Moving v8 ignition coil into cab and where to mount

Good afternoon all on this ****ing cold wet day. I have a discovery 1 es v8 and love to go off roading. My main concern as we all know v8's love water as much as my wife's cats do! (Vicious little fcukers)
SO been doing a lot of reading (pictures mainly ) and a guy moved his ignition coil into the cab. So here is where I get stuck. It does not show were in the cab. I've removed the sponge called roof liner so I could place really high. I've had a 5ft king lead made so it will reach, so will it still have powerful spark? Secondly I will have to extend the other wires which connect to the terminals on coil. What amperage wire is more suitable? Does the coil clamp have to be mounted on metal like it is behind headlight?
Just need your advice and knowledge. I'm making a water shield to protect the distributor. Also read about drilling cap and attaching two air lines one connected to vacuum on engine and other end in cab so constant dry arm air circulating.
Is it workable or would I be wastng my time
Wishing you all a merry Christmas

Voltage drop could be a problem, on the HT side if using a carbon cored king lead it will have a fairly high resistance, the longer the lead the more likely when damp to track to earth,
The feed to the coil will need uprating with thicker wire, but in truth your biggest problem will be the distributor cap sealing,
But to answer your question yes you can remotely fit a coil,

Hi buddy thanks for the quick reply, the guy who made my lead assured me that it was low resistance core, he makes up bespoke systems for the custom made car builders .so a 10 or 15 amp wire be suitable?

Why not fit a coil water proofing kit that’s made for the purpose, it worked for my mini many years ago. So your not bothered about any damp reaching the ignition amp then. The same size of wiring that exists will be suitable, it looks as if it’s 7amp it won’t draw any more current because it’s moved and the coil clamp doesn’t have to be bolted to metal.





Sent from my iPad on a train

Ignition amp? Please enlighten me.

Got it, I was having a brain fart. So am I able to move this too? The last thing I want to do is fcuk up my engine. I tried the distributor waterproofing cover and boy was it impossible to put on so bloody tight but will have another go. Thanks for the heads up. Really appreciate it
Have a enjoyable Christmas

Why move the coil? It's probably the easiest part to fully waterproof. It's what's at the other end that's the problem, ya dizzy!
Back in my Mini days we'd use silicon sealant to seal the plug lead and grease on the LT connections and a marigold rubber glove on the dizzy.
You put the hand part of the glove over the dizzy body and poke the HT lead through the middle finger and the other leads through the other fingers and then a cable tie pulled tight over the rubber keeps the spark inside.
I have read about special 'nine fingered' gloves for V8s being sold on eBat but are none for sale at the moment.

Here's some advice from down under

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/165904-waterproof-your-v8s-ignition.html

If you just seal your cap they get prone to the centre pick up failing due to
But Yes you can drill then seal the cap.
We used to pressurise the cap when going near water. Only had 1 pipe.

Your method of connecting to a engine vacuum would be inviting the water in if there was a problem with the 2nd pipe

An expensive way to seal dizzy and coil. http://www.mill-services-uk.co.uk/waterproof_kit.html eBay did few at around £39 Rimmer bros have them listed.