Mountney Steering wheel problems.
- Thread starter meego
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Freddy 007
Gone but not forgotten
- Posts
- 845
- Location
- Somerset, UK
It seems the Mountney steering boss's vary quite a lot in how they fit.
When you put the nut on to tighten the boss down they often push onto the plastic steering housing.
So depending on how much it's rubbing you could sand off a bit from the bottom of the boss.
Or if it rubbing loads you might need to cut out the plastic steering housing for the boss to fit.
I can't see why it should feel stiff to turn, unless it's rubbing more than you think. Also going from a standard 16" to a 15" will had reduced the amount of leverage you have to turn the wheel, but I just can't see that being enough to even notice.
When you put the nut on to tighten the boss down they often push onto the plastic steering housing.
So depending on how much it's rubbing you could sand off a bit from the bottom of the boss.
Or if it rubbing loads you might need to cut out the plastic steering housing for the boss to fit.
I can't see why it should feel stiff to turn, unless it's rubbing more than you think. Also going from a standard 16" to a 15" will had reduced the amount of leverage you have to turn the wheel, but I just can't see that being enough to even notice.
Litch
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,235
- Location
- Oxfordshire
My old Mountney boss fitted perfectly but the column shroud can be adjusted slightly so try loosening the screws and moving it before attacking the boss. Even if it is touching the shroud it shouldn't make any difference to the feeling of the steering (if it was that tight I would expect the shroud to break), that can only be down to the steering itself. Do you have PAS?
I ran a 14-inch Mountney on my 90 for about 5-years and the steering was as light as anything, about 8-years ago I fitted a 12-inch Raid wheel and I can still turn it with one finger.
Last week I ran with the original 4-spoke wheel while I was having the boss modified to bring the wheel as close to the controls as a standard set up and it was really weird, it was like driving a bus! Fitted the boss & wheel yesterday and the controls are in fingertip reach again, wish I had done it years ago.
I ran a 14-inch Mountney on my 90 for about 5-years and the steering was as light as anything, about 8-years ago I fitted a 12-inch Raid wheel and I can still turn it with one finger.
Last week I ran with the original 4-spoke wheel while I was having the boss modified to bring the wheel as close to the controls as a standard set up and it was really weird, it was like driving a bus! Fitted the boss & wheel yesterday and the controls are in fingertip reach again, wish I had done it years ago.
Freddy 007
Gone but not forgotten
- Posts
- 845
- Location
- Somerset, UK
I'm very interested in who did the mod and how they did it? What boss is it?
It's not a major problem but it would be nicer to have the control in fingertip reach.
- Posts
- 4,008
I had the same issue too - here's my twopenneth worth ... http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/fitting-new-steering-wheel-185904.html
Cheers
Freddy 007
Gone but not forgotten
- Posts
- 845
- Location
- Somerset, UK
Hummm...
I like it.
It wouldn't work with the one I have now as it's one solid piece on ally.
Litch
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,235
- Location
- Oxfordshire
If your Mountney boss is the same design as my old one then it can't be done because as you say, it is a lump of alloy.
The "6-hole pattern" boss which I replaced it with is also made by Mountney but is a different design altogether and made the modification much easier.
As in the link posted above the boss is made up of two parts, the alloy boss which fits the column and then a steel adaptor (exactly as in the photo) which bolts between the boss and the wheel. In my case it is the adaptor which has been cut down which means the rear of the wheel is just above the top of the column. Don't entrust this to some "mate" with a stick welder, I used a local specialist welder who has done other precise work for me and he has made a first class job. I cut down the rubber boot to fit and it is a nice & tidy installation.
landy90will
Member
- Posts
- 83
why not just trim the plastic back that what i did
Freddy 007
Gone but not forgotten
- Posts
- 845
- Location
- Somerset, UK
Is that in response to the OP?
Or is that how you managed to reduce the length of your boss by 30+mm?
Update,
The boss was rubbing quite hard against the raised collar of the steering column housing. So I ground that down (the housing, not the boss). The boss is now rubbing on the face of the housing slightly, and making a bloody annoying creaking sound when I turn the wheel. So going to go ahead and take a bit off the boss with the belt sander.
Also the two pins on the bottom of the boss that are supposed to cancel the indicator are set too wide apart. They are set at 33mm between them, and the blue plastic part with the slots cut in it that they are supposed to locate into, is only 30mm outside diameter. Solution for me was to bend the pins inward. Works perfect, but why are they made like this in the first place?
The boss was rubbing quite hard against the raised collar of the steering column housing. So I ground that down (the housing, not the boss). The boss is now rubbing on the face of the housing slightly, and making a bloody annoying creaking sound when I turn the wheel. So going to go ahead and take a bit off the boss with the belt sander.
Also the two pins on the bottom of the boss that are supposed to cancel the indicator are set too wide apart. They are set at 33mm between them, and the blue plastic part with the slots cut in it that they are supposed to locate into, is only 30mm outside diameter. Solution for me was to bend the pins inward. Works perfect, but why are they made like this in the first place?
sible88
New Member
- Posts
- 3,492
- Location
- Hertfordshire
Second that.
- Posts
- 4,008
I'm not a big fan of that solid boss, the collapsible type makes much more sense to me given that these aftermarket steering wheels have little to no padding whatsoever.
I think that there are some differences between earlier and later steering columns and the designs are based on fitting the series rather than the Defender (i'm guessing here as I haven't seen/measured a series column).
The one I bought also didn't fit and I too needed to alter it so that the pins hit the indicator canceller and to stop it rubbing the steering column.
When I spoke to the supplier he was unaware of any issues, "no one has said this before" he said... He did work with me however the manufacturer also deployed the "no one has said this before" attitude so the ones they make still don't fit.
They are not cheap either ...
These are the two types I am talking about...
Attachments
landy90will
Member
- Posts
- 83
OP. what is the boss you're using? i had a boss off ebay couple of months back that i was able to cut about 30mm+ off and tap and die. look around a bit more I'm sure you can even buy a slim-line boss, recently I'm using seat rails so have bought a longer boss to make up the distance from the wheel.
Its the solid aluminium one with two grub screws. Its fine now, as I have ground a fair bit off the bottom of it.
landy90will
Member
- Posts
- 83
it was this one LAND ROVER DEFENDER STEERING WHEEL BOSS KIT 48 Spline 19mm | eBay i managed to chop the top off to get down to bare ally and tap it. i had another slim boss that then fit on to that i use a momo with a snap off system. picture of the boss to follow.
landy90will
Member
- Posts
- 83
Last edited:
