New Glowplugs or a resync?

When my alarm sounded after a battery disconnect I had to enter the EKA code to shut it up.

Steve

Update
Spoke to Rick the Pick today- what a helpful bloke.
Anyway as advised, check connections is basically what the red light means on the syncmate.
1. passgenger footwells where the bonnet release levers are- pop them off- i broke one there are conectors there- check them- all ok here.
2. big round connector under the expansion tank- all ok here.
3. Odbc port check for loose wires or corrosion- all ok here.
4. In fuse box under bonnet check for burning smell and check every relay and fuse- all ok here
5. to stop the fecking alarm going when you disconnect- quick insert key into ignition and press unlock on the fob.
tried the syncmate again still a red single flash. W A M F.
I could see the interior lights getting dim, so didn't even try to start it.
Anyway Battery back on charge tonight.

One thing I should have tried is the EKA sequence- but i forgot- fecking brain freeze-its a bit nippy out there.

BTW I did disconnect/reconnect the becm connections while the battery positive was disconnected just make sure nothing was loose.

anymore ideas or something I might have missed?

I'm gonna have another look at the fusebox, I have read a few more things about this causing connection problems.
Is it simply the 3 bolts and the multicoloured muticonnectors to swap it out?
What does a burnt out one look like ? It smells plastic and electrical but I don't think burnt????
Can they be repaired?

You need to take it apart and look at the printed circuit boards. Can be repaired with patience and a good soldering iron.

To be honest, I dont think I would know what i would be looking at- i stare at maps of central london in the same way. I can recognise some thing burnt, ut as for dry solder joints, no clue how to fix them. saying that there probably is something on YouTube. the big red cable going in the box - how do i disconnect it?
or will it all become much simpler when i try to remove it. Im just wonderin why they didnt make the fuse box a bit more weather proof- like the air filter box. another crap design, might be ok if you live in a desert.

Datatek said:

You need to take it apart and look at the printed circuit boards. Can be repaired with patience and a good soldering iron.

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ok- update.
Fuse box is out, unbolted the red cable, unplugged all the multi connectors and unbolted those 3 brown wires.
On closer inspection in the warm, i removed all the relays and fuses, had a good sniff. hmmm not much of a whiff apart from plastic.
anyway removed black panel so I can see the top of the board- looks pristine. no crud corrosion or scorch marks anywhere- on either side. no smell either. all the pin holders are very shiney.

the only burny type smell i get is from the actual relay tray- the black one-

even the individual relays dont smell or have scorch marks

so question.
What do check on the board and how? It looks like a board folded in half, and that i need to cut hose pins and resolder them, sounds like big mission...who else has done it?
do components fail without a burn mark?
is there any continuity testing that can be done- im sure there is but have no clue how to do it!!

Datatek said:

Check the in tank pump is working. The glowplug relay can be checked by putting a volt meter between the top of the glowplugs and earth, then with the glowplug light on you should have a good 12 volts.

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Where is the glowplug relay and what does it look like ?

Glowplug relay I believe is inside the engine ecu box behind the battery, I'm gonna have a look today inside mine, if it stops snowing !

I also need to put my fuse box back.

TAKdriver said:

Where is the glowplug relay and what does it look like ?

Click to expand...

Hello all. new to the forum as finaly got myself a '98 P38 2.5DSE.
A few problems with it which i could really do with some help as never worked on one of these before. firstly when i got the vehicle you needed to turn ignition on and off 5 times to warm the plugs enough to start, no after replacing them you still need to do it 2-3 times to get it started....
the other issue is no hot air from passenger side, ive already tried changing the heater control panel, this hasnt worked, so now it looks like a dash out job to change the heat blending module which it seems controls the fans, now what im not sure about is, do the fans also control the cold/hot mix? if so will changing these cure the problem.....
thank you for yopur help.
regards
Mike

RangeyMick said:

Hello all. new to the forum as finaly got myself a '98 P38 2.5DSE.
A few problems with it which i could really do with some help as never worked on one of these before. firstly when i got the vehicle you needed to turn ignition on and off 5 times to warm the plugs enough to start, no after replacing them you still need to do it 2-3 times to get it started....
the other issue is no hot air from passenger side, ive already tried changing the heater control panel, this hasnt worked, so now it looks like a dash out job to change the heat blending module which it seems controls the fans, now what im not sure about is, do the fans also control the cold/hot mix? if so will changing these cure the problem.....
thank you for yopur help.
regards
Mike

Click to expand...

OEM glowplugs or cheapo? Cheapo ones are no good.

The other problem is probably blend motors. All the gen at www.rangerovers.net
If it's no air rather than no hot air check relays 6 & 7 and smell the fuse box for signs of burning

I don't think the sync mate really works in all cases. I'm sending my becm, ecu and keyfob to callrova for a diagnostic/repair and resync. I just don't know what else to try.
I have disconnected the blue wire on the rf receiver, hopefully this should stop the becm from either waking up or getting confused.
Have I missed something?

Thanks for that. appreciate it. hmmm! probably were cheapo so have now ordered OEM. there is cold air blowing so most probably will be the air blend units. hopefully. thanks again.

when you plug the sync mate in do you have the ignition turned on when i use mine i turn the ignition so the battery lights come on then plug it in goes blue if there was a prob it goes red then to green to say its clear

I normally have the ignition set to position 1, I then plug it in and the blue light comes on then I get a single red flash.

I have checked all physical connections, I can't seem to find anything, so I have deduced it has to be in the becm. Hence me wanting to send it to callrova.

Rangerover.net has stated that trying the eka code might fix it. Last thing to try in the morning.

Tempted to open up the becm, but not sure how to fix it with decent instructions.

p38on22s said:

when you plug the sync mate in do you have the ignition turned on when i use mine i turn the ignition so the battery lights come on then plug it in goes blue if there was a prob it goes red then to green to say its clear

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Canyon said:

I don't think the sync mate really works in all cases. I'm sending my becm, ecu and keyfob to callrova for a diagnostic/repair and resync. I just don't know what else to try.
I have disconnected the blue wire on the rf receiver, hopefully this should stop the becm from either waking up or getting confused.
Have I missed something?

Click to expand...

Hope this works out for you,Rick knows his stuff and is probably closer than me,cheers Jon.

Canyon said:

Glowplug relay I believe is inside the engine ecu box behind the battery, I'm gonna have a look today inside mine, if it stops snowing !

I also need to put my fuse box back.

Click to expand...

I knew it was inside the ECU box behind the battery but when I looked in I didn't see what I recognised as a relay : is it more like a junction box ?