home)
Thanks

Datatek · Jan 24, 2013

TCubed said:
OK. How easy is replacement (hours) Is it worth doing myself?
Why will Radweld damage it?
The crack is very small, if that changes anything? That said it has drunk 5 litres of coolant in the past month apparently (I should say that I'm relaying this information to my dad back home)
Thanks

The P38 RAD has very narrow waterways. If it's cracked, it's going to fail disastrously sooner rather than later.
Depending how rusted everything is, allwow a couple of hours to change it.

TCubed · Jan 24, 2013

Datatek said:
The P38 RAD has very narrow waterways. If it's cracked, it's going to fail disastrously sooner rather than later.
Depending how rusted everything is, allwow a couple of hours to change it.

Ah so does that mean radweld blocks the narrow gap?
The one I found on Island4x4 says it's a Nissan unit?
Can I expect it to be original (ie 12 years use)?
Are we talking disconnecting and (fighting to) remove, or is there a whole load of other stuff that has to come out first?
(Thanks so much for answering all this!

)

Datatek · Jan 24, 2013

TCubed said:
Ah so does that mean radweld blocks the narrow gap?
The one I found on Island4x4 says it's a Nissan unit?
Can I expect it to be original (ie 12 years use)?
Are we talking disconnecting and (fighting to) remove, or is there a whole load of other stuff that has to come out first?
(Thanks so much for answering all this! )

Have a look in RAVE. Slam plate off, remove intercooler if it's diesel, move but don't disconnect oil cooler and aircon heat exchanger, disconnect cooler pipes to bottom if it's a manual. I don't really know about anything other than the diesel auto, I just looked at RAVE.

TCubed · Jan 28, 2013

Hoping to give this a go on Wednesday probably. Just to ask, why the disconnection of the battery?

Datatek · Jan 29, 2013

TCubed said:
Hoping to give this a go on Wednesday probably. Just to ask, why the disconnection of the battery?

Electric fan wiring and the risk of getting water in the works, just a safety precaution.

No heat coming through

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Similar threads