New rear halfshaft - now have awful grinding noise!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Shrubby69

Member
Posts
48
Location
Tunbridge wells
Hi fellow forum members. Hoping to pick your respective brains!
I’ve just changed the drive flanges all round on my 2000 TD5 90.
Front ones all good.
Rears are one-piece units with the half shaft. Off-side rear went on fine.
Near side rear - seemed to slot in ok. Tightened all bolts up (new) put the wheel back on. Gave it a spin - VERY tight.
Took it off the jack - rolled too and fro very gently - have an awful ‘tearing’ metallic noise.
Took it all apart again. Checked new vs old - identical. No apparent damage to splines on the halfshaft.
Refitted the new one again. Same noise.
Decided to put old one back in thinking maybe they were slightly different. But I still have the same noise.
Any idea what I might have done?
 
Right. Checked both rear wheels. Shafts out. Wheel bearings ok.
Then also swapped the off-side one for the original one. Both sides are now back on original ones now. The noise has gone.
Properly confused now. I double checked originals vs new. There is one minor difference - the splines on the new ones are slightly longer than the old ones. If they were shorter - I could see that possibly meaning they might not fully seat - but I can’t think of any obvious problem having longer splines? Anyway - part numbers match so I’m sure they are fine.
The only thing I did differently this time is that I had both rear wheels off the ground at the same time. The first time I fitted them I did a side at a time and only had one wheel off the ground on stands. Could that have somehow put tension in the diff (although you could do they every time you changed a wheel though so I can’t see that either?)

Anyway - it’s drivable now. I’ll have another go next weekend!
 
Right. Checked both rear wheels. Shafts out. Wheel bearings ok.
Then also swapped the off-side one for the original one. Both sides are now back on original ones now. The noise has gone.
Properly confused now. I double checked originals vs new. There is one minor difference - the splines on the new ones are slightly longer than the old ones. If they were shorter - I could see that possibly meaning they might not fully seat - but I can’t think of any obvious problem having longer splines? Anyway - part numbers match so I’m sure they are fine.
The only thing I did differently this time is that I had both rear wheels off the ground at the same time. The first time I fitted them I did a side at a time and only had one wheel off the ground on stands. Could that have somehow put tension in the diff (although you could do they every time you changed a wheel though so I can’t see that either?)

Anyway - it’s drivable now. I’ll have another go next weekend!

Doube check the lenth of the shaft inner face to the end of the splines, I wonder if to long by a knats cock and pushing something out in the diff?
 
Thanks Lynall. I’ll do that. I’ll have them both out again.
If that is a problem - just grind the required amount off the end?

That would be my fix, but then I am bit of a billy bodger, but it you think about it, the grinding it shorter cannot do any harm.
Did the halfshaft push fully home by hand, or did you havre to pull it in the last few millimetres?
 
Yes, that would be my guess. Maybe the end of the half shaft is fouling something in the diff. One way of testing it would be to bolt it in temporarily witha few washers between the flange and the hub to space it out a bit. If all is well like hat, maybe grind the half shaft down a bit.
 
That would be my fix, but then I am bit of a billy bodger, but it you think about it, the grinding it shorter cannot do any harm.
Did the halfshaft push fully home by hand, or did you havre to pull it in the last few millimetres?
It went in ok by hand. Seemed to slot in all the way without any force required. However I could definitely see it tighten down as the bolts were tightened.
 
Maybe that’s why LR didn’t fit one piece drive shafts as standard.
The separate drive members allow for a small amount of movement.
 
Maybe that’s why LR didn’t fit one piece drive shafts as standard.
The separate drive members allow for a small amount of movement.
I'm prepared for some very minor surgery with my grinder at the weekend. And it should only be very minor - the new ones really do look the same as the old ones by eye - but I'll do some careful measurement this weekend and I'll let you all know what the outcome is. I'm a dab hand at doing them now anyway! Just need to get some more gaskets.
New ones are Bearmach - so should be decent quality.
Thanks for all the advice.
 
Maybe that’s why LR didn’t fit one piece drive shafts as standard.
The separate drive members allow for a small amount of movement.

i thought one piece rear 1/2 shafts were std, especially on the 90 models?
 
Back
Top