Classic Misfiring at 2-3000rpm

Crumbs! It's a wonder there isn't bits of gearbox littered all over Inverness



Noted

Wazzajnr said:

I wasn't quite right, it's a problem with the pressure not being bled off from the first clutch pack after a gear has been selected. So, if you do want to rev it, the recommendation is to switch off the engine for 60 seconds then it's safe to rev to 2000rpm for up to 90 seconds providing no gear has been selected.
Applies to park and neutral.

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Interesting. I can see Park being an issue because, as you say, the output shaft is locked. However, in neutral everything should (?) be free to spin freely. However, if the first clutch pack is effectively still turning then you can see that heating up pretty quick.

Wazzajnr said:

Park and neutral are the same condition, only the park pin is engaged in park on the output shaft.
I seem to remember that it's something to do with lack of clearance to the brake bands when they're not controlled and they can grab and strip the lining, I may be totally wrong on that though.
I do know that they aren't supposed to be reved much in park or neutral though.

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the rr box has no brake bands only clutch packs which generally have a lot of clearance unless plates are warping

Grrrrrr said:

Interesting. I can see Park being an issue because, as you say, the output shaft is locked. However, in neutral everything should (?) be free to spin freely. However, if the first clutch pack is effectively still turning then you can see that heating up pretty quick.

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unless t/box is in neutral out put is locked in neutral too

jamesmartin said:

unless t/box is in neutral out put is locked in neutral too

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Good point, forgotten it had a transfer box on the back.

See my second post after I looked it up!

jamesmartin said:

the rr box has no brake bands only clutch packs which generally have a lot of clearance unless plates are warping

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M

OK, on advice from above (not the previous post, but a LR god) I replaced the MAF sensor at a cost of 135 quid....aaaaaaannnnnnd.... Still the same, although not quite as bad. So, is it a learning thing or should I do the leads as well (even though only 8k on them and no obvious blue sparks)?

Or could the coils be failing

Doo said:

OK, on advice from above (not the previous post, but a LR god) I replaced the MAF sensor at a cost of 135 quid....aaaaaaannnnnnd.... Still the same, although not quite as bad. So, is it a learning thing or should I do the leads as well (even though only 8k on them and no obvious blue sparks)?

Or could the coils be failing

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Lambdas? Or did someone already suggest that?

Grrrrrr said:

Lambdas? Or did someone already suggest that?

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Actually, I suggested the O2 sensor would "seem" to be the obvious choice, but they aren't old, about a year and less than 8k on them

However, the exhausts are more rumbly than before (deeper bass note) with a slight pop (barely heard by anyone but me), so it's entirely possible a pin hole leak at the down pipe joins or the lambda's themselves. But it would have to be a pin hole as I said because the system is pretty tight.

I'm going to have to go to Hamish when he gets back from holiday and do the EAS anyway, so code reading with his serious system (a proper LR/RR reader so excellent that the local dealership go to him). She's due the mot on 28th June an all

My EAS problem is entitled "Arghhh, All At Once!" if you want to pop over there too please Grrrrrr.... I have another update.