My 200tdi transplant

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discojamz

Active Member
Posts
833
Location
Bristol
Right then, I changed the big heavy lump in my 90 over the weekend with the help of woods767 (pics to follow) however there are a few issues/questions i need to sort out.

The flywheel housing to block - down the bottom of the join there is a reasonable sized gap, is this normal? I need to take it off again anyway as the good looking crank seal turned out to be not so good!! Should I change the gasket in between the 2?

Would not having a good earth connection from the block to the chassis cause the alternator to not work properly and for the oil pressure sensor thingamajig light not to come on with the charge light before turning the engine on? The engine definitely has oil pressure as it was working ok in the disco.
 
No there should be no gap, and yes it would have charging issues but it would not start (starter needs ever more of an earth) if the earth was that bad.
 
Check the multi pin plug.

There should be no gap, thatll be where the oil is coming from. It MUST be sealed to the block, as i found out the annoying way. Take it out, take it off, grind any un even bits flat, run instant gasket round, stick it on.

Then put a new oil seal in. :)
 
The main face of the joint is tight together, its only down the bottom where it is apart a bit. The existing gaskset is crinked at teh bottom like it shouldnt go together...if you get what ah mean?
 

Bollocks it is.

The flywheel housing must mate to the end of the block or it will leak oil. The oil seal mounts in the flywheel housing, so if this doesn't seal to the block then the oil falls out beind the seal, so no number of new crank oil seals will help.

Unless its leaking outta there as well.

The bottom of the flywheel housing and the sump where it joins the block do look like they are slightly seperate, but the actual mating face of the block and housing needs to be touching and sealed.

Like i said, i used lots of instant gasket, first of course making sure that the surfaces were flat and free of dirt, oil, etc.
 
not between the block and the flywheel housing, does it? I think it does below that, kinda in line with the sump.

IMGP4168-1.jpg


if you look at this, you can actually see where it is machined flat to seal.
 
Ahh i thought that was what you meant-- look back at what i said, i know which bit you mean, where it drops lower then the back of the block, kinda in line with the sump.

I think the 200 may be a bit different, but it aint by much.

Sorry bout the confusion!
 
right. i think i left my camera in the workshop so i will look for it tomorrow and get the pictures of exactly what we're talking about. The actuall mating faces are tight tho
 
right then. the new oil seal arrived today from paddocks(its a sh*tpart one so hopefully will be better than other reports!)
Would it be better to take the engine out again. or to just drop the gearbox and transfer box? Will hopefully pic up my camera aswell so can finally upload some pics
 
right then. the new oil seal arrived today from paddocks(its a sh*tpart one so hopefully will be better than other reports!)

do yourself a favour and get a LR or OEM verson - unless you want to be having the engine out again within 6 months

it's pointless fitting cheap parts in places where if they fail they'll cost you a days work to replace
 
My 3rd party replacement one seemed higher quality than the L'Rover one. Think engine out, exhaust isnt there that will save some time, and can tidy up some other bits at the same time.

My Landrover currently resides at work, it died on the rounderbout, some mayor eletrical failure. Cabin filled up with smoke and i caused a huge traffic problem. oops...
 
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