My TD5 (auto) verrry slow pulling away

Hi all, My 2002 Disco TD5 (auto) has been playing up for a while now. Going up hills, pulling away at roundabouts, etc when it's up in full speed it's fine but it's sooo slow to pull away at slow speeds or up hills. Today, took over 2 seconds for it to start to pull away at a roundabout ( busy one an' all). Took it to my local garage who reckoned it was the "flow...thingy (filter I think he said) and £120 later it was replaced and yes it does pull away faster but not entirely satisfied, he now reckons it's the switch for the gears. Claiming that it might be running in "limp mode" confusing the Disco and making it slow? This is going to cost a further £115 + VAT and labour. Does this sound like it may be the problem and can I find this switch any cheaper elsewhere?

Cheers

Al

Maf sensor or turbo wastegate fault I rekons.

I believe it was the Maf sensor which was changed not the "flow thingy" as I earlier suggested. Is it a tough job sorting out if there's turbo wastegate problem?

Cheers

Just an update...what is now happening is that, yes it is fairly faster since the maf sensor has been replaced but now it judders when I put my foot to the floor. The mechanic still reckons it's the sensor switch to the gearbox making it start in 2nd gear??

Cheers
Al

fella31 said:

Just an update...what is now happening is that, yes it is fairly faster since the maf sensor has been replaced but now it judders when I put my foot to the floor. The mechanic still reckons it's the sensor switch to the gearbox making it start in 2nd gear??

Cheers
Al

Click to expand...

turbo wastegate sticking.

fella31 said:

Just an update...what is now happening is that, yes it is fairly faster since the maf sensor has been replaced but now it judders when I put my foot to the floor. The mechanic still reckons it's the sensor switch to the gearbox making it start in 2nd gear??

Cheers
Al

Click to expand...

Has this mechanic had your car on a diagnostic computer? If he has he should know exactly what is the problem.

thebiglad said:

Has this mechanic had your car on a diagnostic computer? If he has he should know exactly what is the problem.

Click to expand...

While I agree this is often the case it is not always so. I have come across MAF, MAP and temp sensors that have showed as working fine when they were not. My own TD5 has had failed temp sensors that have NOT shown up on my diagnostic.

He tried to use his diagnostics machine to a plug under the drivers side but it just didn't seem to work, just kept showing "trying to connect". He claims that he's seen this problem before and it is definately this switch as it's not giving the correct signal from the gearstick (auto) to the computer therefore it's going into limp mode to save the gearbox. I do find this confusing as it is a lot better with a new maf but why would it start to judder/kangeroo when I've foot to the floor in low speeds? Also seems to work okay in high speeds. How much would it cost to get the turbo wastegate unstuck.

Cheers
Al

fella31 said:

He tried to use his diagnostics machine to a plug under the drivers side but it just didn't seem to work, just kept showing "trying to connect". He claims that he's seen this problem before and it is definately this switch as it's not giving the correct signal from the gearstick (auto) to the computer therefore it's going into limp mode to save the gearbox. I do find this confusing as it is a lot better with a new maf but why would it start to judder/kangeroo when I've foot to the floor in low speeds? Also seems to work okay in high speeds. How much would it cost to get the turbo wastegate unstuck.

Cheers
Al

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Unsticking a turbo wastegate generally doesn't cost anything more than a few mins of your time. Discoverys do have a solenoid that defenders don't have though. These can cost a few pounds. I've never had to replace one so I don't know exactly how much.

A vehicle will go into limp mode if any sensor gives a incorrect signal. Without plugging it into a diagnostic computer you may be shooting in the dark. Get it plugged in and read before you start pouring money into it for no reason.

Bit of an update, due to the footwells being wet from leaking heater/ air con pipes it seems that it's corroded the "XYZ switch" causing the gearbox to get it's knickers in twist when I put my foot down. The Haynes manual says it's a fairly easy job to replace but I'll need a "LRT-44-011" tool...what is this tool and how would I get hold of it? come to think of it any tips of where I could get the XYZ switch as well. Can't seem to find it on e bay or craddocks, maybe it's under a different name?


Cheers
Al

fella31 said:

Bit of an update, due to the footwells being wet from leaking heater/ air con pipes it seems that it's corroded the "XYZ switch" causing the gearbox to get it's knickers in twist when I put my foot down. The Haynes manual says it's a fairly easy job to replace but I'll need a "LRT-44-011" tool...what is this tool and how would I get hold of it? come to think of it any tips of where I could get the XYZ switch as well. Can't seem to find it on e bay or craddocks, maybe it's under a different name?


Cheers
Al

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does the diagnostic say that or is it your mechanic?

Right guys, been to a independant Land Rover garage and had the lot checked out by a proper diagnostics machine and the result given was: nothing wrong with either the gearbox or engine. So that puts the XYZ switch theory to bed, this mechanic reckons that it could possibly be a "loom" which is damaged and I should check the ECU (under the engine cover) for signs of oil. Also to check the turbo pipes for any signs of leaks. I'll start by checking the ECU for traces of oil, is it easy an easy process to get to it?

Cheers
Al

fella31 said:

Right guys, been to a independant Land Rover garage and had the lot checked out by a proper diagnostics machine and the result given was: nothing wrong with either the gearbox or engine. So that puts the XYZ switch theory to bed, this mechanic reckons that it could possibly be a "loom" which is damaged and I should check the ECU (under the engine cover) for signs of oil. Also to check the turbo pipes for any signs of leaks. I'll start by checking the ECU for traces of oil, is it easy an easy process to get to it?

Cheers
Al

Click to expand...

The oil in the loom problem is well known, to check yours follow these simple instructions:

1. Open bonnet
2. Remove the black plastic cover to the left, which covers the battery
3. Just behind the battery you will now be able to see the main ECU in an alloy box, with 2 multi-way plugs attaching
4. take off the plugs and check for oil.

IF there is oil in the plus you need a need injoector harness, purchable from Ebay/Paddock Spares etc for about £25-£40.

Simple job to replace, follow the instructions on this excellent site: www.discovery2.co.uk

Yup, took out the ecu after spotting oil in the plugs. My wife who'd been using the car all day had said it'd been acting up all day, not starting on several occasions until yesterday evening when it wouldn't start at all. I jump started it and it was fine after that, just hope there's not too much wrong with the ecu or it'll be expensive. After letting the oil run out for the next couple of ( and ordering a new loom) is there any way of checking that the ecu is still okay?

Cheers
Al

See pics in next thead...

the amount of oil in you have is quite small and am 99% sure there wont be any in the ecu and the link thebiglad give shows how to take the ecu apart give the plugs a good spray with clutch and brake cleaner to remove the oil and all will be ok but after replacing the injector loom you will still need to clean the ecu plug every week for a month or two untill the oil stops running out of the rest of the loom

http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Injector_harness.html