Freelander 1 New Clutch

Not sure what the problem is, but if its cranking its not immobilised unless the loom has been altered.

Loom looks pretty standard. But I'm not an expert. My mate is auto electrician work for big dealer so maybe he can point me in the right direction. Reading through post my key is flatblade with separate two button fob if that helps.

I have a similar fault with my spare fl. Cranks for ages but won't start. I have to crank it for 10 mins until the battery is flat and then swap batteries, it starts fairly easy then. Guess I need a new battery and move it somewhere I can jump start it. Once it's started it starts everytime, so try a new battery or jump start ☺

So if your getting spark and it's trying to crank, then it must be fuel or immobiliser related. Have you check any fuel cut off switches?
You might have a knock it while taking the box out. Is the fuel pump priming? I'm assuming it's petrol, but on the diesels the fuel pump is notorious for just seizing. A gentle bit of persuasion with a steel toe cap usually does the trick, the pump on diesels is located in the rear driver side arch behind the arch lining, unsure of location on petrols.

It's a petrol. Yes pump is priming and You can hear it working. Spark as usual and when cranking it floods with petrol. Checked wiring and all cables. Seams ok. I will have a look during a week maybe its immo. Is it possible that it reset itself when battery was disconnected? Rear window dropped but i think it's normal with battery out. Checked the inertia switch on firewall but nothing. Driving a horrible vectra at the momen. Pain in the...

Well the vehicle was running fine before the clutch replacement, so it must be related to a lose or poor connection somewhere. I'm not sure of layout of wire harness on the K series, but if it was me I would check every sensor in the area, even the ones that were not removed. Have you checked the crank sensor? if thats been knocked/damaged during work that will give you the symptoms your explaining. Failing that take the earth lead off the battery for 10 min and see if it works.

I'm no mechanic but from personal experiences it's usually down to human error.

Thanks. I will have a look next week as it sits on the yard in my mates garage. Might have moved something.

If its cranking that's 1 sign its not immobilised. If its getting fuel in the cylinders, I'm pretty sure that's another sign its not immobilised. If you're seeing a spark, there's another sign its not immobilised. I hazard a guess to say if its cranking, you're getting fuel and a spark - its not immobilised!

I would also hazard a guess that its pretty cold up in Scotland at the mo - so if your ECT is stuffed or not connected, you may not be getting enough fuel. My son's Rover T Series has a stuffed ECT and won't start when its cold - I have a spare K Series ECT and if I plug that in (not installed as its the wrong size) it starts first time. If your mate has diagnostics - you could see what the ECU thinks the coolant temp is.

As @Craig_evs says, could also be a timing issue, ie the spark and/or fuel injection is not happening at the right time. Presumably the MEMS ECU uses the crank sensor for timing during start up - so as he says, that's a good thing to check.

Will try to have a look. It didn't show any error codes on diagnostics so will see. Maybe loose cable or something easy. It did went on the ramps at it's own devices.

Any joy with the issue?

Didn't this issue turn out to be the timing belt had slipped?

Yep it is. 200 to 250 quid to rectify the problem. That's with all new valves, new gasket, oil and filter change and new head bolts. All new seals. So it's getting started this saturday. Big strip and assessment. Might not need 16 new valves. But they very cheap about 7 quid each. New gasket set and bolts. Will have coolant flush and oil service.

Lukas430000 said:

Yep it is. 200 to 250 quid to rectify the problem. That's with all new valves, new gasket, oil and filter change and new head bolts. All new seals. So it's getting started this saturday. Big strip and assessment. Might not need 16 new valves. But they very cheap about 7 quid each. New gasket set and bolts. Will have coolant flush and oil service.

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Which gasket kit are you going for? MLS or Elastomer?

It's unlikely to need all 16 valves. Most times it's the inlets on 2 cylinders and exhaust valves on the other 2 cylinders.
I'd measure the liner hights before choosing the MLS gasket. Or just use the blue elastopolymer Payen gasket.

I will have a look tomorrow when stripping. What are rough measurements? Can I be able to see if cylinder liners dropped? Head gasket looks like it have been changed not so long ago. So is water pump.

Lukas430000 said:

I will have a look tomorrow when stripping. What are rough measurements? Can I be able to see if cylinder liners dropped? Head gasket looks like it have been changed not so long ago. So is water pump.

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You measure the liner hights in relation to each other and in relation to the block. Liner difference between each other vary by more than 1 thou, the MLS gasket can't be used. If the liners are level with the block, don't use the MLS gasket. If accurate measurements can't be taken, or you are unsure. Fit that blue elastopolymer Payen head gasket

Cheers Nodge.
Always glad to get help from more experienced members.

I've heard a few people say they wouldn't take the chance and just fit the elastomer as it's more forgiving and will probably last nearly as long.