Model LM322 with a very strange symtom

Dear experts,

I am still trying to figure out the main cause of the malfunction on Range Rover LM322 TDI.

The following symtom could be described as followed:

-engine is cold, the car starts right away without any trouble
-once the engine is warm (driving time approx. 15 min.) then taking a short break, the car won´t start again or starts hardy until it stalls. I have to wait for at least 30 minutes until the car will start again.
-once the engine is warm (driving for at least 1 hour) then taking a short break, the car will start without any hesitation.
-when I stop at a traffic light (hill upwards) the revmeter is falling from 800 revs to 600 revs and back to 800 /unstable rotation rate.

Till now none of the mechanics could find the problem, fuel filter is brand new, battery new, alternator new, no codes were displayed or detected.

Has anyone an idea what the cause of malfunction could be?

Many thanx to tipps and hints.

Steven

Check the in tank pump and the secondary in line pump near the front of the rear wheel arch LH side.

Dear Datatek,

thank you for your prompt answer.
I assume that the LM322 TDV8 3.6 has just two pumps. One is below the rear bench (low pressure fp) and a high pressure fp which is mounted behind the fan. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Thank you in advance
Steven

Pretty sure one in tank as well as it's saddle tank each of prop shaft.

Steven911 said:

Dear Datatek,

thank you for your prompt answer.
I assume that the LM322 TDV8 3.6 has just two pumps. One is below the rear bench (low pressure fp) and a high pressure fp which is mounted behind the fan. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Thank you in advance
Steven

Click to expand...

There is one in the tank as far as I'm aware.

When turning the key into ignition on, you should here the in tank pump whirring away, it may stop or continue whirring until you start it. Remove the fuel filler and have someone turn the key to ignition on but not start the engine.

Need a diagnosis on it to get requested vs actual values to get looking in the right area rather then loading the parts cannon at it

Dear experts,

I think that finally -thanx to your help- I found the reason of the bad idling. Have a look at the picutres and judge yourself.
The fuel tank seems pretty dirty, I assume that the filter of the fuel pump is not looking much better. Preventively I will change the fule pump (old one 170.000 miles).

What do you guys suggest to buy the whole unit or just the motor unit which should be much cheaper (part number?) and how would you clean the diesel tank?

Thank you for your suggestions.

Best regards
Stevan

Steven911 said:

Dear experts,

I think that finally -thanx to your help- I found the reason of the bad idling. Have a look at the picutres and judge yourself.
The fuel tank seems pretty dirty, I assume that the filter of the fuel pump is not looking much better. Preventively I will change the fule pump (old one 170.000 miles).

What do you guys suggest to buy the whole unit or just the motor unit which should be much cheaper (part number?) and how would you clean the diesel tank?

Thank you for your suggestions.

Best regards
Stevan

Click to expand...

It's not as dirty as some I have seen. I suspect you may be the victim of bacterial growth in the diesel, a common problem when tanks are kept half full or less allowing condensation to form. Bactericide can be purchased at yacht chandlers and on line.
Always keep the tank as full as possible especially in winter when condensation is more likely.
Personally, I would change the whole unit.