Nanocom first time

First connection with Nanocom here's what it said



Is the water temp at 151 right???

Ps: cold engine as battery almost flat (on charge now)

Will try again tomorrow once the battery has some juice

This is with engine off and key in position 2

Water temp is most likely a data value from 0-255 and not a true Celsius or Fahrenheit figure.

Saint.V8 said:

Water temp is most likely a data value from 0-255 and not a true Celsius or Fahrenheit figure.

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Yep, probably an 8 bit binary field giving a 255 max.

Normal, happens when battery voltage dips on cranking in my experience. Totally pointless trying to do diagnostics with a less than fully charged battery.

Today with a charged battery I got......

12 volts would suggest your battery is far from charged and if the engine was running the alternator is doing sweet FA.
Timing modulation is way off.

That one must have been taken after the engine stalled

JohnnyCrash said:

That one must have been taken after the engine stalled

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Even so, the voltage is low, but it would account for the modulation perhaps.

Left the battery to charge overnight, started the car and here are the readings








The air temp went up from a minus figure to something about right, but the fuel temp never moved from -11 making me think I should replace the fuel temp sensor

The battery is fooked! And have another on order, but the alternator was only showing at 2k rpm 13.99 or 14.00 volts I thought this was a little low??

What is the glow plug fault?? They are working?

JohnnyCrash said:

Left the battery to charge overnight, started the car and here are the readings








The air temp went up from a minus figure to something about right, but the fuel temp never moved from -11 making me think I should replace the fuel temp sensor

The battery is fooked! And have another on order, but the alternator was only showing at 2k rpm 13.99 or 14.00 volts I thought this was a little low??

What is the glow plug fault?? They are working?

Click to expand...

13. 99 to 14.00 is not shabby when you consider controller max is 14.2. Do you have an hot start fix fitted? If engine is warm idle is too high. Modulation is too high. Throttle pot% too high. May settle if idle is adjusted.

wammers said:

13. 99 to 14.00 is not shabby when you consider controller max is 14.2. Do you have an hot start fix fitted? If engine is warm idle is too high. Modulation is too high. Throttle pot% too high. May settle if idle is adjusted.

Click to expand...

Engine was cold and I have to hold the rpm over 1000 or else it stalls

Thanks, money saved on new alternator

I've never fitted a hot start, it's a 1999 didn't think I needed it? What should I be looking for?

JohnnyCrash said:

Engine was cold and I have to hold the rpm over 1000 or else it stalls

Thanks, money saved on new alternator

I've never fitted a hot start, it's a 1999 didn't think I needed it? What should I be looking for?

Click to expand...

Idle switch should be on at below 9% throttle pot. Idle control is obviously not functioning. Try increasing idle until it stops stalling and see what you get then. Normally a problem with quantity servo position feedback circuit. Get engine warm. Normal idle value should be 128. Up that slowly (1 or 2 digits at a time) to increase idle speed decrease slowly to lower it.

How do I adjust the idle? I thought it was controlled by the FIP?

JohnnyCrash said:

How do I adjust the idle? I thought it was controlled by the FIP?

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It is, you adjust the idle value as Wammers said. Voltage is OK as there is normally a 0.2 volt drop at the OBD connector.

ok, so I took the fuel temp sensor out of the FIP for testing, at room temperature (20 deg C) it reads 2.395k It should be about 1300-1800 ohms at room temperature


Dipped in water from a freshly boiled kettle, we get 0.755 but never drops below 0.700


so although the temp switch knows a change has happened, it's not working fully as the normal operating range is as follows:

0°C - 15200-17300 Ω
10°C - 9250-11500 Ω
20°C - 5500-6500 Ω
30°C - 3790-4270 Ω
40°C - 2650-3100 Ω
50°C - 1800-2200 Ω
60°C - 1200-1600 Ω
70°C - 850-920 Ω
80°C - 600-660 Ω
90°C - 425-480 Ω
100°C - 325-370 Ω

However I’m not convinced this is my issue, but as it’s now out and replacements are cheap, I might as well replace it

So after some searching I found that 2 people have cured this fault...



simply becuase this strip fuse hidden in with the ECU is popped...



so with confindence growing I rush home to check mine, only to find it's fine?!?! :-(

JohnnyCrash said:

So after some searching I found that 2 people have cured this fault...

simply becuase this strip fuse hidden in with the ECU is popped...



so with confindence growing I rush home to check mine, only to find it's fine?!?! :-(

Click to expand...

Told you that fault often comes up with low cranking voltage

Your finger nails johnny..

A blown fuse is hardly going to be intermittent is it?