My lastest thoughts on my ongoing suspension problem....

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James W

Active Member
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245
Right, some of you may recall that I have an ongoing suspension problem where both sides deflate sproadically, when the car is left for several hours.

Without repeating myself, I worked out that it was down to the valves in the compressor not closing properly, as opposed to holes in the air bags. This post explains my reasons why.

Now, here's the new bit. I have subsequently noticed that my battery volage is (what I consider to be) low when the vehicle is 'sitting' (Engine / Ignition off). It's around 10.8v.....!

Coincidentally, (and here's the link).. I have realised that if I pull up, leave the engine running, get out the car, allow the ride height to drop a bit (as it does) and THEN switch the engine off.... The car doesn't drop after a few hours. I started to wonder if the reason that the solenoids in the valve block weren't seating properly was in fact that the supply voltage to them may not be sufficient to correctly operate them? With the engine running, my voltage reads at ~13.8v (although I have seen it rise as much as 14.0v) and my thinking is that there's enough juice to get 'em closed properly. If the car self levels on battery power only (because I pull up, switch off and then get out)... There's not enough juice to opperate the solenoids properly?

My attention was first brought to the 'sitting' voltage of my battery/electrics when I plugged in a 3-in-1 ciggy lighter socket with a built-in battery level light and it went straight to 'red' but goes full green as soon as you start the engine!

What do you guys think of all this? Does 10.8v sound too low for a 'sitting' battery? Do I need a new battery if so? Do you think my theory has any credibility?

Would be interested to hear your views!! It's certainly a new take on a common suspension fault, anyway!

James
 
Right, some of you may recall that I have an ongoing suspension problem where both sides deflate sproadically, when the car is left for several hours.

Without repeating myself, I worked out that it was down to the valves in the compressor not closing properly, as opposed to holes in the air bags. This post explains my reasons why.

Now, here's the new bit. I have subsequently noticed that my battery volage is (what I consider to be) low when the vehicle is 'sitting' (Engine / Ignition off). It's around 10.8v.....!

Coincidentally, (and here's the link).. I have realised that if I pull up, leave the engine running, get out the car, allow the ride height to drop a bit (as it does) and THEN switch the engine off.... The car doesn't drop after a few hours. I started to wonder if the reason that the solenoids in the valve block weren't seating properly was in fact that the supply voltage to them may not be sufficient to correctly operate them? With the engine running, my voltage reads at ~13.8v (although I have seen it rise as much as 14.0v) and my thinking is that there's enough juice to get 'em closed properly. If the car self levels on battery power only (because I pull up, switch off and then get out)... There's not enough juice to opperate the solenoids properly?

My attention was first brought to the 'sitting' voltage of my battery/electrics when I plugged in a 3-in-1 ciggy lighter socket with a built-in battery level light and it went straight to 'red' but goes full green as soon as you start the engine!

What do you guys think of all this? Does 10.8v sound too low for a 'sitting' battery? Do I need a new battery if so? Do you think my theory has any credibility?

Would be interested to hear your views!! It's certainly a new take on a common suspension fault, anyway!

James

If it were 10.8 volts your vehicle wouldn't start. I would re-check this with a calibrated multimeter straight onto the battery terminals.
 
Fair enough - I did wonder! The voltage was from the built in meter on my ameteur radio rig which is connected straight to the battery. I'll stick a digital meter on the terminals later and see what it says! I still reckon it will be low though.....
 
If it were 10.8 volts your vehicle wouldn't start. I would re-check this with a calibrated multimeter straight onto the battery terminals.

12.8 Volts :(

Good... Because I don't need a new battery. Slightly bad because it blows a bit of a hole in my theory. I still think it's the solenoids and I will be looking to test and subsequently replace these. But why does it only happen when the suspension adjusts with the engine off? :confused: Weird.

Happened again tonight... bouncing around in the back (oo-er :eek: ) when packing the vehicle... a while later it's on its arse. So weird. I know that something to consider is that the suspension will also inflate with the engine on (whereas it will only deflate with it off) but when it's just a case of getting it out and allowing it to settle, there should be no inflation involved.

GRRR!! :mad:
 
12.8 Volts :(

Good... Because I don't need a new battery. Slightly bad because it blows a bit of a hole in my theory. I still think it's the solenoids and I will be looking to test and subsequently replace these. But why does it only happen when the suspension adjusts with the engine off? :confused: Weird.
GRRR!! :mad:

Not nessy-celery.It could be dirty or corroded contacts on the solenoids. When the engine is running the extra power from the alternator gives it the required current to get through the crud.
 
I would have thought that the electric opens the valve not keeps it shut...
otherwise your back end would drop straight to the ground when you took off the battery
 
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