No heat coming through

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T

TCubed

Active Member
Posts
991
Location
Surrey
Hi chaps,

I'm not getting any heat through from the climate system, although all the blowers are fanning nicely.
Have tried AUTO, not AUTO, HI, 28, 27 etc AC off, AC not off (although it's below 5°C so I assume it's off anyway)
This happened last night, but upon restart a couple of hours later was working again. This morning no heat.
I have topped up the coolant but that doesn't seem to have done anything.
No book icon.

Any ideas?

Thanks!
 
Something was done on it August last year to get the air conditioning working (If DeRanged Rover is around he may be able to specify that)
I haven't done anything to the major cooling system as it always sits comfortably just below 12.

Thanks Data, cabin/matrix stats easy checks? And what's HGF..? (sorry)
 
TCubed said:
Something was done on it August last year to get the air conditioning working (If DeRanged Rover is around he may be able to specify that)
I haven't done anything to the major cooling system as it always sits comfortably just below 12.

Thanks Data, cabin/matrix stats easy checks? And what's HGF..? (sorry)
Click to expand...
HGF head gasket failure, leading to gasses in the coolant causing an airlock.
The cabin stat is the one by the clock, it has a little fan to draw air over the sensor and it gets to be clogged with fluff. Gently blow it clear if it's blocked.
If you have a book symbol on the HEVAC it could also be the temperature blend motor or flap stuck.
Otherwise diagnostics is the easiest route, time to buy a Nanocom:)
 
Datatek said:
HGF head gasket failure, leading to gasses in the coolant causing an airlock.
The cabin stat is the one by the clock, it has a little fan to draw air over the sensor and it gets to be clogged with fluff. Gently blow it clear if it's blocked.
If you have a book symbol on the HEVAC it could also be the temperature blend motor or flap stuck.
Otherwise diagnostics is the easiest route, time to buy a Nanocom:)
Click to expand...

I rather hope the headgasket hasn't gone after 90000 miles.. :/
Ah I've always wondered what that was, thought it was a mini speaker or something :p
So if I give that a blast with the air compressor that should rule out the clogged fault?
And yeah.. it may be time
 
TCubed said:
I rather hope the headgasket hasn't gone after 90000 miles.. :/
Ah I've always wondered what that was, thought it was a mini speaker or something :p
So if I give that a blast with the air compressor that should rule out the clogged fault?
And yeah.. it may be time
Click to expand...
Not a blast with an air line or you will blow it to bits, a gentle blow.
Are we talking diesel or petrol?
Have you checked for the book symbol on the HEVAC?
 
Datatek said:
Not a blast with an air line or you will blow it to bits, a gentle blow.
Are we talking diesel or petrol?
Have you checked for the book symbol on the HEVAC?
Click to expand...

Ah OK, thanks, got that to me in time :p
Mine is diesel (DHSE)
And nope, there is no book symbol
I'm not getting any white smoke or other HGF symptoms out the back, so I'm hoping that's not it...
 
Sadly, problem returned, however I may have a diagnosis:
There is a small leak in the top of the radiator... Radweld then top-up do you think?
 
Datatek said:
Radweld if you want to gum the RAD up. Buy a new one before you end up in deep ****e:)
Click to expand...

OK. How easy is replacement (hours) Is it worth doing myself?
Why will Radweld damage it?
The crack is very small, if that changes anything? That said it has drunk 5 litres of coolant in the past month apparently (I should say that I'm relaying this information to my dad back home)
Thanks :)
 
TCubed said:
OK. How easy is replacement (hours) Is it worth doing myself?
Why will Radweld damage it?
The crack is very small, if that changes anything? That said it has drunk 5 litres of coolant in the past month apparently (I should say that I'm relaying this information to my dad back home)
Thanks :)
Click to expand...
The P38 RAD has very narrow waterways. If it's cracked, it's going to fail disastrously sooner rather than later.
Depending how rusted everything is, allwow a couple of hours to change it.
 
Datatek said:
The P38 RAD has very narrow waterways. If it's cracked, it's going to fail disastrously sooner rather than later.
Depending how rusted everything is, allwow a couple of hours to change it.
Click to expand...

Ah so does that mean radweld blocks the narrow gap?
The one I found on Island4x4 says it's a Nissan unit?
Can I expect it to be original (ie 12 years use)?
Are we talking disconnecting and (fighting to) remove, or is there a whole load of other stuff that has to come out first?
(Thanks so much for answering all this! :) )
 
TCubed said:
Ah so does that mean radweld blocks the narrow gap?
The one I found on Island4x4 says it's a Nissan unit?
Can I expect it to be original (ie 12 years use)?
Are we talking disconnecting and (fighting to) remove, or is there a whole load of other stuff that has to come out first?
(Thanks so much for answering all this! :) )
Click to expand...

Have a look in RAVE. Slam plate off, remove intercooler if it's diesel, move but don't disconnect oil cooler and aircon heat exchanger, disconnect cooler pipes to bottom if it's a manual. I don't really know about anything other than the diesel auto, I just looked at RAVE.
 
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