New fuel pump?

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O Bife

Active Member
Posts
409
Location
Almada, Portugal
Hi all,

Last week my RR's fuel pump died and I got a new one fitted last Friday. Apart from the re-start after the fitting she seemed to be ok, firing up on the first turn-over like she always has done.

Now later on, on Friday night, after being parked up for about an hour and a half, when I went and turn the key she didn't fire up as normal and it took a fair few turn-overs before she took. I turned her off after about a minute and tried her again, first turn-over and she was running.

Over this weekend she has repeated this with not firing up straight away after being off for, what I have now found to be even just half an hour or more. This afternoon, after being parked up since last night, she took 3 attempts before firing up, but then she fired up straight away when I turned her off for a few minutes.

Anyone got any ideas what could be wrong?
 
It was the fuel pump in the tank.

As to what make, not sure as I ended up buying one here in Portugal. I do know it was originally from the UK, but as I just said, not sure who made it. Are Britpart ones a bit suspect then?
 
It was the fuel pump in the tank.

As to what make, not sure as I ended up buying one here in Portugal. I do know it was originally from the UK, but as I just said, not sure who made it. Are Britpart ones a bit suspect then?


There have been a few reported fails of Britpart lift pumps.
 
I have a sneaky feeling the new pump I have had fitted is a Britpart one. Have I gone and made a balls up?

It's still playing up even after my mechanic re-did all the small hoses above the injectors and checked all the injectors themselves.

Now, there are a few things that have got us thinking and they are as follows:


  1. The new pump did not come with any form of "O-ring"/gasket (in the RAVE file it say make sure you change the old one for a new one when refitting)
  2. We did not find any other "O-rings" on any other of the connections (hoses etc)
  3. Would undoing the pipe which goes into the actual injector pump and then bleeding the fuel through until all the bubbles are cleared work?
Are the pumps made by BEARMACH any good compared to the Britpart ones?
 
I have a sneaky feeling the new pump I have had fitted is a Britpart one. Have I gone and made a balls up?

It's still playing up even after my mechanic re-did all the small hoses above the injectors and checked all the injectors themselves.

Now, there are a few things that have got us thinking and they are as follows:


  1. The new pump did not come with any form of "O-ring"/gasket (in the RAVE file it say make sure you change the old one for a new one when refitting)
  2. We did not find any other "O-rings" on any other of the connections (hoses etc)
  3. Would undoing the pipe which goes into the actual injector pump and then bleeding the fuel through until all the bubbles are cleared work?
Are the pumps made by BEARMACH any good compared to the Britpart ones?

Well seeing as how that is the correct method of bleeding the system i think it may have a fair chance of success.
 
Well seeing as how that is the correct method of bleeding the system i think it may have a fair chance of success.

Ah ha, now one (2 really) did not know that, nor was it mentioned in the Rave thingy.

The mighty Wammers strikes again. Thank you:)

But, if the problem persists, could it have anything to do with the other things I mentioned?
 
Ah ha, now one (2 really) did not know that, nor was it mentioned in the Rave thingy.

The mighty Wammers strikes again. Thank you:)

But, if the problem persists, could it have anything to do with the other things I mentioned?

The gasket is just for stopping the pump top leaking that cannot effect the starting. Have you done the fuel flow test? If you are not getting good flow it will effect hot starting as pump is only active when engine is cranked. Get the air out and see how it is then. Bleed the system then when you get the engine running crack an injector open to get any air out of the internals of the FIP.
 
Be careful not to get tunnel vision over the pump. If whilst you're cranking the engine you get a good spurt of fuel from the (disconnected) clear pipe under the bonnet then the pump is doing it's thing.
If so then I'd be checking the glow plugs.
 
If it's not starting from cold take a look at the ECU temp sensor. When you say after left for a while, do the glow plugs come on, or is the engine still too warm for them to work?
 
It sounds more and more like it being a bleed problem (which we did not think about at the time). I'm no mechanic, but we put new glows in just under 2 years ago so they should be still up to scratch I would have thought.

When we turn the key to 2nd position we can see air bubbles running through the pipes (the ones leading into the main fuel filter) so by that we came to the conclusion that the pump does work.

Getting back to the glows. Right up to the morning when I found the pump to be dead there was no sign of starting problems, as I mentioned before, she fired up every time within the first turn over. In that respect, she has always been great even in the coldest we get over here.

Right, looks like Monday will be spent under the bonnet. I will let you all know the outcome.

Thanks for all the help so far.
 
Bleed it then. With engine cold, because fuel pump will only run with ignition whilst glow plugs are on. Crack banjo at FIP and get someone to cycle key to keep glows lit. When all air is gone nip up banjo. See what you get then. If you crack an injector open whilst engine is running it will vent any air for inside FIP.
 
Bleed it then. With engine cold, because fuel pump will only run with ignition whilst glow plugs are on. Crack banjo at FIP and get someone to cycle key to keep glows lit. When all air is gone nip up banjo. See what you get then. If you crack an injector open whilst engine is running it will vent any air for inside FIP.

Cheers Wammers;)
 
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