New to diesel: some stupid questions!

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J

Jerry

Guest
After many years with petrol Land Rovers I've acquired my first diesel,
a three-bearing (27...series) which was overhauled by previous owner
and apperars to run very well and give excellent MPG. The engine is in
a late SIIa, 1970 which was the subject of a thorough restoration about
five years ago.

How long to wait after turning key to 'heater plugs' setting but before
starting? Previous owner said 15 seconds but that seems like a very
long time. Also, do the heater plugs have to be brought into use even
when the engine is hot (ie stop at a shop, buy a paper, come out, start
the engine)?

Why do diesels have 'fuel tank warning lights'? What are these for?
Mine has a fuel gauge that seems to be working well, but also a
'knurled' blue light in the middle of the instrument panel that
flickers when the tank is indicated at around a quarter full. There's
also a largish yellow light to the right of the speedo above the engine
off knob which does much the same thing.

The LR has a dynamo - is an alternator (say, from a SIII) a reasonable
swap? I hate to see that charge light flickering while idling in
traffic and knowing that the battery has a hefty job to start a diesel!

Is the engine speed control to the left of the instrument panel the
same thing as a hand throttle on a petrol engine?

Is it possible/sensible to start the vehicle on the handle? I always
carried a starting handle in petrol LRs but I'm not sure whether this
would be just wishful thinking on a diesel!

What daily/weekly maintenance is required to keep the engine in top
condition?

That's it for now. Thanks in advance for any help. Bet everyone else in
this group except me knows the answers!

Oh, if anyone has a set of 600x16s to sell or swap for the 750R16s that
are on the vehicle let me know -- I prefer the 'small wheels, as it
left the factory' look. The radials are quiet and don't wander but they
heavy to turn at low speed.

 
Jerry wrote:
> After many years with petrol Land Rovers I've acquired my first diesel,
> a three-bearing (27...series) which was overhauled by previous owner
> and apperars to run very well and give excellent MPG. The engine is in
> a late SIIa, 1970 which was the subject of a thorough restoration about
> five years ago.
>
> How long to wait after turning key to 'heater plugs' setting but before
> starting? Previous owner said 15 seconds but that seems like a very
> long time. Also, do the heater plugs have to be brought into use even
> when the engine is hot (ie stop at a shop, buy a paper, come out, start
> the engine)?


I used to hold them this long on my old SII diesels. Probably not
needed when warm - try it and see. If the engine doesn't fire after two
or three turns, use the glow plugs

>
> Why do diesels have 'fuel tank warning lights'? What are these for?
> Mine has a fuel gauge that seems to be working well, but also a
> 'knurled' blue light in the middle of the instrument panel that
> flickers when the tank is indicated at around a quarter full. There's
> also a largish yellow light to the right of the speedo above the engine
> off knob which does much the same thing.
>


Because running out of fuel on a diesel is a b@stard! You have to
reprime the pump by loosening a nut on the side and pumping manually
unti lthe air bubbles stop appearing. Any air in a diesel fuel line
prevents the engine running (a mate of mine used to prime by towing his
in gear for about three miles...)

> The LR has a dynamo - is an alternator (say, from a SIII) a reasonable
> swap? I hate to see that charge light flickering while idling in
> traffic and knowing that the battery has a hefty job to start a diesel!
>
> Is the engine speed control to the left of the instrument panel the
> same thing as a hand throttle on a petrol engine?
>

Probably - could you post pics anywhere?

> Is it possible/sensible to start the vehicle on the handle? I always
> carried a starting handle in petrol LRs but I'm not sure whether this
> would be just wishful thinking on a diesel!
>

Possible, but bloody hard! The knack is to turn the engine until the
pressure holds you back, then force it down hard - having heated the
engine first, mind you.

> What daily/weekly maintenance is required to keep the engine in top
> condition?
>
> That's it for now. Thanks in advance for any help. Bet everyone else in
> this group except me knows the answers!
>
> Oh, if anyone has a set of 600x16s to sell or swap for the 750R16s that
> are on the vehicle let me know -- I prefer the 'small wheels, as it
> left the factory' look. The radials are quiet and don't wander but they
> heavy to turn at low speed.
>


Stuart
 
In message <[email protected]>
"Jerry" <[email protected]> wrote:

> After many years with petrol Land Rovers I've acquired my first diesel,
> a three-bearing (27...series) which was overhauled by previous owner
> and apperars to run very well and give excellent MPG. The engine is in
> a late SIIa, 1970 which was the subject of a thorough restoration about
> five years ago.
>
> How long to wait after turning key to 'heater plugs' setting but before
> starting? Previous owner said 15 seconds but that seems like a very
> long time. Also, do the heater plugs have to be brought into use even
> when the engine is hot (ie stop at a shop, buy a paper, come out, start
> the engine)?


There's no real fixed time - even relying on the orange light is only
really a guide. After a few weeks you'll get the hang of that
particular vehicle. You shouldn't need the plugs once the engine
has run for more than a few seconds - how long depends on your
battery really. If it can't spin the engine fast enough, it will
never start, even if you warm it up with a blow torch! Some
2¼ diesels will start without the glow plugs at all in summer (not
many, admittedly...)

>
> Why do diesels have 'fuel tank warning lights'? What are these for?
> Mine has a fuel gauge that seems to be working well, but also a
> 'knurled' blue light in the middle of the instrument panel that
> flickers when the tank is indicated at around a quarter full. There's
> also a largish yellow light to the right of the speedo above the engine
> off knob which does much the same thing.


Diesels have warning lights as the pump will need priming if you
run out - usually this is the same time you discover that the lift
pump isn't working. The blue light *should* be main beam, I wonder
if the wirings a bit iffy (bad earth?).

>
> The LR has a dynamo - is an alternator (say, from a SIII) a reasonable
> swap? I hate to see that charge light flickering while idling in
> traffic and knowing that the battery has a hefty job to start a diesel!
>


Have a look around on the web, there's loads of pages telling
you how to do it and it's not difficult. A worthwhile job,
particularly on diesel.

> Is the engine speed control to the left of the instrument panel the
> same thing as a hand throttle on a petrol engine?


Yes, in a word.

>
> Is it possible/sensible to start the vehicle on the handle? I always
> carried a starting handle in petrol LRs but I'm not sure whether this
> would be just wishful thinking on a diesel!
>


It's *possible*, but practical? Not really.

> What daily/weekly maintenance is required to keep the engine in top
> condition?


Just keep an eye on the oil levels, and do the routine servicing
at 6,000 miles. Avoid using diesel out of jerrry cans!

>
> That's it for now. Thanks in advance for any help. Bet everyone else in
> this group except me knows the answers!


I suspect there's quite a few here who have never owned a 2¼ Diesel.

>
> Oh, if anyone has a set of 600x16s to sell or swap for the 750R16s that
> are on the vehicle let me know -- I prefer the 'small wheels, as it
> left the factory' look. The radials are quiet and don't wander but they
> heavy to turn at low speed.
>


Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
RISC-OS - Where have all the good guys gone?
Lib Dems - Townies keeping comedy alive
 
beamendsltd wrote:
<snip>
>
>>Why do diesels have 'fuel tank warning lights'? What are these for?
>>Mine has a fuel gauge that seems to be working well, but also a
>>'knurled' blue light in the middle of the instrument panel that
>>flickers when the tank is indicated at around a quarter full. There's
>>also a largish yellow light to the right of the speedo above the engine
>>off knob which does much the same thing.

>
>
> Diesels have warning lights as the pump will need priming if you
> run out - usually this is the same time you discover that the lift
> pump isn't working. The blue light *should* be main beam, I wonder
> if the wirings a bit iffy (bad earth?).
>
>


Isn't that only on the SIII? - the SII diesels I have known and loved(?)
had blue lights for the diesel low warning. BTW I thought the orange
light was for the glow plugs?
 

>
> Isn't that only on the SIII? - the SII diesels I have known and loved(?)
> had blue lights for the diesel low warning. BTW I thought the orange
> light was for the glow plugs?


Guys, many thanks for the info -- a real help and definitely cleared up
one or two mysteries!

In answer to the point above. there are two (IIRC) telltales set within
the speedo itself: a blue for main beam (this does actually work, I
tried switching and and watched it go on and off) and a yellow labelled
'cold start' which lights up faintly but doesn't seem to go out. The
previous owner said this was for the glow plugs and it would go out
when the plugs were heated - maybe I'm just not holding onto the key
long enough.

In the middle of the instruent panel itself there's a 'medium sized'
blue light which flickered randomly when the tank was indicated at
around a quarter full.

To the right of the speedo, between the panel light switch (above) and
the engine cut-off switch (below) there's a large yellow (or may be
orange) lamp which also flickered occasionally.

Both these lamps are shown the in the Land Rover repair manuals (the
thick green books) as fuel tank indicator lights. Not having owned a
diesel I had no idea why this might be necessary -- now of course it's
deadly clear! Priming the pump in a petrol is just few pulls on the
lever below the sendiment bowl, by comparison, a diesel sound like a
nightmare!

BTW, why not fuel from a jerry can? In case of sediment/rust in the can
or is the 2.25 diesel particularly sensitive? I was thinking of
homebrewing some biodiesel with old cooking fat...

 
In message <[email protected]>
Srtgray <[email protected]> wrote:

> beamendsltd wrote:
> <snip>
> >
> >>Why do diesels have 'fuel tank warning lights'? What are these for?
> >>Mine has a fuel gauge that seems to be working well, but also a
> >>'knurled' blue light in the middle of the instrument panel that
> >>flickers when the tank is indicated at around a quarter full. There's
> >>also a largish yellow light to the right of the speedo above the engine
> >>off knob which does much the same thing.

> >
> >
> > Diesels have warning lights as the pump will need priming if you
> > run out - usually this is the same time you discover that the lift
> > pump isn't working. The blue light *should* be main beam, I wonder
> > if the wirings a bit iffy (bad earth?).
> >
> >

>
> Isn't that only on the SIII? - the SII diesels I have known and loved(?)
> had blue lights for the diesel low warning. BTW I thought the orange
> light was for the glow plugs?


That's quite possible!

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
RISC-OS - Where have all the good guys gone?
Lib Dems - Townies keeping comedy alive
 
In message <[email protected]>
"Jerry" <[email protected]> wrote:

>
> >
> > Isn't that only on the SIII? - the SII diesels I have known and loved(?)
> > had blue lights for the diesel low warning. BTW I thought the orange
> > light was for the glow plugs?

>
> Guys, many thanks for the info -- a real help and definitely cleared up
> one or two mysteries!
>
> In answer to the point above. there are two (IIRC) telltales set within
> the speedo itself: a blue for main beam (this does actually work, I
> tried switching and and watched it go on and off) and a yellow labelled
> 'cold start' which lights up faintly but doesn't seem to go out. The
> previous owner said this was for the glow plugs and it would go out
> when the plugs were heated - maybe I'm just not holding onto the key
> long enough.
>
> In the middle of the instruent panel itself there's a 'medium sized'
> blue light which flickered randomly when the tank was indicated at
> around a quarter full.
>
> To the right of the speedo, between the panel light switch (above) and
> the engine cut-off switch (below) there's a large yellow (or may be
> orange) lamp which also flickered occasionally.
>
> Both these lamps are shown the in the Land Rover repair manuals (the
> thick green books) as fuel tank indicator lights. Not having owned a
> diesel I had no idea why this might be necessary -- now of course it's
> deadly clear! Priming the pump in a petrol is just few pulls on the
> lever below the sendiment bowl, by comparison, a diesel sound like a
> nightmare!
>
> BTW, why not fuel from a jerry can? In case of sediment/rust in the can
> or is the 2.25 diesel particularly sensitive? I was thinking of
> homebrewing some biodiesel with old cooking fat...
>


Jerry cans often have that pink/red "stuff" in them, and it plays
havoc with the filters when it gets in the tank. The 2¼ diesel will
run on any old rubbish, but it must be reasonably clean.
The filler neck filter will often be good enough, but a lot get
thrown away as they can cause modern garage pumps to keep "tripping
out" - if yours is still there, just take it out when filling up
from a grage pump (it should be on a bit of chain so you can't
forget to put it back!)

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
RISC-OS - Where have all the good guys gone?
Lib Dems - Townies keeping comedy alive
 
On 7 Sep 2006 02:48:32 -0700, Jerry wrote:

> How long to wait after turning key to 'heater plugs' setting but before
> starting? Previous owner said 15 seconds but that seems like a very
> long time.


Not a nice old engine like yours but the glow plug light on my TD5 glows
for longer than it takes me to settle in the seat, put on my seat belt
and sort that out and other prestart checks. Some engines don't need glow
plugs at all, even when stone cold but they all vary.

> Also, do the heater plugs have to be brought into use even when the
> engine is hot (ie stop at a shop, buy a paper, come out, start
> the engine)?


Shouldn't do, on decent engine.

> Why do diesels have 'fuel tank warning lights'?


See other comments about priming required if you run out of fuel. At
least yours has something simple, open a valve and pump a handle. The DII
has some arcane ignition switch/throttle press sequence to set the
computer controlled priming sequence into operation. You then have sit
through all manner of squeals and wines from the pump for quite some
time, minutes.

> Is it possible/sensible to start the vehicle on the handle?


It might be but most diesels that can be hand started have some means of
taking the compression off so you can wind them up to a decent speed on
the handle, drop the compression in and actually use the stored momentum
in the flywheel to start 'em.

--
Cheers [email protected]
Dave. pam is missing e-mail



 
On or around 7 Sep 2006 02:48:32 -0700, "Jerry"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>After many years with petrol Land Rovers I've acquired my first diesel,
>a three-bearing (27...series) which was overhauled by previous owner
>and apperars to run very well and give excellent MPG. The engine is in
>a late SIIa, 1970 which was the subject of a thorough restoration about
>five years ago.
>
>How long to wait after turning key to 'heater plugs' setting but before
>starting? Previous owner said 15 seconds but that seems like a very
>long time. Also, do the heater plugs have to be brought into use even
>when the engine is hot (ie stop at a shop, buy a paper, come out, start
>the engine)?


not necessarily.

on a 1.8 sherpa diesel it used to need about 30sec of heat in summer and
about 90 sec in freezing weather.

the series glowplugs are much slower than the ones in the TDi.

but like they all said - if you crank the engine for more than about 5
seconds and it doesn't fire, you didn't give it enough heat.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"Ask yourself whether you are happy, and you cease to be so."
John Stuart Mill (1806 - 1873)
 
Dave Liquorice <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:

> It might be but most diesels that can be hand started have some means
> of taking the compression off so you can wind them up to a decent
> speed on the handle, drop the compression in and actually use the
> stored momentum in the flywheel to start 'em.


Makes me want to dust my fergie off it does ;-)

Lee D


 
Once more: thanks everyone for all the comments and help.

This diesel thing is so weird, familiar but strange all at the same
time. Like moving from England to Australia or America where they speak
the same language (!) and everything is roughly the same but really
*very* different. Even after many years owning Land Rovers I feel all
at sea like a complete novice!

At least rust is the same problem...!

 
Jerry wrote:

||| Isn't that only on the SIII? - the SII diesels I have known and
||| loved(?) had blue lights for the diesel low warning. BTW I thought
||| the orange light was for the glow plugs?
||
|| Guys, many thanks for the info -- a real help and definitely cleared
|| up one or two mysteries!
||
|| In answer to the point above. there are two (IIRC) telltales set
|| within the speedo itself: a blue for main beam (this does actually
|| work, I tried switching and and watched it go on and off) and a
|| yellow labelled 'cold start' which lights up faintly but doesn't
|| seem to go out.

Maybe a red herring, but is it a factory diesel or a later transplant? I
only ask because the petrols have a yellow warning light labelled "cold
start" which lights up if the choke is still out and the engine warm. The
contact on the choke knob will be a bit iffy at this age and may cause the
light to stay on. ICBW, of course.

--
Rich
==============================

Take out the obvious to email me.


 
Lee_D wrote:

|| Dave Liquorice <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
|| about:
||
||| It might be but most diesels that can be hand started have some
||| means of taking the compression off so you can wind them up to a
||| decent speed on the handle, drop the compression in and actually
||| use the stored momentum in the flywheel to start 'em.
||
|| Makes me want to dust my fergie off it does ;-)
||
|| Lee D

Is that before or after you've played with your Percy?

obFnarr.

--
Rich
==============================

Take out the obvious to email me.


 
On 2006-09-07, Richard Brookman <[email protected]> wrote:

> Is that before or after you've played with your Percy?
>
> obFnarr.


That's more like it ;-)

--
Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!
 
Jerry wrote:

> After many years with petrol Land Rovers I've acquired my first diesel,
> a three-bearing (27...series) which was overhauled by previous owner
> and apperars to run very well and give excellent MPG. The engine is in
> a late SIIa, 1970 which was the subject of a thorough restoration about
> five years ago.
>
> How long to wait after turning key to 'heater plugs' setting but before
> starting? Previous owner said 15 seconds but that seems like a very
> long time. Also, do the heater plugs have to be brought into use even
> when the engine is hot (ie stop at a shop, buy a paper, come out, start
> the engine)?


In this country at least, heater plugs are only needed in cold weather and
mine would start without even in cold weather if the battery is in good
shape.
>
> Why do diesels have 'fuel tank warning lights'? What are these for?
> Mine has a fuel gauge that seems to be working well, but also a
> 'knurled' blue light in the middle of the instrument panel that
> flickers when the tank is indicated at around a quarter full. There's
> also a largish yellow light to the right of the speedo above the engine
> off knob which does much the same thing.


As others have commented this is because you have to prime the fuel system
if you run out.
>
> The LR has a dynamo - is an alternator (say, from a SIII) a reasonable
> swap? I hate to see that charge light flickering while idling in
> traffic and knowing that the battery has a hefty job to start a diesel!


Did this before taking delivery of the one I owned in 1966, so yes.
>
> Is the engine speed control to the left of the instrument panel the
> same thing as a hand throttle on a petrol engine?


Yes
>
> Is it possible/sensible to start the vehicle on the handle? I always
> carried a starting handle in petrol LRs but I'm not sure whether this
> would be just wishful thinking on a diesel!


No - not for any normal person.

>
> What daily/weekly maintenance is required to keep the engine in top
> condition?


Check oil and water. If fuel is at all suspect check the strainer on the
lift pump for water (look don't take it off or you will have to prime it).

>
> That's it for now. Thanks in advance for any help. Bet everyone else in
> this group except me knows the answers!
>
> Oh, if anyone has a set of 600x16s to sell or swap for the 750R16s that
> are on the vehicle let me know -- I prefer the 'small wheels, as it
> left the factory' look. The radials are quiet and don't wander but they
> heavy to turn at low speed.


Check tyre pressure, but it is probable that you are just used to power
steering. Going to 600x16 would make the steering lighter, but I would
stick to radials, as the steering is markedly better with them.
JD

 
On or around Thu, 7 Sep 2006 19:06:25 +0100, "Lee_D"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Dave Liquorice <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
>
>> It might be but most diesels that can be hand started have some means
>> of taking the compression off so you can wind them up to a decent
>> speed on the handle, drop the compression in and actually use the
>> stored momentum in the flywheel to start 'em.

>
>Makes me want to dust my fergie off it does ;-)


diesel or petrol/TVO?

top tip - don't try to hand-start a diesel engine with aerostart in it.
Donkeys aren't in it, that mutha really kicked back.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"There are three sorts of people in the world - those who can count,
and those who can't" (Anon)
 
Austin Shackles <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz
funny about:
>
> diesel or petrol/TVO?
>
> top tip - don't try to hand-start a diesel engine with aerostart in
> it. Donkeys aren't in it, that mutha really kicked back.


Derv TEF20 which I understand is one of the rare ones which also has a drop
down hitch/hook under the PTO cira 1954

In fact it's so Rare I'm planning on pulling it apart and making it into a
camper ;-)

Lee D


 

"Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Austin Shackles <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz
> funny about:
> >
> > diesel or petrol/TVO?
> >
> > top tip - don't try to hand-start a diesel engine with aerostart in
> > it. Donkeys aren't in it, that mutha really kicked back.

>
> Derv TEF20


Freeman Sanders or Ricardo ?

Martin

which I understand is one of the rare ones which also has a drop
> down hitch/hook under the PTO cira 1954
>
> In fact it's so Rare I'm planning on pulling it apart and making it into a
> camper ;-)
>
> Lee D
>
>



 

"beamendsltd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:c82f9d624e%[email protected]...
> In message <[email protected]>
> "Jerry" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > After many years with petrol Land Rovers I've acquired my first diesel,
> > a three-bearing (27...series) which was overhauled by previous owner
> > and apperars to run very well and give excellent MPG. The engine is in
> > a late SIIa, 1970 which was the subject of a thorough restoration about
> > five years ago.
> >
> > How long to wait after turning key to 'heater plugs' setting but before
> > starting? Previous owner said 15 seconds but that seems like a very
> > long time. Also, do the heater plugs have to be brought into use even
> > when the engine is hot (ie stop at a shop, buy a paper, come out, start
> > the engine)?

>
> There's no real fixed time -


6 to 7 seconds is an optimum time, this can be verified by assembling the
heater system outside the engine and timing the warm up visibly.

even relying on the orange light is only
> really a guide.


The orange cold start light is quite useful really. It is wired across the
terminals of the pre-heater power supply resistor ( the one fastened to the
bulkhead just above and behind the engine). As the pre-heaters are used, the
loading on the resistor makes it get hot which increases its resistance and
more current then tries to pass through the cold start bulb making it
brighter which in turn is a good indication of over-use of pre-heaters. If
the orange light glows brightly initially then that usually indicates a
short circuit, if it doesn't light at all that indicates an open circuit
meaning possibly a burned out pre-heater plug (assuming you have the
original series connected glow plugs of course).

After a few weeks you'll get the hang of that
> particular vehicle. You shouldn't need the plugs once the engine
> has run for more than a few seconds - how long depends on your
> battery really. If it can't spin the engine fast enough, it will
> never start, even if you warm it up with a blow torch! Some
> 2¼ diesels will start without the glow plugs at all in summer (not
> many, admittedly...)
>


The engine should start quite readily without the heater plugs in warm
weather if it is in good condition, i.e. it has compression and fuel, but
lack of either could be down to quite a number of faults.

> >
> > Why do diesels have 'fuel tank warning lights'? What are these for?
> > Mine has a fuel gauge that seems to be working well, but also a
> > 'knurled' blue light in the middle of the instrument panel that
> > flickers when the tank is indicated at around a quarter full. There's
> > also a largish yellow light to the right of the speedo above the engine
> > off knob which does much the same thing.

>
> Diesels have warning lights as the pump will need priming if you
> run out - usually this is the same time you discover that the lift
> pump isn't working. The blue light *should* be main beam, I wonder
> if the wirings a bit iffy (bad earth?).
>


Main beam light should be in the speedo, the 'knurled' blue lamp for low
fuel warning is situated between the 'clocks'.

> >
> > The LR has a dynamo - is an alternator (say, from a SIII) a reasonable
> > swap? I hate to see that charge light flickering while idling in
> > traffic and knowing that the battery has a hefty job to start a diesel!
> >

>
> Have a look around on the web, there's loads of pages telling
> you how to do it and it's not difficult. A worthwhile job,
> particularly on diesel.
>


You will also need the cast alternator bracket to replace the dynamo
mounting plates at the bottom / front of the block. You can use the same
wires that were on the dynamo, reconnect them to alternator terminals,
remove control box for dynamo, discard earth connection, connect small
brown/yellow wire from W/L terminal to small green wire wire from F terminal
and connect large wire from D terminal to large wire(s) from B or B+, job
done!

> > Is the engine speed control to the left of the instrument panel the
> > same thing as a hand throttle on a petrol engine?

>
> Yes, in a word.
>
> >
> > Is it possible/sensible to start the vehicle on the handle? I always
> > carried a starting handle in petrol LRs but I'm not sure whether this
> > would be just wishful thinking on a diesel!
> >


I'd like to see that :) , but seriously it can be done if the battery is
down but not flat if someone turns the handle as you turn the key, but not
with a completely flat battery.

Martin

>
> It's *possible*, but practical? Not really.
>
> > What daily/weekly maintenance is required to keep the engine in top
> > condition?

>
> Just keep an eye on the oil levels, and do the routine servicing
> at 6,000 miles. Avoid using diesel out of jerrry cans!
>
> >
> > That's it for now. Thanks in advance for any help. Bet everyone else in
> > this group except me knows the answers!

>
> I suspect there's quite a few here who have never owned a 2¼ Diesel.
>
> >
> > Oh, if anyone has a set of 600x16s to sell or swap for the 750R16s that
> > are on the vehicle let me know -- I prefer the 'small wheels, as it
> > left the factory' look. The radials are quiet and don't wander but they
> > heavy to turn at low speed.
> >

>
> Richard
>
> --
> www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
> RISC-OS - Where have all the good guys gone?
> Lib Dems - Townies keeping comedy alive



 
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