Freelander 1 Nearside Front Anti-roll bar linkage fractured (5.3.3 (b) (ii))

I have bought a freelander 2002 , it has failed its mot on just 2 things so I'm hoping it's a real bargain , just to clarify
It's failed on the below

• Nearside Front Anti-roll bar linkage fractured (5.3.3 (b) (ii))

Now I have spanners , I have axle stands , I have a trolly Jack , I have bandages and I have 5 years of working on my series 3 to help me with this . The query I have is this , the drop links are about £35 a pair so ill give it a go , but im assuming fractured doesn't actually mean fractured because the linkage is still in one piece , does it mean the rubber part is broken ?

Also

• Front Exhaust emissions likely to be affected by an exhaust leak (8.2.1.1 (b))

The only leak I can see and hear is the mid box , if I replace mid box is the back of it easy to get over the axle to join back box ?, if these 2 things are as simple as they appear ( as I say I have a series , I know all about seized bolts and the 1/2 hr jobs that take 2 days) i can hopefully save at least half of the £350 that the garage want for work

Drop links shouldn't be a difficult task to do. As you say fractured suggests to me split rubber boot thingy.

Exhaust: you should be able to replace a 'section' without removing the whole lot. I could be easier if you disconnect the rear section and move it backwards a bit though. Seized bolt - yes I know exactly what you mean there! I guess you have some spares / replacements on hand as well as an angle grinder...

No but I'll get some , the section I need bolts onto the cat and fits into back box , they are £45 on ebay , im hoping to do both jobs for under £100 if poss , don't have an angle grinder , might invest

Thanks for reply

Good luck with the Freelander.

I don't know lots, just enough to be dangerous, but a couple of bits that may be useless info...

I know it says ARB linkage, and the drop links break for fun on Freelander, especially cheap aftermarket ones, but the ARB retaining brackets and bushes can cause problems. I say this because maybe there isn't a code for these and the examiner found the best available! The main problems being it allows the bar to move sideways. Worth checking.

When disconnecting and moving the rear section of the exhaust, there is a bracketey thing on the rear section where it joins the mid section. It looks like it should come off once you've separated them and like most bits need a bit of effort/force to get off. It is actually welded/riveted on - so you've be a right numpty to actually break it off. Please don't ask this numpty how I found out. I forget what the bracketey thing is, may have been a hangar and may not be there on all models.

neilc75 said:

No but I'll get some , the section I need bolts onto the cat and fits into back box , they are £45 on ebay , im hoping to do both jobs for under £100 if poss , don't have an angle grinder , might invest

Thanks for reply

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Don't have an angle grinder!?!? There should have been one in the boot with the jack. Get one as you are going to need one with owning a freelander and doing your own work. I find a full size one too big for some jobs and have got a dremel to deal with tight and difficult places to reach

Here is something for the droplink replacement

Drop links are a simple swap job. As GG said, make sure the ARB is central and not striking a strut.

I find it easier to just replace the whole exhaust system. The joint at the rear is a slip joint that rusts solid. Often separating the slip joint results in damage to the rear box too, if it's not already rusted on the top.

The price of the complete exhaust system is small, but the swearing and grief it gives can be big!!
Avoid EBay exhausts too and use a local motor factors as prices are comparable and you have somewhere to return to should it rust out prematurely.

I've seen drop links broken in two so it can happen. In my case it was on a lifted car that was used off road but if one was incorrectly fitted it could happen too so be careful not to copy the original fitment without checking. A few here have made that mistake when working on rear brake shoes too.
Always assume the previous owner was a numpty who did everything wrong. All too often you'll be right.
Good luck with your new purchase.
Edit, I just watched the video above and noticed how easy it was to remove and refit the drop link, this is because both wheels are off the ground. If you have only one wheel jacked up it will be much harder as the ARB will fighting you.

Ok , this is how it stands now ive had a proper look. The anti roll link has snapped as is just hanging there , ill sort that easy

Second thing is exhaust , its not the mid box its the flexi that has totally snapped off at the front , now as this part goes right up into the engine bay im not going to fool around with it so im cutting it out with a grinder and replacing it with a clamp on section , luckily it has broken off flush at the front so clamp will slide over but part still attached to mid section , ive never used a angle grinder before so is it best to take section off to cut flexi pipe off?

If you look at left of image next to flexi this is where it has snapped

Thanks for all replies especially re lifting whole of front for links

neilc75 said:

ive never used a angle grinder before so is it best to take section off to cut flexi pipe off?

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If you've never used an angle grinder before, then you don't want to be under the car with one. They are the most dangerous tool to use, especially in confined spaces. They can cause horrific injuries should it kick and get dropped by an inexperienced user whole isn't prepared for just how savage this tool can be.

Use a hack saw and save any risk of finger or eye loss.

Nodge68 said:

If you've never used an angle grinder before, then you don't want to be under the car with one. They are the most dangerous tool to use, especially in confined spaces. They can cause horrific injuries should it kick and get dropped by an inexperienced user whole isn't prepared for just how savage this tool can be.

Use a hack saw and save any risk of finger or eye loss.

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As Nodge says they are scary things even if you know what you are doing but a hack saw would wear your wrists out, have a look at an electric reciprocating saw instead

Ill see what I can do , thanks for safety advice

Or you could just let the wife do it if you don't fancy it

ill try and get it off and angle grind it , ill wrap myself in bubble wrap , ill be ok. has anyone got any experience re this bolt on flexi pipes , if I try to leave a good bit of overlap on in to slide it on im hoping u clamp either end will get it through its MOT

neilc75 said:

has anyone got any experience re this bolt on flexi pipes , if I try to leave a good bit of overlap on in to slide it on im hoping u clamp either end will get it through its MOT

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Make sure you get the correct internal diameter to suit the outside diameter of the pipe you're cutting out.
Leave enough exhaust pipe so the new flexi has a 50mm overlap at each end. It's also worth cleaning the pipe joints with IP and using exhaust assembly paste on assembly. This paste forms a permanent gas tight joint that'll last as long as the exhaust.

OK , Thanks , ill have a go.

Ok guys , I did this today in 1 hr , ill talk you through my experience , the whole job cost me £23 and that included a sturdy set of 2 ton axle stands that they had at halfords for £10 , yes £10 !! In the sale and Eurocarparts part in one of their any excuse to have a sales sales for £13. (Footy50) I think it was 30% off.

I appreciate Mbrokof sharing the youtube guide but its bollocks.
This is a true version of events

You will jack the wheels up and take the relevant one off , in my case you will then see that the link has totally snapped off at one end leaving you nothing to get a spanner around , you will think about using an angle grinder for the first time to get if off and then realise it is quite close to the brake pipes and bail out .... You will use a junior hacksaw to get it off . You then realise that you can get a spanner around the other end and hit the spanner with as much force as possible whilst wondering if youre going to knock the whole thing off the axle stands ....finally its off.

Even on the stands its not easy , I asked my 16 year old son to help and attached the bottom bolt whilst pulling link down whilst he lined top up for me to release it.

Not as easy at it looks , however took me 1hr and saved me £50 labour