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New member new owner and need help PLEASE!!

Discussion in 'Land Rover Discovery' started by Rol840, Jun 14, 2019 at 10:13 PM.

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  1. Rol840

    Rol840 Member

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    Hi all
    I'm new on here and new to land rover ownership just a few days ago I traded my jaguar xf for a 2006 discovery 3 tdv6 hse auto.
    Has everything I wanted but after just a couple of hours of owning it the seller has blocked all my calls ect and it seems to be failing me more and more every day. please forgive me if I'm not allowed to post on here.
    I have a problem and I'm pulling my hair out its driving me mad.
    The whole radio and nav system closes down and comes back on whenever it feels like it about every 30 - 60 seconds.
    I get a relay click from fuse box area when switches on and off and randomly will either come on with door unlock or ignition and sometimes won't.
    Iv checked all fuses and connections on back of the head unit and the screen and nothing to see.
    I'm really hoping to find some help on here as I'm at a total loss and rapidly falling out with a car that I really wanted
    The radio when it's on works as it should as well as the touchscreen and all volume ect the display also comes up and says phone disconnected everytime it powers back on but not sure if that's normal or not as its never stayed on long enough to attempt to connect a phone.
    Iv just tried a hard reset and all that seems to have done is stop the o/s/r door from unlocking so can't open from inside or out
    I also have a slight hunting/surging when driving the revs go up and down and its really annoying.
    I'm beginning to think iv bought a lemon.
    I really wanted a disco and now after just a few days I'm beginning to hate it.
    Thank you in advance and I'm hoping for any help at all
     
  2. DanClarke

    DanClarke Well-Known Member

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    Private sale?
    Seller blocking/ignoring your calls says something I think.
    The guys on here will do their best to help I am sure.
    Best Wishes.
     
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  3. Si Click

    Si Click Well-Known Member

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    OK, welcome to the forum. Have you attached any kind of diagnostic tool to your D3? A LR-specific one would be ideal as that should be able to interrogate the relevant ECUs, but a decent OBDII reader should give you some idea of the problem. The other thing you might want to do is study a wiring diagram in order to see if all of the affected items route through a common earth. You could get lucky and find it is just a dodgy earth. However, you might equally find that it is something like a faulty entertainment control unit. If that is the diagnosis then I would have a search on t'internet to find a company that will fix the existing unit. I'm not familiar with the D3 security system, but if it is anything like my V70 a replacement unit would have to be coded to the car and that needs to be done by a dealer who will only code a new unit they have supplied. Volvo wanted £1200 to supply and fit one to my V70.
     
  4. kermit_rr

    kermit_rr Well-Known Member

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    I'd be checking the simple things first, if the relay is clicking, can you swap with another one of the same type? Check the feed to the relay and has already been said, check the earth - bad earth can show all kinds of weird symptoms
     
  5. Si Click

    Si Click Well-Known Member

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    Thinking about it. A loose negative battery terminal could give similar symptoms, you might want to check your terminals are tight first and then give your battery a health check. What resting voltage do you get with everything turned off, and what do you get with the engine running?
     
  6. Rol840

    Rol840 Member

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    Yes private sale from miles away so I'm less than happy
     
  7. DanClarke

    DanClarke Well-Known Member

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    What's the battery like?
    All new LR's need/want/demand a tip-top condition battery or they throw hissy-fits.
    Get it on some diagnostics asap.
     
  8. Rol840

    Rol840 Member

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    Thanks all
    Iv had my delphi system plugged in and no faults found although wouldn't connect to radio for some reason which makes me think its some sort of ecu that's got an issue
    Checked battery terminals fitted brand new battery, checked for bad earth's by passenger footwell and all dry and tight.
    Seems strange that when it goes off the sat nav screen sometimes stays on and other times goes off. If I switch the radio off the display and clock ect just powers on and off as well as the sat nav screen.
    It is just like a bad connection but when iv pulled the stereo out iv had tester on all the power feeds and when it does go off I don't lose any power feeds or earth's
     
  9. Rol840

    Rol840 Member

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    I'm also worrying its a gearbox or torque convertor fault causing the hunting or surging but on diagnostics gearbox all seems good with no faults and checked transmission fluid all nice and clean and at the proper level.
    Anyone want to buy a used lemon?
     
  10. kermit_rr

    kermit_rr Well-Known Member

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    If it's a brand new battery you've just bought, put it on charge overnight to get a good charge in it then see how you get on
     
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  11. kermit_rr

    kermit_rr Well-Known Member

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    Low battery can also cause gearbox problems
     
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  12. Rol840

    Rol840 Member

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    I will try that now thank you
     
  13. Si Click

    Si Click Well-Known Member

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    Not a lemon yet, if this is it's only fault and the chassis, bodywork, engine, transmission and air suspension are fine, then it's just a bit lemon-scented.
    Electrickery is a pain on these more modern cars and this might take a while and some cash to resolve, but hopefully in the end you will get a car you can love.
    If Delphi cannot connect to the audio control ECU that might indeed be a clue. A D3 configured Nanocom or a Hawkeye Total might be able to give better analysis, otherwise (and this is heresy around here), you might want to get a dealer to see if they can trace the fault.
     
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  14. 1988smithy

    1988smithy Well-Known Member

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    Regarding revs surging, does it 'kangaroo' at steady load, do revs rise with no or little performance/clutch slip? Could point towards torque converter. Don't give up on it yet, they're awesome cars and well worth persevering with.

    You wanna see a lemon? This ones feckin sour ;)
    20190416_134529.jpg
    20190610_170201.jpg
    20190611_151636.jpg

    Had front diff out once and it's prob coming out again, 2 front wheel bearings, front prop, front upper control arms, it's got an intermittent suspension fault, C/L works when it feels like it etc etc :eek::D
     
  15. Rol840

    Rol840 Member

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    It's not rotton so I suppose it's got something going for it haha
    Its worse up hill and feels almost like it's not sure what gear it should be in.
    Not so much kangaroo but can feel it surge doesn't really seem to slip.
    I can't really decide if it's gearbox or engine related it's almost like it could be power coming on and off if that makes sense.
     
  16. 1988smithy

    1988smithy Well-Known Member

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    Cheeky fooker, it ay rotten just a bit...scabby :D with...rot...

    Hmm dunno then, mine's manual, only experience I have of the autos is driving a fellow forumer's (?) who suspects his torque converter is poo, I can relate it to what you're saying about yours but it needs diagnosing properly. Could be worth banging some dr.tranny in the box (hurrhurr)

    Have you had a look at www.disco3.co.uk ? Loads of info and tech advice, I'm gonna tag @gstuart r.e your electrickery, he's a bit of a guru on here
     
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  17. Rol840

    Rol840 Member

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    I'd rather mine was rotton to be fair I'm a bit handy with a welder lol
    Electrics fry my head a bit although not too bad with them once I work out the logic behind them but this is baffling me now.
    As for gearbox I'm just a bit confused by no fault codes in engine or gearbox one thing I have noticed is it gets worse as it warms up from cold doesn't seem too bad.
    Oil looks nice and fresh although Im now wondering if its been filled with the wrong stuff as I bought some recommended oil for it which is atf and pink/red and the oil that's in is yellow/clear more like the cvt type.
    Anyway I just hope I can get to the bottom of it all before I spit my dummy out and sell it at a big loss just to get rid of it lol
    Thanks mate fingers crossed gstuart can help me with the electrics
    Thanks again
     
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  18. 1988smithy

    1988smithy Well-Known Member

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    @Henry_b is the man for these auto boxes, red oil rings alarm bells
     
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  19. 1988smithy

    1988smithy Well-Known Member

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    Any independent specialists by you? I can recommend RK Automotive in Tamworth and Roean in Telford but if you're handy with spanners etc don't fall out of love with it yet lol
     
  20. Henry_b

    Henry_b Well-Known Member

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    Appears out of nowhere.
    Dextron fluid will kill the 6hp26.

    The recommended fluid is ZF LIFEGARD 6 Shell M1375.4 etc it is designed specifically for this gearbox, the viscosity and additive package is specific for the internal clutches and valves without this you will cause damage..

    Dex fluid is simply not good enough and doesn't have the correct additive package for this gearbox..

    ZF fluid is a Straw colour..

    This transmission is usually serviced by people who have no clue and just bung any old stuff in it, that is why I generally recommend a indepandant do it with knowledge of these vehicles.

    Many argue that any fluid meeting shell m1375.4 is compatible, but as with everything oil quality varies depending on manufacturer, and TBH the OE route is cheaper than a new gearbox because of inferior fluid,

    1 A New Oil pan, it's also the filter!
    2 New oil fill plug
    3 21 t40 bolts for the sump
    4 New Tcm adaptor seal.
    5 7-8 litres of Lifegard 6.

    Many manufacturers state they make alternative kits for half the price, IMO it isnt worth it.

    PROCEDURE..

    1 Remove Oil Filler Plug (T50)
    2) Remove Oil Drain Plug and Replace Plug after all transmission oil runs out.

    3) Remove all 21 T27 or T40s depending on whether its previously been serviced from around the pan and drop it, inspect the magnets inside for any debris

    4) Loosen and remove the TCM connector from the back of the gearbox, remove the seal and replace with new one, + Not to be confused with the one that sits under the Valvebody.

    4.5 Remove the Valvebody and replace the Megatronix seal, If you want too ;)

    5) Install the new Oil pan and torque the pan bolts to 10nm in the correct "pattern" to ensure it doesn't warp!
    [​IMG]

    5 Having loosened the fill plug first "T50" add in fluid till it flows out of the hole initial fill is around 3-4 litres

    6) The transmission fluid temperature must be between 30°C and 35°C before checking can begin. use an infrared thermal gun aimed at the bottom of the pan

    7) The vehicle must be level with engine running at idle speed.

    8) Step on the brakes firmly, apply parking brake and shift to P R N D waiting for 3 seconds in each gear.

    9) With the engine running at idle speed and the selector in Park position, remove the filler plug. And Monitor the transmission temperature, at 40°C, add fluid 'till it flows out the fill

    10) If no oil runs out when the filler plug is removed, the fluid level is too low and oil needs to be added
    until it overflows.

    11) With engine running, install the oil filler plug and tighten to proper torque. 25nm.

    Now it goes without saying, don't turn the engine off and then add the fill plug as the fluid from the converter and oil cooler will flow back and **** out the filler hole, you have been warned. ;)
    4-6 litres added to the sump denotes a correct fluid change.

    The ZF Transmission will leak out of the 1) the sump and 2) the TCM adaptor seal. After a period of time, this often goes unnoticed and causes the fluid to run low and ultimately ruin the box.
    This is probably the No1 reason for 6hp failure,
    that and abuse ;)

    It's worth checking an potential purchase to make sure it doesn't leak.


    LURCHES.

    This is a common fault caused by an electrical gremlin that tends to fault some 6HP26 gearboxes.

    Type 1 Lurch: The gearbox kicks into a lower gear (usually gently) as it changes down through the gears when you are gradually slowing down, foot off the accelerator, usually without braking.

    Type 2 Lurch: As you accelerate, the gearbox seems to hesitate in neutral for a split second, the Engine revs a bit, and then the gearbox slams into gear with a sharp hard jerk, and the car leaps forward, like when you drop the clutch at 2000+ revs in a manual car. Usually this happens as you accelerate from a slow roll, for example when you slow down at a roundabout or traffic lights but don't need to stop, then you accelerate hard.


    Both of these can be fixed with a re-flash of the gearbox ECU this is around £60 depending on the place.

    Another less common/rare cause for the above is a broken valvebody to gearbox seal..

    This one, its worth replacing this when you're servicing it, so do it!

    it's easy you just drop the valvebody and its right there, 10min job, on top of the time for a service of course ;)
    https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...hUKEwjb6uXJ86_gAhW56KYKHZ-aCuYQ9aACCD8&adurl=

    It sits under the Valvebody and as the name suggests seals the valvebody to the gearbox, if this breaks the pressure drops it'll cause the above, and also a slur between gear changes and a delay when changing gears D-R for example will take a few seconds..


    The use of the wrong fluid will also cause the above..

    A Flush and a re-flash might fix it..

    Bit the fluid ain't cheap..

    THIS IS A COPY/PASTE OF MY THREAD IN MY SIG,,

    PLEASE FEEL FREE TO READ THE FULL THREAD> h
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2019 at 1:14 AM
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