My RR ran me off the road! Please help!!

My P38 starting getting problems a couple of weeks back and it all seemed to spiral from replacing the key battery. I decided I could ignore these problems but last night it has finally took its toll on me when it ran me off the road.

I am absolutely stuck, I'm sure the problems electrical but I don't have a clue of how to go about finding the fault on these cars what with all the computers.

I'll list all the problems and see if anyone can find anything they may have in common which could be the cause.

Okay so firstly I replaced my key battery, I got EKA lockout and struggled to get in before realising there was a key sequence I had to enter. Did that and got in fine.

Went to start it in the morning and the battery was flat.

Charged battery - unlocked the car and the headlights/brakelights flash instead of the hazards.

3am in the morning the alarm starts blaring. Does this for the next couple of nights.

Bought a new battery and replaced it. I began leaving the car unlocked so the alarm didn't sound, but then 5am in the morning alarm starts sounding even though it should have been in unlocked state.

Disconnected horns, according to the computer the alarm is still being triggered but at least I can't hear it.

Neighbors have reported my sidelights being on in the morning when they get up, even though when I go investigate they are switched off inside.

2 days ago I flashed my lights at someone whilst driving and at that exact moment my screen produced "gearbox fault" yet everything seemed fine.

Yesterday I was driving along when I went to turn a corner, I tapped the brakes - "gearbox fault" but oh no the engine and all power has gone off too! No power steering or assisted brakes left me going straight onto the pavement. Luckily being Christmas day there was no-one about and no one was injured but this has made me VERY worried about driving the car.

Does anyone have any idea what could be producing all these faults?

Might help adding that my car is now overheating too, but the temperature gauge is doing strange things - it manages to rise to the red then bounce to half way

ANY help whatsoever would be MUCH appreciated.

Thank you.

your alttornator would be a good start, gear box fault is common when batt is low..

I would check the fuse box for burned plastic smell. With those problems I would take the fusebox out and open it up to check for dry joints or burning. Just don't wash it in WD40

And as J said, check teh alternator.

sorry abt that mate.
A bouncing temp gauge could b dirty or loose grounds in the engine bay,and/or smtg fishy in the charging system.i would investigate the charging system first as mentioned.when u fix that,check the gauge 4 erratic behaviour.the temp sensor or wiring could be faulty also.does it realy overheat?or the temp gauge acts up and down?when at idle turn on electronics in the car and c if the gauge plays with the elec load.

Thanks for tips so far, I will go out and try them all. How can I tell if it is really overheating or not BTW any tips for that?

These beasts are unbelievably hard to turn without power steering!

i would think it will all be down to the same fault..

I agree with J, alternator and maybe fuse box. If the alternator diode pack has gone and the alternator is generating AC or pulsed DC instead of DC it will produce a lot of voltage ripple which will confuse the electronics.

Right, tested across the battery this morning and it read 10.0v.

Battery is brand new and has only been in about 2 weeks.

Started engine up, tested from alternator positive to battery neg, read 12v.

Held engine at 2k revs, didn't really make a difference.

Switched off car and read battery, it now reads 11v.

Tested pos of battery to pos of alternator on ohms, read 0.01.
Done the same with the neg, read 0.01 again.

Looks like the alternator is dead? Do I need a new one or is there a way to fix it?

Cheers.

Alt should read between 13.5 & 14.6v probably cheaper to get it repaired than it is to replace it.

Is it easy enough to do yourself?

Poppers said:

Is it easy enough to do yourself?

Click to expand...

If ya good with electronics and have the gear top do it / test it yes. If not there are plenty of places that do alternator repairs and reconditioning.

Wonder how much it will cost, was planning on selling it that's all. At least hopefully that's all it should be causing the problems then. :/ Fingers crossed anyway.

A year ago an auto spark place quoted me 45 quid to repair my alternator by adding new bushes. When he took it off it needed a brand new alternator which cost 200 fitted. He couldn't rebuild it cause the bearings had completely self destructed! Hope this helps

Hello,have a look at you tube, there's a video of a guy rebuilding a alternator,and describes the different parts,including the diode pack,....IF you can find one ,i don't think it would be too hard to change,i had to fork out for a new alternator,as finding the pack proved difficult, Plymouth starter motors/alternators are very good and beat everyone on price,if your in the west,(they may post) ......good luck! Piers

I'd guess the root of your problems is interference with the remote locking. Someone may have set up a new wireless internet or some other toy operating on the 433mhz frequency. Do a search on here on remote locking or 'mysterious battery drains' for full background.
In your case you really need to disconnect the aerial (single blue wire going to remote reciever under panel on drivers side behind rear seat) to prevent any further drain.