Freelander 1 Modified Oil Rail - 1.8 K series 2005

AFS1 · Apr 7, 2016

Thanks for the comprehensive response and pictures. I'm assuming that the liners themselves are fixed (as long as one doesn't turn the crank) and won't move etc, when cleaning up around the block and the top off the liners, so the solution you provide is only required, if one were to turn the crank - is there any real reason to turn the crank, other than to check the bores for scoring?
And finally, your last picture of the two bolts set diagonally, wouldn't 4 or 6 bolts be the safest bet for not allowing the liners to move (again I'm assuming, if the liners are not held by the bolts/washers, that they will lift if the crank is turned, requiring resetting of the liners at the sump end?).

Nodge68 · Apr 7, 2016

I always clamp the liners diagonally (bottom pic) as a precaution. It doesn't take much to disturb the liner, breaking it's seal in the block. The 5 minutes it takes to clamp is miniscule compared to the time taken to reseal a lifted liner.
You can use as many clamps as you like. I use 2 for general head gasket changes. The liners can't actually lift with just 2 clamps fitted.

Alibro · Apr 7, 2016

It would only be an issue if someone were silly enough to leave a socket on the crank bolt and accidentally knock against it, or leave the car in gear and turn a wheel or..... You get the idea.
I never bother with bolting down the liners but spend the entire time the head is off being paranoid about it, and refit the head as quickly as I can.
Like I said before I had to replace the oil rail last time I did it and the liners cannot be clamped while that is happening.

AFS1 · Apr 7, 2016

Nodge68 said:
I always clamp the liners diagonally (bottom pic) as a precaution. It doesn't take much to disturb the liner, breaking it's seal in the block. The 5 minutes it takes to clamp is miniscule compared to the time taken to reseal a lifted liner.
You can use as many clamps as you like. I use 2 for general head gasket changes. The liners can't actually lift with just 2 clamps fitted.

Thanks again for this very useful information, it helps put my mind at rest lifting off the head. Can you give an approx length of the copper tube you cut to sleeve the head bolts? Also, any suggestions for 'breaking' the head from the block?

htr · Apr 7, 2016

I cut my tube spacers to 90mm, you don't need to tension them up very tightly. The head should lift off fairly easily. There are surprisingly heavy too.

Alibro · Apr 7, 2016

htr said:
I cut my tube spacers to 90mm, you don't need to tension them up very tightly. The head should lift off fairly easily. There are surprisingly heavy too.

Heavy enough that you're best getting help to lift it off, and especially for refitting but they are usually easy to break the seal. I had a problem getting a couple of the head bolts out as the oil channels they run through were so gunged up with crystallised oil. I ended up pulling the oil rail off so I could unscrew them up as far as possible, tap them back down and clean the stuff off the threads of the bolts and try again. It took around twenty goes to get them out.

htr · Apr 10, 2016

htr said:
"With the head off, is it sensible or advisable to have the coolant/waterway modifications undertaken, which I assume means the waterways are enlarged or resurfaced, irrespective of whether I have the actual head skimmed or not?"

Re head water ways. I've found these to be partially obstructed and not cleaned up properly from manufacture. I use a Dremel and a 6mm TC bit to clear these out - I don't actually enlarge them beyond what the casting shows me - if you know what I mean.

I took some pix today to illustrate what I have done to heads,
as it left the factory:

you can see the chisel mark on the lip of the coolant aperture in this pic, but still partially obstructed.

This is after I've cleared the openings up,

Alibro · Apr 10, 2016

That's pretty poor quality control. You have to wonder how long it would have taken the factory to clean that up before sending it out.
Good job BTW

Nodge68 · Apr 11, 2016

HTR has done what every K series head should have done when the HG is changed. The casting flash on some heads is so bad that it reduces the coolant flow through the head by more than 50%. I believe this is the reason why there is a measurable temperature difference between sides of the cooling jacket.
It's definitely a worthwhile mod to do, which is why I do it myself on any K series I change the HG on.

AFS1 · Apr 18, 2016

I'll check the casting when I lift the head and see if it needs some minor grinding. How did you get rid of the filings (paraffin bath?) from the head? On a similar note, but regarding the block itself, what do you use to stop scurf, muck, gasket residue etc. from falling into the piston pots or down the water/oil ways?

Nodge68 · Apr 18, 2016

AFS1 said:
I'll check the casting when I lift the head and see if it needs some minor grinding. How did you get rid of the filings (paraffin bath?) from the head?

Wash out the grindings by flushing with a strong water flow. Follow this with a blow through with and airline. If oil is present? then a blast of carb cleaner will be needed before an additional airline blast.

AFS1 said:
On a similar note, but regarding the block itself, what do you use to stop scurf, muck, gasket residue etc. from falling into the piston pots or down the water/oil ways?

Paper towel can be stuffed into the water jacket and cylinder bores. I go though about 10 rolls of paper towel when rebuilding an engine.

Freelander 1 Modified Oil Rail - 1.8 K series 2005

AFS1

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Nodge68

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Alibro

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AFS1

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htr

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Alibro

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htr

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Alibro

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Nodge68

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