biketeacherdave
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been an interesting day started late didnt finished last few bits to go on tomorrow any ways failed at the end seals front and back
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If the gasket was buckled, you may want to check the crankcase pipe and fitting on your Divers side Rocker Cover and make sure its flowing freely. I've seen a valley gasket on a 3.5 buckled up due to crankcase pressure probably caused by blocked flame traps.
+1, got one in years ago that had a new valley gasket fitted days before. However fitted it hadn't cleaned the breather/pipes. It had split the gasket with the pressure
I doubt if pressure cause a split Alan. Maybe flexion caused a crack.
Honestly, the gasket was blown up like a balloon and split it. No problem after the breather was cleaned
The old valley gaskets were ribbed tin. Hylomar needed. I believe the newer ones are composite so i can understand how that could be damaged if there is no metal sustrate. To be honest Alan even if a newer composite gasket gets holed because breathers are blocked shows serious neglect and lack of maintenance.
As far as I know the composite valley gaskets are for the injection engines, the tin gasket was fitted to the 3.5's. Buy a good quality composite as they're some cheap ones out there, don't forget the Hi Temp RTV. I used Hylomar around the water passages on mine - all 4 - this was a composite gasket and I've had no leaks. However, I did re- check the torque on the bolts the next day ( but not the R/Covers ! My mistake). It does help torquing up in smaller increments. On that if the heads have to come off I found the ARP head stud kit a useful addition due to not wanting to muck about with torquing head bolts 90 degrees and so on...
now dont shoot me down here i bought it before i new any better but my new valley gasket is a brit part one from island4x4 i asked the guy there and he said he had no issues with them so britpart valley gasket (x2 end seals made in india) off ebay free postage just to get 1 from island the postage was gonna cost more than the end seal, 1 is mia.
composite gasket so doesnt need sealant, end seals however do bit of rtv job done, i fitted the new valley and end seals and lower manifold left it over night then rechecked torque settings before putting everything else back. upshot is all seems well i still have my ticking sound the more i listen to it the more it sound like a hydraulic lifter noise so an oil change next week, it ticks from cold and is still there when hot. sounds tappety. cam shaft lobes looked ok when i checked it.
bugger me when i reconnected me battery i now have the little book of death on the hevac wasnt there before :Cry::Cry::Cry: but everything works i did have the a/c pump on its side for 24 hours no idea if its anything todo with it, will investigate another day. maybe something is dissconnected.
maybe a plasebo effect but i think its running a bit better as some others have reported after doing this job due to no leaking oil so increased oil pressure etc. ?????
no bolts left over no over heating but i did need back flush the heater matrix heat was cold on first run up. i orderd this
Aluminium T Piece Tee Piece Alloy Metal Hose Joiner Connector Silicone Rubber | eBay
to replace the plastic T piece in the rad top hose which is a known weakness im sure mine has a pin hole leak. will report back if its a fit but i measured all my hoses before filling up with new coolant.
Replacing valley gasket cannot increase oil pressure. For test book symbol try cycling the distribution switches on the Hevac.
Replacing valley gasket cannot increase oil pressure. For test book symbol try cycling the distribution switches on the Hevac.
no didnt think so just plasebo effect but it was a decent leak at the front and rear, iv been cycling the switches on the hevac will keep doing it over the next few days, it did come up every now and again but then clear the next time i started her up.
I just posted that, must have got lost in the ether.
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