Nanocom transmission reading-diesel

Hi Guys,
Happened to play with Nancom and found this under transmission.


My question is what is the 'engine power' figure?
It changes from 0 to 7 mostly and sometimes touches 52.
But no relevance to engine RPM.

Odd thing, I don't have a Nanocom manual for the gearbox module. Mind you, I don't have an auto box either!

The gearbox ECU monitors engine RPM and throttle position engine power is extrapolated from these. When a gear change is carried out the gearbox ECU sends a signal to the engine ECU which momentarily reduces engine power to smooth out changes.

What range of values should there be, when in neutral & in Drive?
Wonder why it move about 1 to 7 in idle without touching the accelerator.

shold connect Nano and go for a drive to see how it behaves on live data.

kapilamuni said:

What range of values should there be, when in neutral & in Drive?
Wonder why it move about 1 to 7 in idle without touching the accelerator.

shold connect Nano and go for a drive to see how it behaves on live data.

Click to expand...

It's adjusting for engine load. Alternator, steering input Etc

Did you ever sort out the static timing?

I think it's just engine torque expressed in percentage so at idle it will be low.

Wazzajnr said:

I think it's just engine torque expressed in percentage so at idle it will be low.

Click to expand...

Exactly.

Not yet. Lot of electrical gremlins like failed Fuses 10 &13 (I don't have electric seats) and fog lights. associated with sudden engine cutout as
if you switch it off. Also, Nanocom shuts down when go to EAS module.
Redoing the whole timing thing again sure will put me back to bachelor status.
Any short cut method, you know of? May be the inj pump out & realigned?

kapilamuni said:

Not yet. Lot of electrical gremlins like failed Fuses 10 &13 (I don't have electric seats) and fog lights. associated with sudden engine cutout as
if you switch it off. Also, Nanocom shuts down when go to EAS module.
Redoing the whole timing thing again sure will put me back to bachelor status.
Any short cut method, you know of? May be the inj pump out & realigned?

Click to expand...

Unless the woodruff key has fallen out and the pump slipped around or you dropped the spacer from the piston shaft changing the pressure head seal, there can only be one other reason you cannot get .95 mm lift on cam by moving pump towards engine and that is that you have the timing marks in the wrong position relative to the bright links on the chain. Marks one link to far apart would give you what you have.