new to land rovers so heres my questions pics included

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300td

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well first of all im new to forum so ill start by introducing my self im adam 25 from leeds, always had road bikes but fancied a change so bought an m reg 300tdi 5 door. i picked it up for 850 with loads of tnt but pretty high miles but doesnt bother me drives very well.

the discovery has safari snorkel, tubular bumper, 2" lift with springs and shocks but other than the ****ty green paint its standard.

i plan to do a good bit off off roading and green laning as i live oppposite parkwood 4x4 in tong , leeds and have a load of mates with discos.

iv only had her a couple of week and have been to one day up tong and she was great went through all the deep water no probs climbed most hills on road tyres so i was very please diff lock ect works very well as does the engine having the bosch pump fiddled with so goes much better than standard on boost.

the only problem i found was the towbar hit everything befor catching the diffs so iv removed the brack but need to re attach the towing ball higher up.

unfortunatly all me rear passengers ended up soaked from a wrotten body which didnt phase me all part of the fun so a few days later i set about lift the rear seats and carpet and cleaned em up with a wet vac came up well, then i set about welding up all the holes i found which you can see in the pics below, once i welded it up i coated on the inside with underseal to tidy it up and is now solid and water tight.

so that brings me to my questions. as i want to do more off roading id like a few tips on what i could do to improve the capability of the truck bearing in mind i need to keep it on road for work and the young en.

things i will do obviously are diff guards tank guards steering guards, ill also underseal the underneath and ill fit the diff breather kit.

what else is likely to need a refurb underneath to keep her going strong ?

whats a good set of wheels and tyres for on and off road use id like modular rims 15" with a good mud tyre.

sorry for my bad punctuation and spelling and i look forward to your replies also please move to correct section.
 

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Mud tires as an upgrade from the at's and slightly bigger wheels but thats about it. Maybe some protection diff n steering guards etc.
 
You're at Tong and like the water .. get marine (blue) grease and re-do all your wheel bearings ... and check 'em after every outing.

Keep your props and UJ's greased, track rod ends etc.

Axle, gearbox etc breathers are pretty necessary for prolonged deeper water exposure .. as you already have a snorkel you might already have them!

Muds are way better than AT's which are way better than road tyres, but there's a penalty to pay on road.

Diff guards are OK, as are steering guards but until you're breaking stuff a lot depends on how you drive it! I never broke a steering bar until a couple of months ago, end even with a steering guard bent it .. being a bit silly .. ;)

Learning to read the land and allowing the vehicle to do a lot of the work is good, forcing it and forever revving will screw you and the vehicle up in no time.

Go with someone who knows what they're doing and has recovery equipment and knows how to use it ..

Enjoy it .. :)
 
hopefully it wont be getting in so nothing to let out all door seals held up well so should be pretty water tight now.

Dream on its a factor built into every land rover it's called the culender effect
Fantastic if you spend time in water lets the flavour flood out
 
As standard these are good. A few mods their better. A koad of mods and you'll loom like your compensating. And some will tell you nothing but 60" wheels will work....
 
I have same problem went to whitworth pay n play and tow bar just hits everything! But dont have a tank gaurd and there bloody expensive!
Tyres are a big help i use my disco most the time on the road and a pay and play everymonth and find my insa turbo special tracks are great
also wish someone told me about checking bearings after pay and play just had to replace both and one was just dry metal and just!
 
You're at Tong and like the water .. get marine (blue) grease and re-do all your wheel bearings ... and check 'em after every outing.

Keep your props and UJ's greased, track rod ends etc.

Axle, gearbox etc breathers are pretty necessary for prolonged deeper water exposure .. as you already have a snorkel you might already have them!

Muds are way better than AT's which are way better than road tyres, but there's a penalty to pay on road.

Diff guards are OK, as are steering guards but until you're breaking stuff a lot depends on how you drive it! I never broke a steering bar until a couple of months ago, end even with a steering guard bent it .. being a bit silly .. ;)

Learning to read the land and allowing the vehicle to do a lot of the work is good, forcing it and forever revving will screw you and the vehicle up in no time.

Go with someone who knows what they're doing and has recovery equipment and knows how to use it ..

Enjoy it .. :)

whats involved in greasing wheel bearings as i think i have a dry one somewhere already are the a tapered bearing that can be cleaned and greased then is there any how to on them on this site ?
 
whats involved in greasing wheel bearings as i think i have a dry one somewhere already are the a tapered bearing that can be cleaned and greased then is there any how to on them on this site ?

Yes .. and use search, loads of how-to's, but they're dead easy really .. :)
 
Easy to replace rather than re greasing them if worn or dried out

Look at this I know it's the rear but the theory is the same

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/rear-wheel-bearings-renewed-58851.html

Not arguing, but I don't see how it's 'easier' to replace. Even new bearings I clean the 'delivery' crap off them and grease them up fully before fitting them .. essentially it's the same process after heavy wading sessions .. and I certainly wouldn't replace new bearings after every wading session ... I'd need new bearings every odd fortnight!!
 
I was thinking more on the grounds that he has only just got the car and may not know the provenance of it so as its an easy fix or replace give both options
 
ah peice of **** then and im guessing if the diff oils never been changed and iv been in deep water theres a chance its grimey is ther a how to on here for taht also

Probably, but it's basically undo drain plug, empty oil, refit drain plug, fill up!

Make sure you can undo the filler plug _BEFORE_ you empty the diff ... ;) Filler plug's is halfway up (ish) diff pan, drain is on the bottom .. Best to do it absolutely level, or as level as you can get.

Stick a drain can underneath to catch the oil, clean arounf the filler plug and drain plug so you don't shove any ****e in when you refit them. Undo the filler plug, to release any pressure if your breather is blocked maybe, undo drain plug, go make and drink a cuppa to give it plenty time to drain. Clean threads and refit drain plug tightly. Fill until oil dribbles out of the filler hole, clean threads and refit filler plug. 's easy .. :)
 
ah peice of **** then and im guessing if the diff oils never been changed and iv been in deep water theres a chance its grimey is ther a how to on here for taht also

Don't think so
But 1/2 long handle ratchet when you look at the diff you will see two square bungs one at the bottom of the diff and the other in the middle of the pan make sure you can get the pan one out befor you have a go at the bottom one
When happy you can remove both remove the pan one then the bottom one this is a stinky job let it drain
Replace the bottom one after cleaning it off and the threads off 1.7 ltr of ep90gl4
Or till it runs out of the pan hole refit pan bung
All done
 
Probably, but it's basically undo drain plug, empty oil, refit drain plug, fill up!

Make sure you can undo the filler plug _BEFORE_ you empty the diff ... ;) Filler plug's is halfway up (ish) diff pan, drain is on the bottom .. Best to do it absolutely level, or as level as you can get.

Stick a drain can underneath to catch the oil, clean arounf the filler plug and drain plug so you don't shove any ****e in when you refit them. Undo the filler plug, to release any pressure if your breather is blocked maybe, undo drain plug, go make and drink a cuppa to give it plenty time to drain. Clean threads and refit drain plug tightly. Fill until oil dribbles out of the filler hole, clean threads and refit filler plug. 's easy .. :)
Bugger you got in before me lol
 
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