New member with fuel filter problem - Freelander2

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2

236572J

New Member
Posts
8
Location
LOS BARRIOS, Spain
Hi,
To be honest I dont actually have a Freelander2 but a friend of mine does. I'm servicing it for her and have changed the oil and filter this afternoon. I moved on to the air and fuel filter next. Its a 2010 Diesel SD4 2179cc (S4F12F D5H4).
After photographing the old filter before removal, exchanging for a new one and connecting everything back up, including the engine cover and pipework, I started the car. It ran for about 2 seconds and stopped.
I checked the new filter but although connected OK, there was no fuel in it, judging by the weight.
I swapped the old one back on but still wont start. My best guess is that the pump isn't working.
Diesel isn't spewing out anywhere and everything is as per the original picture.
I would be grateful for any helpful suggestions, please. It was far easier to change than my 2004 Merc CLK which needed bleeding.
 
Welcome to the forum
I7pha4t.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hippo and Raywin, thank you very much for your advice. Is that sucking the fuel through to the opposite side of the arrow on the filter? or further. If so what needs to be disconnected to attach the vacuum pump to, please?

I had watched 2 Youtube videos on changing this and it was a simple exchange of filter, connect it up and start the car. Apparently not true!
 
Hi Yes, that is one that I watched. No mention of any priming. It took me about the same time to change the filter and try starting the car.
The other was not in english but the same starting sequence and no priming. If only!
They both gave me the confidence to do the job. Are there any that show the priming sequence, please?
 
Hi Hippo,
Again thank you so much for taking the time to reply and to send part 2 - something I wasn't aware of, - unsurprisingly!
I have one of those pumps and will give it a go in an hour or so's time. My wife broke her leg recently so much of the housework is down to me at the moment!)
My Mercedes diesel required a similar operation, when I changed the filter.
I will of course let you know how I get on.
 
Yes it's just a case of take off the discharge line and connect the pump to the exit pipe of the filter then suck the fuel through the filter until it comes out into a suitable container. Then quickly push the discharge pipe back onto the filter.
Its pretty easy I did mine last year and it fired up without so much as a hiccup after.
 
Hi Hippo, Well, success! I followed the video and carried all of the instructions, including bleeding at the rail and it eventually started. Phew!
Thank you for your detailed help and directions. I can't say how much I appreciate it.
Fancy posting a video that apparently shows it starting right up, followed by part 2 that says that you actually need to bleed the system. Anyway, the second one did the trick.
Thank you once again.
Now to change the brake fluid!
 
raywin said:
Yes it's just a case of take off the discharge line and connect the pump to the exit pipe of the filter then suck the fuel through the filter until it comes out into a suitable container. Then quickly push the discharge pipe back onto the filter.
Its pretty easy I did mine last year and it fired up without so much as a hiccup after.
Click to expand...
Hi Raywin,
Thank you for replying with the detail. Hippo also directed me to the video (part 2) of how to bleed the system, so armed with this and your comments, the car is working again, (after a sleepless night!)
It is great to know that people like you and Lord Hippo take the time to reply to people in need of help. Your comments are very gratefully received.
Thank you.
 
236572J said:
Hi Raywin,
Thank you for replying with the detail. Hippo also directed me to the video (part 2) of how to bleed the system, so armed with this and your comments, the car is working again, (after a sleepless night!)
It is great to know that people like you and Lord Hippo take the time to reply to people in need of help. Your comments are very gratefully received.
Thank you.
Click to expand...
No problem glad its OK now, hope you will be ready for the oil filter soon, it's a pig of a job
 
raywin said:
No problem glad its OK now, hope you will be ready for the oil filter soon, it's a pig of a job
Click to expand...
Hi, I did the oil and filter change first. Yes, it was difficult to get to the filter. What on earth made LR think that was a good position?
Anyway, I bought the appropriate spanner so that it made it as easy as it could be.
So that is all the filters changed, the oil and the brake fluid changed too. I found that the front brakes (pads) need to be changed so I just bought them from LR (They only cost an arm and a leg and another limb of my choice so changing them tomorrow might be difficult with my suddenly reduced mobility!!). Only joking, it should be a fairly easy job.
Just out of interest, do you find your car noisy? The noise from the back end is quite off putting. I know that the Freelander2 is effectively an estate car - rather then a "3 box saloon" but the transmission and tyres seem to make quite a racket.
 
Sorry yes I see you did the oil filter, it's not my idea of fun, but it helps if you grease the o ring on the housing it goes back better and comes off easier next time.
The back end noise COULD be one of the FL2s other bad points. The bearings in the rear diff pinion give up, mine started rumbling about 5 or 6 months ago at 35k miles, and quickly became louder, I took out the rear diff and had it re built, by a place near York put it back and it is very quiet now.
I also modified the casing by putting in a drain plug.
Take a look on the freel2 site:
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic23661.html?highlight=rear+duff

And here

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29814.html?highlight=rear+diff

But it might be a wheel bearing so do the checks before jumping in.
 
raywin said:
Sorry yes I see you did the oil filter, it's not my idea of fun, but it helps if you grease the o ring on the housing it goes back better and comes off easier next time.
The back end noise COULD be one of the FL2s other bad points. The bearings in the rear diff pinion give up, mine started rumbling about 5 or 6 months ago at 35k miles, and quickly became louder, I took out the rear diff and had it re built, by a place near York put it back and it is very quiet now.
I also modified the casing by putting in a drain plug.
Take a look on the freel2 site:
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic23661.html?highlight=rear+duff

And here

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29814.html?highlight=rear+diff

But it might be a wheel bearing so do the checks before jumping in.
Click to expand...
Hi Raywin,
Thank you for your reply and the links.
Frightening! The car has 67k km (41k easy miles). Never been off road so it would be desperately disappointing if it was a diff and even a wheel bearing shouldn't go at such a low distance.
Before I retired I was a Civil Servant and served in the Falklands for nearly 4 years. I had a new Defender part way through with decent offroad tyres. The Chief of Staff borrowed it for the weekend and I had his equally new Defender with G90 tyres. Within 3 miles, the engine in his quit. At 12000 miles, it needed a new engine. I wasn't in his good books for a while. Still, he had "my" Defender until his was fixed.
The number of Land Rovers that spend weeks in the garage was awful. So the cars were far from robust. The locals preferred Toyota's and Mitsubishi's to 'Rovers.
Anyway, other than changing the wiper blades, the service is complete. My friend will just need to turn the stereo up!
Thanks again.
 
236572J said:
Hi Raywin,
Thank you for your reply and the links.
Frightening! The car has 67k km (41k easy miles). Never been off road so it would be desperately disappointing if it was a diff and even a wheel bearing shouldn't go at such a low distance.
Before I retired I was a Civil Servant and served in the Falklands for nearly 4 years. I had a new Defender part way through with decent offroad tyres. The Chief of Staff borrowed it for the weekend and I had his equally new Defender with G90 tyres. Within 3 miles, the engine in his quit. At 12000 miles, it needed a new engine. I wasn't in his good books for a while. Still, he had "my" Defender until his was fixed.
The number of Land Rovers that spend weeks in the garage was awful. So the cars were far from robust. The locals preferred Toyota's and Mitsubishi's to 'Rovers.
Anyway, other than changing the wiper blades, the service is complete. My friend will just need to turn the stereo up!
Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Dont want to cause alarm but if its only the bearing a diff re build can be done for just over £300 if you strip it out and re assemble it yourself, if the pinion or crown gears get damaged then it's a new diff.
Sorry to be so blunt, but best to know.
 
236572J said:
Hippo and Raywin, thank you very much for your advice. Is that sucking the fuel through to the opposite side of the arrow on the filter? or further. If so what needs to be disconnected to attach the vacuum pump to, please?

I had watched 2 Youtube videos on changing this and it was a simple exchange of filter, connect it up and start the car. Apparently not true!
Click to expand...
There's a Haynes video on YouTube that shows how to prime the filter. Sorry don't have the link.
 
Hippo helped mine out the other Saturday, I had primed it a wee bit, then did the over to self prime but engaging ignition then occasional turning over on the change. Fingers crossed it all goes.
 
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