my 98 4.6 gems is driving me nuts with its intermittent fault of alarm fault ,engine disabled and jumping locks ,not locking or un locking on key fob some times it will except the eka after several attempts .I was wondering is it time to replace the drivers door lock/ micro switches ? its had new batteries in key fob and new one under the bonnet up graded the rf receiver and replaced passenger door look as it supper locked its self resoldered corroded wires on big white plug in passenger foot well. Any advice would be welcome.
more advice needed !!
- Thread starter rjc v8
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
- Posts
- 16,480
- Location
- Benfleet, Essex
New drivers door latch/switches probably required, as you say.
- Posts
- 2,101
- Location
- Mull of Kintyre
Martyuk is the man for door locks. Highly recommended.
- Posts
- 16,480
- Location
- Benfleet, Essex
^^^^^^^^^^^
+1 BUT! Be sure to send in your old failed one for refurbishment for someone else to get their bus fixed too!
Personally, although I had bought a brand-new one (Mucho-Expensivo) I still gave @martyuk my failed unit because paying things forward is a good thing.
- Posts
- 2,101
- Location
- Mull of Kintyre
Me too
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,410
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
- Posts
- 19,307
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Marty did a lock test sheet on here somewhere. Brianp38dse often posts the link up.
thanks guys ordered one so will let you know if it fixes my faults
- Posts
- 19,307
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Might be worth checking the boot button too while you're waiting. Doesn't take long and is prone to corrosion, apparently. It is linked to centre microswitch so potentially could cause issues, I guess.
finally got round to changing drivers door lock ,stopped the jumping locks but still got the alarm fault ,engine disabled, sometimes if I press the remote when turning the key it fires up ok,other times it won't even. except eka code,also sometimes cental locking works on fob. have been told to swop the becm but not sure, any advice please
- Posts
- 19,307
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Someone with a Nanocom could disable the alarm and passive immobilisaton, that might cure it.
Engine immobilised press remote might be the coil around the ignition. Similar thread recently.
Engine immobilised press remote might be the coil around the ignition. Similar thread recently.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 20,093
- Location
- heathrow
Sorry missed the tag about the lock test 
Swapping the becm is not really the answer can throw up more trouble than its worth.
Swapping the becm is not really the answer can throw up more trouble than its worth.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 45,017
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Swapping the BECM may just leave you deeper in the shyte. Is the carpet wet in the drivers footwell by any chance? Particularly the underside.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Swapping the BECM with your problems is like being told to swap the car if you get a flat tyre.
yes the carpet is wet on the underside, another problem to solve !!
stemac33
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 550
- Location
- Accrington, Lancs
Bingo.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 45,017
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
So there you have the answer to your problems. Most likely the heater O rings have failed but it could be rain water. Either way it's not going to work with damp electronics.
it will be rain water as I have replaced O rings and matrix .stopped the rain getting in on passenger side when I soldered the wires that were corroded in the white plug never thought to check drivers side doh!! thank you all for the great advice .that's my weekend sorted.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 45,017
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
If you have a warm airing cupboard, take the BECM out, remove the lid and leave it in the airing cupboard for a few days. It can also be done carefully with a hairdryer on the low heat setting keeping the dryer at least 30cm away and moving constantly so as not to overheat any one spot.
You will also need to check all the connections for corrosion, in particular green verdigris on the plastic between the pins.
Similar threads
