Moves cold, struggles warm

IMO much better to get a recon box with the Sonnax valve block (and other upgrades) than throw a box in with unknown history.
Better still if it's low'ish mileage get your own recon'd then you know you're not getting a box with 250k miles on it.
Also no point doing GB and leaving original TC to contaminate the new GB if it lets go.

And replace the gearbox oil cooler as well or at least flush it out. if getting a recon box.

backinblack said:

IMO much better to get a recon box with the Sonnax valve block (and other upgrades) than throw a box in with unknown history.
Better still if it's low'ish mileage get your own recon'd then you know you're not getting a box with 250k miles on it.
Also no point doing GB and leaving original TC to contaminate the new GB if it lets go.

Click to expand...

brianp38dse said:

And replace the gearbox oil cooler as well or at least flush it out. if getting a recon box.

Click to expand...

But I'm dropping/changing the gearbox oil first and checking the oil for bits in it before going down the recon gearbox route, right?
I don't know it's history

GallyeL said:

But I'm dropping/changing the gearbox oil first and checking the oil for bits in it before going down the recon gearbox route, right?
I don't know it's history

Click to expand...

If it we're me I'd drop the oil first, no point putting fresh in if it's full of bits.

Have you had it on dignostics to look for fault codes?

backinblack said:

Have you had it on dignostics to look for fault codes?

Click to expand...

No not yet, but it has a fault on the dash to do with the air suspension, but I wanted to get it moving first.
Just changed the square fuse in the boot area but was more distracted with the gearbox.

Worth getting codes read before you start throwing things on for the sake of it.

brianp38dse said:

And replace the gearbox oil cooler as well or at least flush it out. if getting a recon box.

Click to expand...

And the pipes.

backinblack said:

Worth getting codes read before you start throwing things on for the sake of it.

Click to expand...

Oops. I didn't clear in case I needed to do something else guy I borrowed it off said I should have cleared it. Could try that tomorrow.

Engine
P1260 Delivery Fuel Pressure Monitoring
P09F6 Rail Pressure Control During Cranking
P1E00 CAN Bus
P1250 Delivery Control Relay
P1E05 Cruise Control Switch

Auto Trans
50 Battery Feed K167 Fault

Transfer Gearbox
0x5212 Battery Under Voltage
0x52ED INSTR 2 Lost from CAN
0x62E7 ASC 1 Lost From CAN
0x52E8 EGS Lost From CAN
0x52E9 DME 2 Lost from CAN
0x52EB DME 1 Lost From CAN
0x52EC ASC 2 Lost From CAN
0x52F3 EGS 2 lost from CAN
52F0H/21232 Refer to OEM repair information for code description
0x52F2 INSTR 3 Lost from CAN

Airbag
50? Supply voltage less than 9.6v

Air Suspension
105 Too much energy for regulation needed rear right
50 CAN bus Fault
31 Front right height sensor Fault

I would suggest alot of "battery shagged" faults showing there possibly along with dampness maybe.

Good luck.

J

marjon said:

I would suggest alot of "battery shagged" faults showing there possibly along with dampness maybe.

Good luck.

J

Click to expand...

Yeah the battery was rubbish, replaced it. I will clear all codes and see how I get on.

GallyeL said:

Yeah the battery was rubbish, replaced it. I will clear all codes and see how I get on.

Click to expand...

Check for dampness in connectors too.

Would be good to see new list of codes with a good battery.

J

^^^^what he said

What battery did you get? hope it was the biggest that will fit in the tray MF31-1000

backinblack said:

What battery did you get? hope it was the biggest that will fit in the tray MF31-1000

Click to expand...

It was a proper landrover battery and was fully charged. I googled the error codes and found something that its the battery, I've since changed it but not cleared codes. I will update tomorrow! Thanks chaps.

GallyeL said:

It was a proper landrover battery and was fully charged. I googled the error codes and found something that its the battery, I've since changed it but not cleared codes. I will update tomorrow! Thanks chaps.

Click to expand...

What is a "Proper Land Rover battery"? Does that mean it's as unreliable as the rest of Land Rover's products??
Sadly, garages have a tendency to fit the smallest battery they can get away with.

Garages and motor factors often get the battery spec wrong especially if you have the Vogue trim level they need the biggest that will fit as these motors are very power hungry, even having the doors open whilst you give the motor a good clean inside can drop the battery dangerously low.

So, got the bolts off (filler bolt was a nightmare, need to replace as had to drill but unable to find one, can only find the sump plugs, I think it might be this though?) and dropped the oil, cleaned and replaced (it was manky and black and definitely not changed like the guy I got it off said) also filled up with brake fluid like it asked on the dash and voilla!

'Gearbox' issue is no more, no air susp. inactive error and can stop start reverse etc - no faults on dash.

The suspension is moving too, just the front left that isn't moving but I was told off the guy I got it he jet washed it and disconnected a connector...

I found a suspect but unsure where it goes or what it's called to find in a manual... any ideas?


definitely getting there, just fighting with getting the caliper holder/carrier and the track rod end and I will look at getting MOT - exciting!

The one hanging down looks like the oiginal, the one connected looks like a replacement. I suspect they ran in a new one and couldn't be bothered taking the old one out.
I cut the old one off and connected my new one to the ends.

Old


New

This in the old cable that's a PITA to get out.