New rear crank seal won't seal

tottot · Apr 1, 2015

A friend is giving his Landy 300tdi motor a basic overhaul,injectors,valves ect. However rear crank seal just wont seal,first attempt was new seal in original housing, the type with an o ring, no good.engine out.

Second attempt was with new complete seal housing the type with a gasket, no good so engine out again

Had a look today and it seems like oil is escaping from behind the housing not the crank seal its self. Replacement housing was from Bearmach.

Have seen conflicting advice on this one, old type/new type housing, Gasket with silicon or just silicon on its own.

Whats the best to do? Any advice welcome.

R0B · Apr 1, 2015

i used black sealant on mine in lieu of the gasket. could be the t-seals which is an easy enough job if you've got access to an engine stand and have the engine out already.

tottot · Apr 1, 2015

Engine is out, T seals done. My friend is careful with his repairs and I have only ever done series and 200 rear seals with no problem.

jamesmartin · Apr 2, 2015

gasket is best if seal is fitted well it covers the main bearing cap joints,are you using a genuine seal,are main bearings worn

discomania · Apr 2, 2015

tottot said:
A friend is giving his Landy 300tdi motor a basic overhaul,injectors,valves ect. However rear crank seal just wont seal,first attempt was new seal in original housing, the type with an o ring, no good.engine out.
Second attempt was with new complete seal housing the type with a gasket, no good so engine out again

Had a look today and it seems like oil is escaping from behind the housing not the crank seal its self. Replacement housing was from Bearmach.

Have seen conflicting advice on this one, old type/new type housing, Gasket with silicon or just silicon on its own.

Whats the best to do? Any advice welcome.

I'd seal it with RTV silicone, however, how was it installed before? If you change the contact point it can lead to issues. The seal will push it out further than the RTV will so if it was on RTV first then you use a seal you run the risk of abrading the new seal on the relatively speaking rough surface of the unworn metal, even cleaning it wont be the same.

tottot · Apr 2, 2015

jamesmartin said:
gasket is best if seal is fitted well it covers the main bearing cap joints,are you using a genuine seal,are main bearings worn

Engine has only done 75 thousand miles and looks in pretty good order. have now ordered a genuine replacement seal and gasket.

trax · Apr 2, 2015

i used rtv on mine, as that's how it was when i took it off and i wanted to use the same metal (is it called the land?)

i bought oem, but tbh it looked like a cheaper version of the dowty i removed. i think i'd go genuine lr if i did it again as it is a faff to get to it. it's about a tenner more.

discomania · Apr 2, 2015

trax said:
i used rtv on mine, as that's how it was when i took it off and i wanted to use the same metal (is it called the land?)

i bought oem, but tbh it looked like a cheaper version of the dowty i removed. i think i'd go genuine lr if i did it again as it is a faff to get to it. it's about a tenner more.

Seal journal? I bought one from turner engineering, I spoke to Freda who assured me it was the best you could buy.

Not sure who made it but I was pleased with the quality, and it came with the proper alignment ring and an additional dust seal.

tottot · Apr 2, 2015

Hi discomania, Original fitting was seal housing with o ring in a groove, first replacement was from bearmach with a gasket, when engine was remove for the second time it was clear oil was leaking from the bottom between seal housing and block.

trax · Apr 2, 2015

discomania said:
Seal journal? I bought one from turner engineering, I spoke to Freda who assured me it was the best you could buy.

Not sure who made it but I was pleased with the quality, and it came with the proper alignment ring and an additional dust seal.

seal journal, that sounds right

this came with a ring, just the difference in quality was noticeable to the orig.

ah yeah, Turner Engineering LUF100430 Rear Oil Seal looks better

discomania · Apr 2, 2015

trax said:
seal journal, that sounds right

this came with a ring, just the difference in quality was noticeable to the orig.

ah yeah, Turner Engineering LUF100430 Rear Oil Seal looks better

All the kit from Turners is good, it has to be as they rebuild engines then give warranties and things so they need to be sending stuff out in basically factory spec.

Freda is very knowledgeable and she's given me some great insight into various things over the years, like the cheap valve cap issue (little caps on top of the valve stems the rocker smacks).

Even LR bagged ones were rubbish she was saying and that only one place still made the proper hardened steel ones. I went out and got some LR bagged ones and right enough, I was able to badly damage them with a hacksaw! Hardened?

tottot · Apr 4, 2015

Engine back in for the third time and no leak

[third time lucky] genuine land rover seal housing with rtv,also noted gasket was thicker.

Looked at the turner engineering one and see two extra holes in it. Has anyone fitted one of these and is the idea to drill and tap bearing cap for extra bolts?

Thanks to all who responded.

trax · Apr 4, 2015

tottot said:
Engine back in for the third time and no leak[third time lucky] genuine land rover seal housing with rtv,also noted gasket was thicker.

Looked at the turner engineering one and see two extra holes in it. Has anyone fitted one of these and is the idea to drill and tap bearing cap for extra bolts?

Thanks to all who responded.

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New rear crank seal won't seal

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