'New' P38 preventative maintenance

short version -

Just bought a P38 DHSE with 116000 miles.

It has a full service history from new through main dealers.

I have been advised by a farmer friend who actually as a few Landrover vehicles (2*l322, 1* P 38 and a LR 90) that I should get the friendly local mechanic to change the oil in the difs, clean or replace the filters in the air suspension as well as a normal oil change.

Any thoughts on this or any other things to get looked at. I want to keep it for a few years so am happy to do a certain amount of preventative medicine. Little bit like taking a couple of paracetamol before bed after a big night out.

Regardless of service history, i always give a new to me vehicle a full oil change and good coat of looking at, that way your sure. Don't rely on anything, do it yourself for peace of mind.

wammers said:

Regardless of service history, i always give a new to me vehicle a full oil change and good coat of looking at, that way your sure. Don't rely on anything, do it yourself for peace of mind.

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I think that could be good advice.

Fully agree with with Wammers on that. Plus get a few hours reading on "EAS faults"....
But Wammers is wrong about perpetual motion machines tho`. (your mpg post). I`ve invented one, it`s a surefire business oppoptunity, and I`m looking for investors....

gtland said:

Fully agree with with Wammers on that. Plus get a few hours reading on "EAS faults"....
But Wammers is wrong about perpetual motion machines tho`. (your mpg post). I`ve invented one, it`s a surefire business oppoptunity, and I`m looking for investors....

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Food that gives you constant ****s don't count. McDonalds and Burger King already got the franchise on that.

wammers said:

Regardless of service history, i always give a new to me vehicle a full oil change and good coat of looking at, that way your sure. Don't rely on anything, do it yourself for peace of mind.

Click to expand...

Regular oil changes with a good quality oil is all I'd of asked of the previous keeper of my P38,that way my engine would now sound a lot less tappety I think,oh yeah and don't let the valeters wipe the life out of the steering wheel,I don't like pressing buttons to see what they do because the Kosovo kid thinks back to black looks good on interiors,I had a valet last week at my local commie car wash,I now drive a RANGE ROER and when the youth climbed onto the sill to do the roof he took a nice hand full of fluffy trim with him when he grabbed the interior A post trim,I could of f'ing swung for him,better off doing as much as you can yourself.

Talking of fluffy trim, does anyone recommend a nice cleaner that doesn't flatten it down and make it look ugly? My fluffy trim is definitely looking its full 14 years. It's now closer to black than mid-grey!

amongstit said:

don't let the valeters wipe the life out of the steering wheel,

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I don't let anyone 'valet' my P38 except me; apart from the fact I don't trust 'em its a good opportunity to check it all over and focus closely on it to find all those 'preventative maintenance' bits that need doing - like fluid appearing on the wheels and loose screws knocking about inside. Oh, and I get to keep the loose coins from under the seats!

Takson said:

short version -

Just bought a P38 DHSE with 116000 miles.

It has a full service history from new through main dealers.

I have been advised by a farmer friend who actually as a few Landrover vehicles (2*l322, 1* P 38 and a LR 90) that I should get the friendly local mechanic to change the oil in the difs, clean or replace the filters in the air suspension as well as a normal oil change.

Any thoughts on this or any other things to get looked at. I want to keep it for a few years so am happy to do a certain amount of preventative medicine. Little bit like taking a couple of paracetamol before bed after a big night out.

Click to expand...

OK, if you are serious about this truck also you need to;
1, fit 4 new air springs
2, fit 4 new height sensors
3,fit a new EAS drive pack
4, rebuild the EAS compressor
5,change the heater matrix o rings
6,fit a new window regulator to the drivers door.

All of the above will be on their last legs if they are original to the car.Forgot to mention to check the brake pipes - many P38's now have very rusty pipes,esp to the rear brakes.
Last off make sure you get two working keys,and that the car can be started with the EKA code.(IE,without the fobs working)

Don't let valeters near it inside or out with a steam cleaner.
As eightinavee says it will need new airsprings if they are original, don't agree about the driver pack though having got one apart when they are going to fail is anybodies guess. I would suggest changing the EAS air dryer as the dessicant starts to break up and get into the valve block causing some strange things to happen. I would also suggest changing the autobox oil and filter, the oil is supposed to be changed every 30K miles and is a job that is often neglected.
Good luck with it.

Datatek said:

Don't let valeters near it inside or out with a steam cleaner.
As eightinavee says it will need new airsprings if they are original, don't agree about the driver pack though having got one apart when they are going to fail is anybodies guess. I would suggest changing the EAS air dryer as the dessicant starts to break up and get into the valve block causing some strange things to happen. I would also suggest changing the autobox oil and filter, the oil is supposed to be changed every 30K miles and is a job that is often neglected.
Good luck with it.

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The reason I gave the above list is that I have made a living out of fixing the rubbish for a long time - they are all the bits I replace,over and over again.Cant remember how many times I've seen the "Pressure signal constantly high" code along with the more likely "Constantly low" one.Hardly likely for the pressure to be high with an oft knackered compressor pumping air into perished springs trying to achieve heights that the sensors will give in many positions.

eightinavee said:

The reason I gave the above list is that I have made a living out of fixing the rubbish for a long time - they are all the bits I replace,over and over again.Cant remember how many times I've seen the "Pressure signal constantly high" code along with the more likely "Constantly low" one.Hardly likely for the pressure to be high with an oft knackered compressor pumping air into perished springs trying to achieve heights that the sensors will give in many positions.

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I have the greatest respect for your technical expertise eightinavee, but IMO a new driver pack that has sat on the shelf for 10 years is just as likely to fail as one that has been working for the same period. The electrolytic capacitors that seem to be main the failure items also degrade when not in use. Change it by all means but keep the working one as a spare

I suppose it depends where you buy parts from,I've never noticed that genuine LR ones have been 10 years old and they do have an individuals signature/date on them.I've also never had a replaced one come back to me.
I started my business with the idea that customers would have their car fixed to as good as it was when it left the factory or better if poss,I do take it personally if a car fails for the same reason.Some of my customers just ask me to make it reliable and nice to use,others just turn up when it goes wrong.One is planned the other isnt,I've never been sad enough to work out who spends most.....