my failed valley gasket

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failed front and rear been leaking since i bought it last april thats another thing ticked off the list will finish getting it back together in the morning
 

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If the gasket was buckled, you may want to check the crankcase pipe and fitting on your Divers side Rocker Cover and make sure its flowing freely. I've seen a valley gasket on a 3.5 buckled up due to crankcase pressure probably caused by blocked flame traps.
 
in all fairness to the valley gasket its self it seems to be in reasonable condition the end seals however are shot the rubbers have hardend and split oil was pooling on top of the valley gasket at the rear, at the front leaking out and pooling at the top of the water pump.

the coating has delaminated on top of it there is no coating under the valley gasket. the lower manifold was well and truly sealed to it but im fairly sure leaking a bit on a couple of ports.

time to get me sleeves rolled up and finish the job.

i did notice a slight leak from the rad top hose T piece :mad: poxy plastic crap think the previous owner had this changed and looks like the britpart type with jubile clips. now iv search but cant find it im sure some one makes an ali replacement ?
 
forthbridge said:
If the gasket was buckled, you may want to check the crankcase pipe and fitting on your Divers side Rocker Cover and make sure its flowing freely. I've seen a valley gasket on a 3.5 buckled up due to crankcase pressure probably caused by blocked flame traps.
Click to expand...

+1, got one in years ago that had a new valley gasket fitted days before. However fitted it hadn't cleaned the breather/pipes. It had split the gasket with the pressure:eek:
 
Your mention of a metal joiner for the Top hose got me looking, found this don't know if its the same:
DPHSport
Aluminium Tee Piece - various sizes. (sorry not good with pasting a link).
They do a set for the 300 Disco but they have quite a few measurement combinations available.
 
tomcat59alan said:
Honestly, the gasket was blown up like a balloon and split it. No problem after the breather was cleaned:);)
Click to expand...

The old valley gaskets were ribbed tin. Hylomar needed. I believe the newer ones are composite so i can understand how that could be damaged if there is no metal sustrate. To be honest Alan even if a newer composite gasket gets holed because breathers are blocked shows serious neglect and lack of maintenance.:);)
 
wammers said:
The old valley gaskets were ribbed tin. Hylomar needed. I believe the newer ones are composite so i can understand how that could be damaged if there is no metal sustrate. To be honest Alan even if a newer composite gasket gets holed because breathers are blocked shows serious neglect and lack of maintenance.:);)
Click to expand...

Yup, I was replying to post where the guy said "an old 3.5", think the one I worked was an early 3.9, and yes the owner both neglected it and failed to maintain it. :);)
 
Can I ask what you replaced it with?

I need to do mine when the weather gets a bit warmer, I've read a few things saying the composite ones should be avoided because the rubbery covering flakes off with the heat and enters the engine...?

http://rangeroverworld.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/rover-v8-critical-engine-failure-from.html

Some people say Payern (I think) tin ones are the best but should you also use a layer of Hylomar Blue with these?
 
As far as I know the composite valley gaskets are for the injection engines, the tin gasket was fitted to the 3.5's. Buy a good quality composite as they're some cheap ones out there, don't forget the Hi Temp RTV. I used Hylomar around the water passages on mine - all 4 - this was a composite gasket and I've had no leaks. However, I did re- check the torque on the bolts the next day ( but not the R/Covers ! My mistake). It does help torquing up in smaller increments. On that if the heads have to come off I found the ARP head stud kit a useful addition due to not wanting to muck about with torquing head bolts 90 degrees and so on...
 
forthbridge said:
As far as I know the composite valley gaskets are for the injection engines, the tin gasket was fitted to the 3.5's. Buy a good quality composite as they're some cheap ones out there, don't forget the Hi Temp RTV. I used Hylomar around the water passages on mine - all 4 - this was a composite gasket and I've had no leaks. However, I did re- check the torque on the bolts the next day ( but not the R/Covers ! My mistake). It does help torquing up in smaller increments. On that if the heads have to come off I found the ARP head stud kit a useful addition due to not wanting to muck about with torquing head bolts 90 degrees and so on...
Click to expand...

Hylomar was designed for metal to metal joints with no gasket on Rolls Royce jet engines. Very good stuff indeed if applied correctly. Head studs and nuts in my view are a retrograde step. The alloy expands at a different rate than the studs and causes loosening over time as the washers settle into the alloy as it expands and contracts. Angle tightened stretch bolts were introduced to prevent this. As the bolts stretches as the alloy expands and contract as it cools. Angle tightening is superior to torque tightening in this application because it is more uniform. Anything with a gasket joint and numerous fasteners should be re-torqued two or three times to allow for settlement on the gasket. Very important on torqued cylinder heads.
 
now dont shoot me down here i bought it before i new any better but my new valley gasket is a brit part one from island4x4 i asked the guy there and he said he had no issues with them so britpart valley gasket (x2 end seals made in india) off ebay free postage just to get 1 from island the postage was gonna cost more than the end seal, 1 is mia. :rolleyes:

composite gasket so doesnt need sealant, end seals however do bit of rtv job done, i fitted the new valley and end seals and lower manifold left it over night then rechecked torque settings before putting everything else back. upshot is all seems well i still have my ticking sound the more i listen to it the more it sound like a hydraulic lifter noise so an oil change next week, it ticks from cold and is still there when hot. sounds tappety. cam shaft lobes looked ok when i checked it.

bugger me when i reconnected me battery i now have the little book of death on the hevac wasnt there before :Cry::Cry::Cry: but everything works i did have the a/c pump on its side for 24 hours no idea if its anything todo with it, will investigate another day. maybe something is dissconnected.

maybe a plasebo effect but i think its running a bit better as some others have reported after doing this job due to no leaking oil so increased oil pressure etc. ?????

no bolts left over no over heating but i did need back flush the heater matrix heat was cold on first run up. i orderd this

Aluminium T Piece Tee Piece Alloy Metal Hose Joiner Connector Silicone Rubber | eBay

to replace the plastic T piece in the rad top hose which is a known weakness im sure mine has a pin hole leak. will report back if its a fit but i measured all my hoses before filling up with new coolant.
 
biketeacherdave said:
now dont shoot me down here i bought it before i new any better but my new valley gasket is a brit part one from island4x4 i asked the guy there and he said he had no issues with them so britpart valley gasket (x2 end seals made in india) off ebay free postage just to get 1 from island the postage was gonna cost more than the end seal, 1 is mia. :rolleyes:

composite gasket so doesnt need sealant, end seals however do bit of rtv job done, i fitted the new valley and end seals and lower manifold left it over night then rechecked torque settings before putting everything else back. upshot is all seems well i still have my ticking sound the more i listen to it the more it sound like a hydraulic lifter noise so an oil change next week, it ticks from cold and is still there when hot. sounds tappety. cam shaft lobes looked ok when i checked it.

bugger me when i reconnected me battery i now have the little book of death on the hevac wasnt there before :Cry::Cry::Cry: but everything works i did have the a/c pump on its side for 24 hours no idea if its anything todo with it, will investigate another day. maybe something is dissconnected.

maybe a plasebo effect but i think its running a bit better as some others have reported after doing this job due to no leaking oil so increased oil pressure etc. ?????

no bolts left over no over heating but i did need back flush the heater matrix heat was cold on first run up. i orderd this

Aluminium T Piece Tee Piece Alloy Metal Hose Joiner Connector Silicone Rubber | eBay

to replace the plastic T piece in the rad top hose which is a known weakness im sure mine has a pin hole leak. will report back if its a fit but i measured all my hoses before filling up with new coolant.
Click to expand...

Replacing valley gasket cannot increase oil pressure. For test book symbol try cycling the distribution switches on the Hevac.
 
wammers said:
Replacing valley gasket cannot increase oil pressure. For test book symbol try cycling the distribution switches on the Hevac.
Click to expand...


no didnt think so just plasebo effect but it was a decent leak at the front and rear, iv been cycling the switches on the hevac will keep doing it over the next few days, it did come up every now and again but then clear the next time i started her up.
 
biketeacherdave said:
no didnt think so just plasebo effect but it was a decent leak at the front and rear, iv been cycling the switches on the hevac will keep doing it over the next few days, it did come up every now and again but then clear the next time i started her up.
Click to expand...

Low pressure return oil being blown out by crankcase pressure. There's a lot of it about. Usually under V8 Rover engines. :D:D
 
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