More Disco.. what's going on?

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Cheers Dave

I'll get the belt off and the belt cog off and check keyway.

The cover is still on as I'll take the rad off etc to do a proper job. It'll be after this weekend now. I can see the black seal inside the cover.

Maybe the cover is ok ... just battle scarred?

I'm going to have to take a gamble here somewhere. The MOT is due 2nd Jan. Ideally I can get a cheapo pulley on and get it running so I can get it MOT'd to see if it's worth doing timing. Don't want to spend and go to trouble of doing belt and MOT shows it's a scrap job. I know sills need doing.

Col
 
I've spoke to a couple of local Land Ranger places and one guy thinks that this hasn't been 'machined' but it will have worn like that where the original key has kept vibrating.

It just looks so square.

Boz
 
Just get a new pulley, file a bit of steel to be a good fit all round then loctite the threads and get the correct tightness on the bolt, I would not weld as you may regret it later.

The oil seal only stops muck going in not oil coming out so it's not hyper critical if you don't wade.
 
Cheers guys ...

Just an option like ...

What if I grind a second key to fill the hole next to the original keyway. Loctite in new proper key and loctite/metal liquid the second ground key and make good.

Then put on new pulley and tighten up bolt. Then tack weld the new pulley to the bolt like Steve says.

If I do the timing belt now then that shouldn't need doing for ages. If the spot weld is just on the end where the bolt joins the end of the pulley ( weld bolt/spacer/pulley ) and the bolt is loctited in ... then if I need to get pulley off in the future ( hopefully years ) to get to timing belt, then I can just grind off the weld as it will be easy to access? Then fit a new bolt/spacer/pulley.

What do you think? Or will the pulley 'connected' to bolt like that cause bolt to vibrate loose as the whole idea of the rubber in the pulley is to take out vibrations from engine?

Col
 
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I would not weld it myself, you won't be able to check if it's still tight. Just go for a good repair, make sure the key is a good fit whatever you do or it'll only last days. Get the full correct torque on that bolt and bobs yer aunty.
 
The timing cover is off.

The timing pulley is ok and still solid and the timing pulley keyway looks fine and undamaged.

So it's just the keyway in the crankshaft where the damper pulley sits.

The timing belt that is on is all worn away for the 1st 10mm at the front. I believe this is a common problem as the original pulley and tensioner etc didn't line up properly.

This is the original pulley and tensioner as the pulley has no lips but the tensioner does.

When I took the pulley off the front cover ( the one that the fan fits to ) one of the flanges is broken off so there were only 3 pins actually holding it on. This takes little load so I think 3 pins will suffice.

Col
 
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My one just slid off with my hands, get the front of the shaft good and clean and give a spray of wd or similar to ease it.

If not, there are some M5 holes threaded in it for a puller.

There is an o-ring behind it that must be renewed and is not in the kits, get one of those too.
 
Ok Dave thanks for staying with me on this fella.

Steve popped around again yesterday.

Despite the wear on the front of the belt we discussed the fact that this car had done 180,000 miles with the original set up ( toothed pulley with no lipped edges ) so why not leave well alone and just put a new quality belt on?

Ideally I'd like to put the new mod kit on ...

... but if this toothed pulley is stubborn to come off then the cost starts to go up and up.

A new belt will be about 15 quid.

A kit is about 60. I'll need a puller to get the old toothed pulley off ... how much are they?

I was reading last night that a 1/2 drive will not get the tension on the damper pulley ( 80Nm + 90 degrees = 300 ish Nm ). A 3/4 drive is required ... so another purchase.

To do it properly I'd need the holding tool ( about 100 quid ). The biggest thing here is to get that bolt up tight after the repair.

So do I get a tool or just do it up as tight as I can with the car in gear etc and a piece of pipe over a breaker bar.

The argument will be that if the mod kit isn't fitted and the belt goes then what cost to repair the engine damage ... but 180,000 miles as is ?

Col
 
Tensioner and idler pulleys off and belt off.

The belt pulley is solid. I've given it a few taps and tried levering off but it's solid. So it does look like I now need a puller kit. Those holes in the pulley to take the pins look very small? Will those size pins snap?

Another question...

Re the timing ...

The teeth on the belt lined up perfectly with the cogs on the pulleys on the fuel pump and then moving clockwise, the cam and the crank pulleys. Belt nice and tightish in those areas.

However, as the crank was turned to exactly 12 pm and the keyway of the timing pulley lining up with the little arrow at the back of the casing ( above crank pulley ) then the hole didn't line up on the fuel pump. Also the marks didn't line up on the cam and case. If the crank pulley was turned half a tooth anti clockwise then the hole lined up on the fuel pump but the marks on the cam are still just out of line ( about half a tooth ). Is this small mis alignment normal? and acceptable? If all the marks were lined up then the belt teeth wouldn't have lined up?

Col
 
skires said:
Tensioner and idler pulleys off and belt off.

The belt pulley is solid. I've given it a few taps and tried levering off but it's solid. So it does look like I now need a puller kit. Those holes in the pulley to take the pins look very small? Will those size pins snap?

Another question...

Re the timing ...

The teeth on the belt lined up perfectly with the cogs on the pulleys on the fuel pump and then moving clockwise, the cam and the crank pulleys. Belt nice and tightish in those areas.

However, as the crank was turned to exactly 12 pm and the keyway of the timing pulley lining up with the little arrow at the back of the casing ( above crank pulley ) then the hole didn't line up on the fuel pump. Also the marks didn't line up on the cam and case. If the crank pulley was turned half a tooth anti clockwise then the hole lined up on the fuel pump but the marks on the cam are still just out of line ( about half a tooth ). Is this small mis alignment normal? and acceptable? If all the marks were lined up then the belt teeth wouldn't have lined up?

Col
Click to expand...


Hi Col, the only way I know of to ensure the timing is perfect is by using timing pins in the pump pulley and the flywheel. Using the keyway on the crankshaft and lining it up by eye is not accurate enough imo.

Incidently, if you were to buy the timing kit from Paddocks I'm pretty sure it comes with a puller to remove both the crankshaft damper pulley and the crankshaft timing belt sprocket.

The first one of these I did I skimped on not getting the 3 sprocket screws on the pump undone - this I now find is vital !!! It allows the pulley/sprocket to settle into a correct position, once the new belt is on.

Do bear in mind that you need a deflecting-bar torque wrench for setting the belt tension, which is not high - 15n/m from memory.

I bought this torque wrench for about £12 from memory.
 
Yes, you will need the old style bar torque wrench, it sort of needs three hands to set the tension.

Yes the timing kit has a puller, I was lucky and it slid off, the threads are m5 I believe.

While it's all down it would be foolish to not do the conversion, could cost pushrods, rockers etc when it goes.

Yes, that timing is not normal and will affect performance, don't worry about the crank arrow as its only for guidance, get the flywheel pin in for accuracy, align the cam pulley spot on, get the pump pin in to set that. LOOSEN THE PUMP BOLTS FIRST don't use the timing pin to lock the pump while loosening those bolts and don't undo the centre bolt.

When refitting, start at the crank and keeping the tension on, go to the cam pulley then round the pump, the only slack must be between the pum and crank on the left stretch of the belt, it's a fiddly bugger to get on so persevere with it. ALWAYS turn the crank two revolutions and reinsert the pins, flywheel first, to check the settings. I did this three times over to get the pump pulley set just right, the pump pin must slide nicely in when done or it's not right. Never turn the crank backwards, if you overshoot then go round again.
 
BTW a half inch breaker will do the job but it will need to be a good one, I used a 24" snap-on one with a tube on the end, the crank was locked with a home made locking tool which bolted onto the front crank damper/pulley.
 
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