New chassis?

I was intending to weld a patch onto the chassis of my 1997 D90 300tdi
to get it through the MOT.

Tapping away to find solid steel to weld onto, I demolished a section
about 15 inches by 3 inches down one side. The same thing happened
when I started tapping along the under side of the chassis! I stopped
tapping when it was obvious I was going to end up with a pile of rust!

Obviously, I either need break this vehicle for spares or fit a new
chassis.

What are the pro's and con's of doing the latter? For the first time,
I have a nice new barn with a level concrete floor to work on and
plenty of time. Could this be achieved by one man working with pulleys
and levers? And who makes the best chassis for the money?

(Thank goodness I had the foresight to buy another Landy so I am at
least mobile!).

Derry

Pros: If looked after, your new chassis (highly recommend getting a galvanised one) will probably outlast you.

Cons: Probably a lot of work (I'm thinking of doing the same to my SIII, but we have a 3 tonne digger to help and an 10,000lbs winch).

Places to get one: I'm fairly confident that if I get one it'll be from Marslands (Google them), people like Paddock Spares seem to get their supplies from them. Just a note if you're interested, I looked into delivery costs (just sent an email to them) and for them to deliver to me in SW Wales it was going to be £120, which considering what's being delivered isn't bad.

[email protected] <[email protected]> uttered summat
worrerz funny about:
> I was intending to weld a patch onto the chassis of my 1997 D90 300tdi
> to get it through the MOT.
>
> Tapping away to find solid steel to weld onto, I demolished a section
> about 15 inches by 3 inches down one side. The same thing happened
> when I started tapping along the under side of the chassis! I stopped
> tapping when it was obvious I was going to end up with a pile of rust!
>
> Obviously, I either need break this vehicle for spares or fit a new
> chassis.
>
> What are the pro's and con's of doing the latter? For the first time,
> I have a nice new barn with a level concrete floor to work on and
> plenty of time. Could this be achieved by one man working with pulleys
> and levers? And who makes the best chassis for the money?
>
> (Thank goodness I had the foresight to buy another Landy so I am at
> least mobile!).
>
> Derry

Surely this has to be a joke?

Has it been used in salt water? I've a 1964 IIa on the drive that is looking
like it needs a new chassis, that is acceptable.

Anyone know what thickness or not (as the case appears) Landrover used on
the more modern 90 such as these?

Lee D

Lee_D wrote:
> [email protected] <[email protected]> uttered summat
> worrerz funny about:
>
>>I was intending to weld a patch onto the chassis of my 1997 D90 300tdi
>>to get it through the MOT.
>>
>>Tapping away to find solid steel to weld onto, I demolished a section
>>about 15 inches by 3 inches down one side. The same thing happened
>>when I started tapping along the under side of the chassis! I stopped
>>tapping when it was obvious I was going to end up with a pile of rust!
>>
>>Obviously, I either need break this vehicle for spares or fit a new
>>chassis.
>>
>>What are the pro's and con's of doing the latter? For the first time,
>>I have a nice new barn with a level concrete floor to work on and
>>plenty of time. Could this be achieved by one man working with pulleys
>>and levers? And who makes the best chassis for the money?
>>
>>(Thank goodness I had the foresight to buy another Landy so I am at
>>least mobile!).
>>
>>Derry
>
>
> Surely this has to be a joke?
>
> Has it been used in salt water? I've a 1964 IIa on the drive that is looking
> like it needs a new chassis, that is acceptable.
>
> Anyone know what thickness or not (as the case appears) Landrover used on
> the more modern 90 such as these?
>
> Lee D


Welcome back, Derry.

There's some past history on this 90, Lee. Brake callipers so corroded
that the pads fell out the back come to mind.

It can be a one man job. I re-chassied a IIa single-handed with just a
cheap engine crane for the heavier lifts. This however was a total
rebuild from little bits: were you thinking of lifting the whole body
off in one piece? (Practice for your D3 when it comes along!)

Whether or not it will be worth it is another matter. Only you know
the state of the rest of it but with the work you've previously put in
it might make sense.

[email protected] wrote:
> I was intending to weld a patch onto the chassis of my 1997 D90 300tdi
> to get it through the MOT.
>
> Tapping away to find solid steel to weld onto, I demolished a section
> about 15 inches by 3 inches down one side. The same thing happened
> when I started tapping along the under side of the chassis! I stopped
> tapping when it was obvious I was going to end up with a pile of rust!
>
> Obviously, I either need break this vehicle for spares or fit a new
> chassis.
>
> What are the pro's and con's of doing the latter? For the first time,
> I have a nice new barn with a level concrete floor to work on and
> plenty of time. Could this be achieved by one man working with pulleys
> and levers? And who makes the best chassis for the money?
>
> (Thank goodness I had the foresight to buy another Landy so I am at
> least mobile!).
>
> Derry

Oh goodness me! My local Land Rover specialist was right. They don't make
them like they used to. He did mention that 1990's chassis rusted badly but
I never imagined that they were *that* bad.

My 1984 went through this years MOT with just a small patch on an outrigger.
Its first.
The engine however is not getting any better. But it got through the MOT
[sympathetic tester maybe] and to my amazement it is still in daily use. I
do have an Isuzu engine in reserve, just in case. The chassis is certainly
good enough despite a wash once a year [guess when ;-) ] and being
permanently blasted with cow**** all Summer and salty water for four months
every Winter.

Huw

In message <[email protected]>
"Huw" <hedydd[nospam]@tiscali.co.uk> wrote:

> [email protected] wrote:
> > I was intending to weld a patch onto the chassis of my 1997 D90 300tdi
> > to get it through the MOT.
> >
> > Tapping away to find solid steel to weld onto, I demolished a section
> > about 15 inches by 3 inches down one side. The same thing happened
> > when I started tapping along the under side of the chassis! I stopped
> > tapping when it was obvious I was going to end up with a pile of rust!
> >
> > Obviously, I either need break this vehicle for spares or fit a new
> > chassis.
> >
> > What are the pro's and con's of doing the latter? For the first time,
> > I have a nice new barn with a level concrete floor to work on and
> > plenty of time. Could this be achieved by one man working with pulleys
> > and levers? And who makes the best chassis for the money?
> >
> > (Thank goodness I had the foresight to buy another Landy so I am at
> > least mobile!).
> >
> > Derry
>
> Oh goodness me! My local Land Rover specialist was right. They don't make
> them like they used to. He did mention that 1990's chassis rusted badly but
> I never imagined that they were *that* bad.
>
> My 1984 went through this years MOT with just a small patch on an outrigger.
> Its first.
> The engine however is not getting any better. But it got through the MOT
> [sympathetic tester maybe] and to my amazement it is still in daily use. I
> do have an Isuzu engine in reserve, just in case. The chassis is certainly
> good enough despite a wash once a year [guess when ;-) ] and being
> permanently blasted with cow**** all Summer and salty water for four months
> every Winter.
>
> Huw
>
>
I'd hazard a guess this vehicle worked through the Foot & Mouth
episode, in which case it was probably well doused with the
antisceptic, which is an amazing rust enhancer if not washed off.
That stuff has finished off a huge number of vehicles of all
makes.

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
www.radioparadise.com - Good Music, No Vine
Lib Dems - Townies keeping comedy alive

On Mon, 06 Nov 2006 23:07:09 +0000, Dougal
<DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote:

>Lee_D wrote:
>> [email protected] <[email protected]> uttered summat
>> worrerz funny about:
>>
>>>I was intending to weld a patch onto the chassis of my 1997 D90 300tdi
>>>to get it through the MOT.
>>>
>>>Tapping away to find solid steel to weld onto, I demolished a section
>>>about 15 inches by 3 inches down one side. The same thing happened
>>>when I started tapping along the under side of the chassis! I stopped
>>>tapping when it was obvious I was going to end up with a pile of rust!
>>>
>>>Obviously, I either need break this vehicle for spares or fit a new
>>>chassis.
>>>
>>>What are the pro's and con's of doing the latter? For the first time,
>>>I have a nice new barn with a level concrete floor to work on and
>>>plenty of time. Could this be achieved by one man working with pulleys
>>>and levers? And who makes the best chassis for the money?
>>>
>>>(Thank goodness I had the foresight to buy another Landy so I am at
>>>least mobile!).
>>>
>>>Derry
>>
>>
>> Surely this has to be a joke?
>>
>> Has it been used in salt water? I've a 1964 IIa on the drive that is looking
>> like it needs a new chassis, that is acceptable.
>>
>> Anyone know what thickness or not (as the case appears) Landrover used on
>> the more modern 90 such as these?
>>
>> Lee D
>
>
>Welcome back, Derry.
>
>There's some past history on this 90, Lee. Brake callipers so corroded
>that the pads fell out the back come to mind.
>
>It can be a one man job. I re-chassied a IIa single-handed with just a
>cheap engine crane for the heavier lifts. This however was a total
>rebuild from little bits: were you thinking of lifting the whole body
>off in one piece? (Practice for your D3 when it comes along!)
>
>Whether or not it will be worth it is another matter. Only you know
>the state of the rest of it but with the work you've previously put in
>it might make sense.

No joke, I assure you!

BTW, somehow I lost Xnews and can't get it working again. I am now
using Agent so excuse me if I make mistakes as this is only my second
post.

This D90 was an ex-gamekeeper's vehicle. I believe the man got sacked
because of the state it was in! I washed a ton of dirt out of the
chassis which probably included half a ton of road salt!

Actually, most of the vehicle is OK. It is the chassis which is shot.
Yes, you are right, the rear brake calipres were so worn the pads fell
right through!

A very annoying thing hapened when I took this D90 for an MOT. I had
put one front brake pad in back-to-front (late nights, too much work,
etc) so the tester cancelled the test half way through declaring the
disc was "heavily scored" and unsafe. Wot, after only 10 miles? I've
driven several hundred in my youth with brake pads worn down to the
metal backing!!!

Anyway, I took the Land Rover to another tester who agreed with me
that the discs were not "heavily scored". In fact, it is OK and only
very slightly scored. The thing is, if I had gone back to complete the
test at the first garage, they would have insisted on replacing the
disc before even looking at it. But the vehicle still would have
failed. Who needs brakes to test a chassis? I told them they have lost
a good customer as I have been going there for years. Stupid people!

Considering purchasing a chassis from Strathearn Engineering,
Perthshire and doing it myself. After all, I am in no hurry! I hope to
call in on them tomorrow. Maybe there are books, videos, etc. of this
job?

Derry

"Derry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 06 Nov 2006 23:07:09 +0000, Dougal
> <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote:
>
> >Lee_D wrote:
> >> [email protected] <[email protected]> uttered summat
> >> worrerz funny about:
> >>
> >>>I was intending to weld a patch onto the chassis of my 1997 D90 300tdi
> >>>to get it through the MOT.
> >>>
> >>>Tapping away to find solid steel to weld onto, I demolished a section
> >>>about 15 inches by 3 inches down one side. The same thing happened
> >>>when I started tapping along the under side of the chassis! I stopped
> >>>tapping when it was obvious I was going to end up with a pile of rust!
> >>>
> >>>Obviously, I either need break this vehicle for spares or fit a new
> >>>chassis.
> >>>
> >>>What are the pro's and con's of doing the latter? For the first time,
> >>>I have a nice new barn with a level concrete floor to work on and
> >>>plenty of time. Could this be achieved by one man working with pulleys
> >>>and levers? And who makes the best chassis for the money?
> >>>
> >>>(Thank goodness I had the foresight to buy another Landy so I am at
> >>>least mobile!).
> >>>
> >>>Derry
> >>
> >>
> >> Surely this has to be a joke?
> >>
> >> Has it been used in salt water? I've a 1964 IIa on the drive that is
looking
> >> like it needs a new chassis, that is acceptable.
> >>
> >> Anyone know what thickness or not (as the case appears) Landrover used
on
> >> the more modern 90 such as these?
> >>
> >> Lee D
> >
> >
> >Welcome back, Derry.
> >
> >There's some past history on this 90, Lee. Brake callipers so corroded
> >that the pads fell out the back come to mind.
> >
> >It can be a one man job. I re-chassied a IIa single-handed with just a
> >cheap engine crane for the heavier lifts. This however was a total
> >rebuild from little bits: were you thinking of lifting the whole body
> >off in one piece? (Practice for your D3 when it comes along!)
> >
> >Whether or not it will be worth it is another matter. Only you know
> >the state of the rest of it but with the work you've previously put in
> >it might make sense.
>
> No joke, I assure you!
>
> BTW, somehow I lost Xnews and can't get it working again. I am now
> using Agent so excuse me if I make mistakes as this is only my second
> post.
>
> This D90 was an ex-gamekeeper's vehicle. I believe the man got sacked
> because of the state it was in! I washed a ton of dirt out of the
> chassis which probably included half a ton of road salt!
>
> Actually, most of the vehicle is OK. It is the chassis which is shot.
> Yes, you are right, the rear brake calipres were so worn the pads fell
> right through!
>
> A very annoying thing hapened when I took this D90 for an MOT. I had
> put one front brake pad in back-to-front (late nights, too much work,
> etc) so the tester cancelled the test half way through declaring the
> disc was "heavily scored" and unsafe. Wot, after only 10 miles? I've
> driven several hundred in my youth with brake pads worn down to the
> metal backing!!!
>
> Anyway, I took the Land Rover to another tester who agreed with me
> that the discs were not "heavily scored". In fact, it is OK and only
> very slightly scored. The thing is, if I had gone back to complete the
> test at the first garage, they would have insisted on replacing the
> disc before even looking at it. But the vehicle still would have
> failed. Who needs brakes to test a chassis? I told them they have lost
> a good customer as I have been going there for years. Stupid people!
>
> Considering purchasing a chassis from Strathearn Engineering,
> Perthshire and doing it myself. After all, I am in no hurry! I hope to
> call in on them tomorrow. Maybe there are books, videos, etc. of this
> job?
>
> Derry

Strathearn, that's Alan Crow's old place, yes? I've heard good things about
their chassis but never seen one in the flesh myself.
Badger.

Changing the chassis on a 90 is largely a one man job, I've done two
now. I say largely, but you will need two or more people occassionally.
Roof and top sides off together, two people. Body tub off, two people
but easier with more, especially when re-assembling and you dont want
to scratch any new paint. Bonnet, wings, doors etc one person.
Windscreen, one person. Engine and gearbox, engine crane.
get/borrow/hire the right crane and it will also do to lift the
bulkhead off with steering column. Chassis can be lifted off each axle
by one person with a good back. Best thing really is to have a
son/wife/whatever on hand for the odd few minutes when you do need two
people.

Gordon

In message <[email protected]>
"gordon" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Changing the chassis on a 90 is largely a one man job, I've done two
> now. I say largely, but you will need two or more people occassionally.
> Roof and top sides off together, two people. Body tub off, two people
> but easier with more, especially when re-assembling and you dont want
> to scratch any new paint. Bonnet, wings, doors etc one person.
> Windscreen, one person. Engine and gearbox, engine crane.
> get/borrow/hire the right crane and it will also do to lift the
> bulkhead off with steering column. Chassis can be lifted off each axle
> by one person with a good back. Best thing really is to have a
> son/wife/whatever on hand for the odd few minutes when you do need two
> people.
>
> Gordon
>

With his nice new shiney shed, it may be worth considering hiring
a hoist and lifting whole body in one go - I've done this for
Series vehicles, but not a Defender. Lindsay Porters' book "Guide
to Restoration - Series II & III" provides some good general
info on how to go about this - I've not seen his Defender version
of the book, it may be more up-to-date.

Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
www.radioparadise.com - Good Music, No Vine
Lib Dems - Townies keeping comedy alive

On or around Mon, 6 Nov 2006 22:51:01 -0000, "Lee_D"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Anyone know what thickness or not (as the case appears) Landrover used on
>the more modern 90 such as these?

2mm, AFAIK, same as the series, near enough, except that the series was 14
gauge.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"The breezy call of incense-breathing Morn, The swallow twittering
from the strawbuilt shed, The cock's shrill clarion, or the echoing
horn, No more shall rouse them from their lowly bed."
Thomas Gray, Elegy Written in a Country Churchyard.

"beamendsltd" >>
>>
> I'd hazard a guess this vehicle worked through the Foot & Mouth
> episode, in which case it was probably well doused with the
> antisceptic, which is an amazing rust enhancer if not washed off.
> That stuff has finished off a huge number of vehicles of all
> makes.
>

Most did. Mine certainly did although the Isuzu had more dousings than the
LR. Both are still on the road although the Isuzu chassis is more corroded.
Not terminal by a long way.
Maybe if they used phosphoric acid at the wrong dilution then it could have
a very corrosive effect. This same stuff is what Wurth alloy wheel cleaner
is made of.

Huw

In message <[email protected]>
Austin Shackles <[email protected]> wrote:

> On or around Mon, 6 Nov 2006 22:51:01 -0000, "Lee_D"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
> >Anyone know what thickness or not (as the case appears) Landrover used on
> >the more modern 90 such as these?
>
> 2mm, AFAIK, same as the series, near enough, except that the series was 14
> gauge.

It depends on the quality of the steel too. The last Series III's,
from 1980 to 84, used cheap Belgian steel to save money.......

Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
www.radioparadise.com - Good Music, No Vine
Lib Dems - Townies keeping comedy alive

On or around 7 Nov 2006 01:45:23 -0800, "gordon" <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>Chassis can be lifted off each axle
>by one person with a good back

I'd use the crane again, for that
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"Something there is that doesn't love a wall."
Robert Frost (1874-1963)

Thanks! Just the sort of information I need! I hope to be able to call
in on Strathearn Engineering tomorow when I made the dog meat run.

I generally work alone and am well able to make full use of pulleys,
ratchet straps, levers, etc. That, and a knowledge of knots, I'd
suggest ought to be part of compulsory "life science" classes in
school, but probably never will be!<g>

Derry

On 7 Nov 2006 01:45:23 -0800, "gordon" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Changing the chassis on a 90 is largely a one man job, I've done two
>now. I say largely, but you will need two or more people occassionally.
>Roof and top sides off together, two people. Body tub off, two people
>but easier with more, especially when re-assembling and you dont want
>to scratch any new paint. Bonnet, wings, doors etc one person.
>Windscreen, one person. Engine and gearbox, engine crane.
>get/borrow/hire the right crane and it will also do to lift the
>bulkhead off with steering column. Chassis can be lifted off each axle
>by one person with a good back. Best thing really is to have a
>son/wife/whatever on hand for the odd few minutes when you do need two
>people.
>
>Gordon

The thought did cross my mind. Perhaps suspending an "endless chain"
from one of the RSJ supports. They seem pretty tough. I ran the MF135
into one the other day when getting it under cover after several years
under a tree. Started first go but the clutch had stuck to the fly
wheel. Fortunately, I was not going fast and the tractor stalled on
impact. It is an exciting life around here!<g> (Clutch plate now
unstuck. Starter removed, brake fluid squirted onto plate, then
tractor left in gear with a concrete block on the clutch pedal. Three
weeks later, all unstuck<vbg>).

Derry

On Tue, 07 Nov 2006 10:08:25 +0000, beamendsltd
<[email protected]> wrote:

>With his nice new shiney shed, it may be worth considering hiring
>a hoist and lifting whole body in one go - I've done this for
>Series vehicles, but not a Defender. Lindsay Porters' book "Guide
>to Restoration - Series II & III" provides some good general
>info on how to go about this - I've not seen his Defender version
>of the book, it may be more up-to-date.
>
>Richard

"Derry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks! Just the sort of information I need! I hope to be able to call
> in on Strathearn Engineering tomorow when I made the dog meat run.
>
> I generally work alone and am well able to make full use of pulleys,
> ratchet straps, levers, etc. That, and a knowledge of knots, I'd
> suggest ought to be part of compulsory "life science" classes in
> school, but probably never will be!<g>
>
> Derry
>
> On 7 Nov 2006 01:45:23 -0800, "gordon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Changing the chassis on a 90 is largely a one man job, I've done two
> >now. I say largely, but you will need two or more people occassionally.
> >Roof and top sides off together, two people. Body tub off, two people
> >but easier with more, especially when re-assembling and you dont want
> >to scratch any new paint. Bonnet, wings, doors etc one person.
> >Windscreen, one person. Engine and gearbox, engine crane.
> >get/borrow/hire the right crane and it will also do to lift the
> >bulkhead off with steering column. Chassis can be lifted off each axle
> >by one person with a good back. Best thing really is to have a
> >son/wife/whatever on hand for the odd few minutes when you do need two
> >people.
> >
> >Gordon

I did a 110 this summer in my garden. Lifted the body off as one piece,
rolled the chassis out, switched all the gear to new chassis and rolled it
back under. All lifting work done with just a high lift jack though I
wouldnt recomend it if you have an alternative.
I used a galvanised chassis from Richard Chassis and everything fitted just
fine

Gerald

Again, thanks.

I must admit I am beginning to warm to the task! I was wondering how
to lift the body off in one piece. Still, plenty of time to think this
out as I have to sell the hay first to make room in the barn. I welded
a new rear cross member onto my 200Tdi but that was easy enough
because the old tub to be removed was already bent. I did get a lift
from a friend to put the new one on. Not nearly as difficult to do as
I thought it would be. And I have the luxury of the barn with a nice
new level and even concrete floor! (Glad I decided to put that in
instead of the rammed earth my neighbour suggested). My experience
with jacks and levers is to be content with very small movements and
lots of them.

Derry

On Tue, 7 Nov 2006 18:54:53 -0000, "Idris" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I did a 110 this summer in my garden. Lifted the body off as one piece,
>rolled the chassis out, switched all the gear to new chassis and rolled it
>back under. All lifting work done with just a high lift jack though I
>wouldnt recomend it if you have an alternative.
>I used a galvanised chassis from Richard Chassis and everything fitted just
>fine
>
>Gerald
>

"Derry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Again, thanks.
>
> I must admit I am beginning to warm to the task! I was wondering how
> to lift the body off in one piece.

Remove doors and pull seals away from upper edges, pass substantial wooden
baton through with padding for seal channel at top, disconnect *everything!*
and lift body in one go on the baton. Worked on my 110. Might need to rig up
a couple of steady-ropes to get the balance correct though.

> Still, plenty of time to think this
> out as I have to sell the hay first to make room in the barn. I welded
> a new rear cross member onto my 200Tdi but that was easy enough
> because the old tub to be removed was already bent. I did get a lift
> from a friend to put the new one on. Not nearly as difficult to do as
> I thought it would be. And I have the luxury of the barn with a nice
> new level and even concrete floor! (Glad I decided to put that in
> instead of the rammed earth my neighbour suggested). My experience
> with jacks and levers is to be content with very small movements and
> lots of them.

Indeed. Much less chance of damage that way.
Badger.

On or around Tue, 7 Nov 2006 18:54:53 -0000, "Idris"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>
>I did a 110 this summer in my garden. Lifted the body off as one piece,
>rolled the chassis out,

Interesting, I didn't know it was possible with 90/110 type bodies. That's
almost exactly what I want to do here; except that I had in mind selling the
bits of bodywork afterwards; it might be easier to lift the body first
though and dismantle it later. Probably more likely to sell in bits than as
a complete CSW body.


--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"It is a characteristic of the human mind to hate the man one has injured"
Tacitus (c.55 - c.117) Agricola, 45