New Owner EAS fault

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pwood999 said:
Check which version of USB-Serial driver you have, and makes sure you don't have two versions installed. In windoze device manager, select "View / Hidden Devices" and uninstall any rogue drivers. There are differences between the Prolific PL2302 and others.

I run Win-XP VM on my Macbook Air, and use the "ftdibus" driver with more success. Shows up as COM1

Pete
Click to expand...

Are you using parallels? I need to get my mac sorted for diagnostics...
 
Ross,
Yes I am using Parallels on Mac.
  • Enable USB, and then boot Win-xp or Win7.
  • Then when you plug in the USB-Serial, select the VM rather than host.
  • Then the USB device appears in windows.
  • BUT, and earlier in this thread, install the USB-Serial driver first.
  • The serial cable can be a bit random in Device Manager, so you need to check which COM port it's using, and then select that in EASunlock.
Pete
 
wammers said:
Load the adaptor driver BEFORE you plug adaptor into laptop.
Click to expand...
As above, if you plugged in before installing the supplied driver W7 will have installed a generic USB driver that will not work. You will have to remove the Win driver and install the correct one BEFORE plugging the adaptor in. The FTDI chip set adaptors are generally the easiest to get working.
 
Datatek said:
As above, if you plugged in before installing the supplied driver W7 will have installed a generic USB driver that will not work. You will have to remove the Win driver and install the correct one BEFORE plugging the adaptor in. The FTDI chip set adaptors are generally the easiest to get working.
Click to expand...

Further developments.

I recieved a replacement usb/serial adapter today, tried it and still the same.

The driver is the one supplied by the seller on the cd and ive tried uninstalling the driver, installing it before connecting the adapter, even tried it with internet turned off just in case it was updating the driver but still nothing.

I decided to check all connections again and all look good also tried another relay in the fuse box, rechecked all fuses etc.

Whilst i was checking i left the program running and when i looked back at it for some reason it was communicating all FF's were there, and i could check all reading run pump etc.

As soon as i stopped the program and pressed initialize again it wouldnt connect, after some fiddling i have found that if i leave the program running then quickly disconnect the EAS ECU multiplug and plug it back in the program then starts communicating again.

Im a little baffled now and so is the seller (p38spares) i must say he has been excellent in trying to help sort the problem and is even contacting the creator of the software for advice so fingers crossed we get a solution.

In the meantime at least if it locks again i know how to get it to work but not ideal having to take seat base trim off every time, im also worried i might do the ECU damage by unplugging it whilst powered up??

Did take it on a drive and cycled through all height setting including highway mode and it all seems to be working as it should.

Any advice would be great and thanks again to everyone who has already offered advice, it really is appreciated.

At least im getting to know my way around the beast and so far every electrical connection has looked to be in excellent condition with no signps of corrosion.
 
Glynforster said:
Further developments.

I recieved a replacement usb/serial adapter today, tried it and still the same.

The driver is the one supplied by the seller on the cd and ive tried uninstalling the driver, installing it before connecting the adapter, even tried it with internet turned off just in case it was updating the driver but still nothing.

I decided to check all connections again and all look good also tried another relay in the fuse box, rechecked all fuses etc.

Whilst i was checking i left the program running and when i looked back at it for some reason it was communicating all FF's were there, and i could check all reading run pump etc.

As soon as i stopped the program and pressed initialize again it wouldnt connect, after some fiddling i have found that if i leave the program running then quickly disconnect the EAS ECU multiplug and plug it back in the program then starts communicating again.

Im a little baffled now and so is the seller (p38spares) i must say he has been excellent in trying to help sort the problem and is even contacting the creator of the software for advice so fingers crossed we get a solution.

In the meantime at least if it locks again i know how to get it to work but not ideal having to take seat base trim off every time, im also worried i might do the ECU damage by unplugging it whilst powered up??

Did take it on a drive and cycled through all height setting including highway mode and it all seems to be working as it should.

Any advice would be great and thanks again to everyone who has already offered advice, it really is appreciated.

At least im getting to know my way around the beast and so far every electrical connection has looked to be in excellent condition with no signps of corrosion.
Click to expand...

I take it you get the green "Good Idle" when you think it's connected? You sure you have the ignition key in the correct position?
I'd look for corrosion in the OBD connector front or back as a first step.
Unplugging the ECU whilst powered up is never a good idea.
You can also try changing the delay timings in the software, might just help.
Go look at www.rswsolutions.com site for more info on the software.
 
Datatek said:
I take it you get the green "Good Idle" when you think it's connected? You sure you have the ignition key in the correct position?
I'd look for corrosion in the OBD connector front or back as a first step.
Unplugging the ECU whilst powered up is never a good idea.
You can also try changing the delay timings in the software, might just help.
Go look at www.rswsolutions.com site for more info on the software.
Click to expand...

Hi Datatek

Yes when it connects i get the green good idle, ive tried with ignition in position 2 and also with engine running but still no good.

Ive checked the OBD connector both sides are fine.

Also tried the delay timers but no joy.

I have read elswhere on the forum that the EAS ECU remains active even with the ignition off and there is a way off changing the fuse position so it switches off with the ignition do you think this is a good idea??

Cheers Glyn

P.S the EAS is still working at the moment fingers crossed.
 
Glynforster said:
Hi Datatek

Yes when it connects i get the green good idle, ive tried with ignition in position 2 and also with engine running but still no good.

Ive checked the OBD connector both sides are fine.

Also tried the delay timers but no joy.

I have read elswhere on the forum that the EAS ECU remains active even with the ignition off and there is a way off changing the fuse position so it switches off with the ignition do you think this is a good idea??

Cheers Glyn

P.S the EAS is still working at the moment fingers crossed.
Click to expand...

Not a good idea. the EAS ECU wakes up every 6 hours to level the car, kill it and you could come back to the car at a crazy angle as one corner drops. Why interfere with something that works well most of the time?
 
Datatek said:
Not a good idea. the EAS ECU wakes up every 6 hours to level the car, kill it and you could come back to the car at a crazy angle as one corner drops. Why interfere with something that works well most of the time?
Click to expand...

True, some early diesels had problems with battery drain caused by EAS delay relay. But a simple fix of a resistor on the OBDII socket cured that. Also if your delay relay is faulty fit a new one.
 
Datatek said:
I take it you get the green "Good Idle" when you think it's connected? You sure you have the ignition key in the correct position?
I'd look for corrosion in the OBD connector front or back as a first step.
Unplugging the ECU whilst powered up is never a good idea.
You can also try changing the delay timings in the software, might just help.
Go look at www.rswsolutions.com site for more info on the software.
Click to expand...

Trouble free for a weeks but on the way to work this morning and here we go again EAS FAULT.

I had it in normal height with the inhibit switch on to stop it changing to motorway setting so wast changing height at the time.

Before i left for home this afternoon i plugged in the data cable and ran the EAS software and no communication again, this time i left the software running and took the fuse for the Eas (10a) out and back in and it connected and worked???.

Anyway the 2 faults were "vehicle has moved" and "pressure constantly high", i cleared the faults and its all working fine again, any idea what the problem could be??.

Cheers Glyn
 
Glynforster said:
Trouble free for a weeks but on the way to work this morning and here we go again EAS FAULT.

I had it in normal height with the inhibit switch on to stop it changing to motorway setting so wast changing height at the time.

Before i left for home this afternoon i plugged in the data cable and ran the EAS software and no communication again, this time i left the software running and took the fuse for the Eas (10a) out and back in and it connected and worked???.

Anyway the 2 faults were "vehicle has moved" and "pressure constantly high", i cleared the faults and its all working fine again, any idea what the problem could be??.
Cheers Glyn
Click to expand...
Pressure signal constantly high actually means lack of air pressure, however it is often caused by bad connections or a dodgy driver pack.
Just changed the driver pack on mine which has cured that problem.
 
Datatek said:
Pressure signal constantly high actually means lack of air pressure, however it is often caused by bad connections or a dodgy driver pack.
Just changed the driver pack on mine which has cured that problem.
Click to expand...

I cannot see how a driver pack can cure an air pressure fault, the driver pack has nothing to do with the compressor or air storage circuit.
 
Datatek said:
So you have said many times, the fact is it has cured the problem on mine and on several others.
Click to expand...

So it is said. But it is not connected to and does not control any part the compressor circuit. So if it cures the problem, it cures the problem, i just fail to see how it does it. :);)
 
wammers said:
So it is said. But it is not connected to and does not control any part the compressor circuit. So if it cures the problem, it cures the problem, i just fail to see how it does it. :);)
Click to expand...
Pressure signal constantly high actually means the pressure is low and not going to the upper limit, how about if the driver pack is playing with a valve and using the air?
 
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