got the block cleaned to this state using gunk and a smokers toothbrush and got the sump off... now its clean enough to bring inside so the plan is to get all the crap out of the garage this week, strip her down clean the insides and parts then ill decide what work needs done... then the long wait while i save up the cash! Haha
my 3.5 rebuild thread
- Thread starter V8-Ninety
- Start date
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got the block cleaned to this state using gunk and a smokers toothbrush and got the sump off... now its clean enough to bring inside so the plan is to get all the crap out of the garage this week, strip her down clean the insides and parts then ill decide what work needs done... then the long wait while i save up the cash! Haha
norseman
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,160
- Location
- Essex - UK
Gunna get pics up this weekend ive got the thing completely stripped apart from the crank and pistons... so far dizzy drive gears are both knackered and the water pump... the oil pump is still on the timing cover so i havent checked it yet but ill assume its knackered and the timing chain is fooked.
bores look excellent though
bores look excellent though
Have been busy lately so havent posted but ive got the crank ready to go in upper bearing shells fitted and lubed... im not sure about the jointing compound im supposed to use on the rear main cap but i believe hylomar will be okay...
Next i have to balance the pistons, a mechanic i know said to build them up, rings shells etc and file until they all weigh the same (sounds tedious)
Next i have to balance the pistons, a mechanic i know said to build them up, rings shells etc and file until they all weigh the same (sounds tedious)
Just fitted the crank but it feels abit tight when i turn it so im going to remove it again and check everything... any siggestions as to what the problem is? Before i removed the crank i could easily turn it with one finger now it takes a bit of force
I have a few still to upload but ive kinda stalled at the minute, got the crank sorted etc. But a mechanic i know who used to work on rv8's has reccomended having crank and pistons properly balanced then getting the flywheel lightened he says it will make a ton of difference so im investigating this... about to ask another thread regarding increasing my cr via skimming the heads
Sorry I haven't written in ages, took the gearbox out and there was a massive hole behind the gearbox crossmember, I have decided a reclassification is in order and sorn the defender however I lost my apprenticeship so the projects on hold.... had surgery the other day on my mouth. When I've heeled I'm gonna clean up the rockers fit those then it's just timing cover dizzy ancillaries and sump 
johndregg
Active Member
- Posts
- 178
- Location
- Belfast Ireland
Any progress on this?
Slight.... pulled the gearbox from the car and found that the chassis was scrap so ive gotten a new chassis and if you look at my thread on poverty iv gotten some shiny bits for yhe engine and a cam.... jim at jrv8 has told me i need an age certificate for the engine and if i bring him the block he can sort that out... gunna swap the 3.9 cam for the hurricane which i got last month then take it up to him... current plan is to assemble it and bolt it to a pallet which can hold the rad and then i can run the cam in and store it while i rebuild the landy.... progress will be slow but i do intend to update this
johndregg
Active Member
- Posts
- 178
- Location
- Belfast Ireland
What's the age certificate for?
I was asking him what way it works with me putting an 80's engine in a 1995 car like do i go by 80's rules and dont fit cats or do i treat it as a 1995 car which most people seem to say needs cats... he said it goes by the engine age but cause i dont know what it came from other than a 90/110 or defender i need an age certificate
cooltide
sheep fancier
- Posts
- 2,570
- Location
- Over the hill
It goes off whichever is the older.
If your engine no. is on this list it should be fine unless your tester is a cock
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/content--name-Rover-V8-Engine-Numbers
cooltide
sheep fancier
- Posts
- 2,570
- Location
- Over the hill
My 10.5:1 cr 3.5 is way quicker than a standard 4.6 though it wouldn't work well in a land rover
Making it burn fuel and air more efficiently is prefferable to just throwing more fuel and air in bet it goes like a stabbed rat
johndregg
Active Member
- Posts
- 178
- Location
- Belfast Ireland
Got it. NI mot centres are government run and not ordinary garages. It can sometimes be a bit of a pain. Much stricter than in GB.
Oh yea i forgot about that... tbf normally they arent quite as strict as they are supposed to be tends to depend on the guy testing it and how hes feeling... always book for late as possible on a friday when he wants to get home asap haha... just doing it to be on the safe side but in all likelyhood i could just put it in and tell the fella its 80's and doesnt need cats and he would just be like oh fair enough
Oh yea i forgot about that... tbf normally they arent quite as strict as they are supposed to be tends to depend on the guy testing it and how hes feeling... always book for late as possible on a friday when he wants to get home asap haha... just doing it to be on the safe side but in all likelyhood i could just put it in and tell the fella its 80's and doesnt need cats and he would just be like oh fair enough
