Need help to start my Disco 3

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W

Wasi

Member
Posts
14
Location
London
Dear Members
Need your kind assistance to start my Discovery 3 Diesel
It was showing following codes
P0405-00 Exhaust gas recirculation sensor A -circuit low
P140A-00 Exhaust gas recirculation sensor C -circuit low
P138E-00 Turbo charger boost control position sensor A- minimum/maximum stop performance
P0087-00 Fuel rail / system pressure- too low
P0118-00 Engine coolant temperature sensor 1 - circuit high
B1B02-28 Low frequency coil
B1C57-14 Unused relay drive

On investigation one of fuel pipe was broken, I fixed it but still its not starting

On further investigation I found these broken bits(see attached pics) which seems to attach to header, I don’t have a clue what these for and what to call them
20190224_153515.jpg
20190224_153502.jpg

Can you tell what are these parts red one label R and there is black on other side labelled L.

Also fuel pressure does not seem enough to me. Where does high fuel injection pump located and how can I diagnose if its working fine.

I am based in southeast London if you know any mobile diesel mechanic who can assist that be great.
A BIG THANKS in advance

PLEASE HELP :(
 
Plastic bits are the bus bar for the glow plugs, ie it just links all three on each bank together, L for left and R for right.
Maybe its my eyesiight but it looks like someone has had a go at removing the glowplugs and its gone wrong?

That large black plastic bit is the intake manifold Y branch which also houses the egr pipes and if them fragments are bits of metal you have trouble on your hands, unless its shards from the attempted glow plug removal?

Is the car new to you or did it stop running as you were driving it?
 
lynall said:
Plastic bits are the bus bar for the glow plugs, ie it just links all three on each bank together, L for left and R for right.
Maybe its my eyesiight but it looks like someone has had a go at removing the glowplugs and its gone wrong?

That large black plastic bit is the intake manifold Y branch which also houses the egr pipes and if them fragments are bits of metal you have trouble on your hands, unless its shards from the attempted glow plug removal?

Is the car new to you or did it stop running as you were driving it?
Click to expand...
Many thanks Lynall
I bought it like this :(
very cheap and was thinking I will fix it and there is a fuel issue needs attention
What do you recommend in this case?
is this something fixable? and this is what causing no starting issue?
 
Hi Lynall intake manifold was full junk oil and dirt and on this pic it seems like metal bits but it was just dirty no metal or anthing :)

I am assuming these broken bus bar for the glow plugs are causing no starting issue?
 
Wasi said:
:(
Seems like if I manage to change these glow plugs it should start
Click to expand...
A lot of times the glow plugs snap on a D3 prior to removal, it then gets costly to have them drilled out. Also one of them needs fuel pump moving to allow access
 
Thanks Johnlad
I am thinking to do it myself - Just ordered glow plug removal kit
waiting for delivery
 
You shouldnt relly need the glow plug unless its below zero.
Im an impatient bar steward and will just unlock the car key in th eignition and crank the engine regardless of the weather, only once in 4 years have I had to actually wait for the light to go out for it to start.

If it really is the glow plugs at fault some easy start sprayed into the manifold will get it to start, if it then dies straight away try it a couple of more times and its still dying you have a genuine fuel issue.
A knackered injetcor will leak to much fuel off and stop the coomon rail reaching starting pressure, easy start will get it to start and if it keeps on running then a check of the injectros with a diag tool may help/

Dont believe all the bollacks people spout about engines getitng addicted to easy start, that an urban myth and only relates ot engines that are so fook/knacked they are only fit for the scrap bin.

I think you need to start from the beginning, ie are all the belts intact, is there really fuel in the tank ignoring the gauge, is fuel reaching the hpfp, is the common rail actually getting up to pressure and so on.
 
Hi Lynall,
Many many thanks for sharing your knowledge
I have already tried easy start spray into intake manifold and could not start it.
Diesel is coming to the injectors but not sure if its the right pressure. But I believe if there was only a fuel issue it should have start with easy start spray?
I have checked Timing Belt is intact and front aux/fan belt is ok too.
I dont know where to look next :(

I have ordered a new fuel filter and going to replace it next it might create more fuel pressure and help to start but again easy start could have start it if its only a fuel issue.
would appreciate if you could assist me with this Puzzle :(
 
Well if it wont fire on easy start you have a problem, as if you didnt know!
I assume you have been spraying the easy start into the plastic Y manifold with the bits of metal in? with easy start you dont need diesel or anything, it should try and run on the starter fluid itself, so as its not you need to dig deeper.

I dont think its going to be a fuel filter issue.

Check the cam belt timing, check the cams in each head are turning, theres two per head, the belt drives one cam and the second cam is driven by a chain from the first cam.

What I getting at is the previous owner could have had a major engine fail, stuck a new cam belt on in the hope that will fix it and sold it as only neeeding minor works.
 
Hi Lynall,
Thanks for all your Help

I was spraying into the throttle body not to Y manifold. Please note there was no metal bits in Y manifold it’s just a reflection of camera light I think.
I have checked the both cams and cambelt is turning over fine
So I think its time to scrap it as it didn’t start after trying all above.
I really don’t want to spend more money as it’s not showing me any hope.
It was a stupid decision to buy it like this but I was thinking it has only 120k on the clock and what possibly can go wrong.
 
Hi @Wasi

@lynall is far more experienced than myself but got me thinking ref ur faults

Have u checked ur ECM module behind the battery as it’s been known for bad pins to cause issues

What standing voltage do u have on ur battery plse

Ref ur sensors , have u removed the engine cover and checked all of them are plugged in properly

Notice ur also in Kent , where abouts are u plse , thks , do u have a code reader urself

So

1) check ECM behind battery
2) check all sensors are plugged in and ensure all ur fuses are ok
3) see what Vdc ur battery standing is plse

Apologises asking so many questions, thks
 
lynall said:
Well if it wont fire on easy start you have a problem, as if you didnt know!
I assume you have been spraying the easy start into the plastic Y manifold with the bits of metal in? with easy start you dont need diesel or anything, it should try and run on the starter fluid itself, so as its not you need to dig deeper.

I dont think its going to be a fuel filter issue.

Check the cam belt timing, check the cams in each head are turning, theres two per head, the belt drives one cam and the second cam is driven by a chain from the first cam.

What I getting at is the previous owner could have had a major engine fail, stuck a new cam belt on in the hope that will fix it and sold it as only neeeding minor works.
Click to expand...

Hi buddy , hope this finds u well

Am also wondering because the glow plugs are disconnected / broken do u think the ECM circuit could therefore locked out to protect itself

Just got me thinking seeing in the pic that glow plug is broke or do u think it should still start

Know with these D3 if something within the circuit isn’t working correctly it won’t allow the rest of the sensors etc further in the sequence to work

Thks as always
 
Hi G Stuart
Many thanks for your time.
I didn’t look at the ECM module behind the battery yet – Will check that now.

Yes removed the main engine cover and all looks fine n connected.

didn’t even check standing voltage on battery – will do this too. I charged the battery fully and jump lead with my petrol Mini started. thinking that would be enough as it was cranking fine – hope this is a right way to do- Please confirm otherwise recommend what new battery I should buy?
I am based in ELTHAM Southeast London

Not sure about ECM circuit yet! I reset all previous codes yesterday and rescan the system now it’s giving me following codes:
ECM Codes
P0405-00- Exhaust gas recirculation sensor A – circuit low
P140A-00- Exhaust gas recirculation sensor C – circuit low
P0118-00- Engine coolant temperature sensor 1 – circuit high
P138E-00- Turbocharger boost control position sensor A- Minimum/Maximum stop performance
P0625-00- Generator Field terminal – circuit low
P120F-00- Fuel pressure regulator excessive variation
P0407-00- Exhaust gas recirculation sensor B – circuit low
P0100-00- Mass or volume air flow circuit
P0107-00- Manifold absolute pressure/Barometric sensor low input
P0113-00- Intake air temperature sensor 1- circuit high input
P0098-00- Intake air temperature sensor 2- circuit high input

Cluster control module codes:
U0102-87- Lost communication with transfer case control module
U0132-87- Lost communication with ride level control module
U0184-87- Lost communication with audio unit
B1A87-68- Battery disconnection/electronic control unit reset
U0416-94- Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module

Body control modules Codes:
B1A99-4C-Power on reset
B1B02-28- Low Frequency coil
B1B70-01- Local interconnection network bus circuit 2
B1C50-24- Crank switch
B1C57-14- Unused relay drive

I am sorry for writing this long list but just wanted to show you if there is something obvious I am missing.
I will really appreciate your kind assistance on this
Big Thanks
 
Wasi said:
Hi G Stuart
Many thanks for your time.
I didn’t look at the ECM module behind the battery yet – Will check that now.

Yes removed the main engine cover and all looks fine n connected.

didn’t even check standing voltage on battery – will do this too. I charged the battery fully and jump lead with my petrol Mini started. thinking that would be enough as it was cranking fine – hope this is a right way to do- Please confirm otherwise recommend what new battery I should buy?
I am based in ELTHAM Southeast London

Not sure about ECM circuit yet! I reset all previous codes yesterday and rescan the system now it’s giving me following codes:
ECM Codes
P0405-00- Exhaust gas recirculation sensor A – circuit low
P140A-00- Exhaust gas recirculation sensor C – circuit low
P0118-00- Engine coolant temperature sensor 1 – circuit high
P138E-00- Turbocharger boost control position sensor A- Minimum/Maximum stop performance
P0625-00- Generator Field terminal – circuit low
P120F-00- Fuel pressure regulator excessive variation
P0407-00- Exhaust gas recirculation sensor B – circuit low
P0100-00- Mass or volume air flow circuit
P0107-00- Manifold absolute pressure/Barometric sensor low input
P0113-00- Intake air temperature sensor 1- circuit high input
P0098-00- Intake air temperature sensor 2- circuit high input

Cluster control module codes:
U0102-87- Lost communication with transfer case control module
U0132-87- Lost communication with ride level control module
U0184-87- Lost communication with audio unit
B1A87-68- Battery disconnection/electronic control unit reset
U0416-94- Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module

Body control modules Codes:
B1A99-4C-Power on reset
B1B02-28- Low Frequency coil
B1B70-01- Local interconnection network bus circuit 2
B1C50-24- Crank switch
B1C57-14- Unused relay drive

I am sorry for writing this long list but just wanted to show you if there is something obvious I am missing.
I will really appreciate your kind assistance on this
Big Thanks
Click to expand...

Thks for the list and don’t ever apologise the more info u can provide the better

What reader are u using plse

Indeed take the battery out, disconnect the connector from the ECM and inspect the pins, make sure there’s no green rubbish or bent pins , that’s a lot of codes to come back after clearing them

The U codes u can normally ignore

I’ll have a proper look through them as I just glanced at them

Battery is extremely important with these vehicles , if the voltage isn’t right can throw all many of errors

Shouldnt have to also jump it, as it’s also when u crank the engine there’s enough power there to spin it fast enough

Decent Battery is a yuasa 019 from Halfords

See how u get on and plse any info u can provide the better

Hope u didn’t mind @lynall me also posting here as I know ur a very experienced and knowledgeable mechanic
 
Last edited:
Before I forget ur see 2 x ecus behind the battery , the other one will be for ur transfer case,

Plse check that one as well to ensure all the pins are clean and not broke

See how U get on , thks
 
Shows u which ecu is which

Also check each fuse with a multimeter to ensure no fuses have blown

A586A4BE-0B60-41AA-A954-B05367135B00.jpeg
AA9D8F1D-C879-4F39-8B21-91AACB831705.png
 
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