Military Land Rover Series 2.25L Petrol Engine
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Well 12 volt it is then Thanks12v
J
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Another question about the oil, I could see the valves from the oil filler cap and they lok all new and shiny, should I squirt some oil on them too ?
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+1^ re the cost of 24 volt stuff. and hence the resale value of same!I think you will find the 24v stuff is worth quite a bit to sell on.
You have the other engine that should have all the bits you need.
Make sure and drain whatever preservation fluid they have put in and a bit of oil in the bores before trying to turn it over, by hand.
No reason to think it wont be a good engine.
J
tottot
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Not that complicated, many electric winch operators do this, separate systems for vehicle and winch.
As for benefit it depends what you already have. to convert engine to 12v will need starter, distributor or parts for like coil, condenser and probably temp and oil senders.
In the long term converting all to 12v is best to standardise parts for future replacement.
ExMil109
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I agree with the suggestion to convert to 12V.
The 24V system is quite complex and you would need a generator panel and maybe a shunt box from a FFR LandRover, plus all the harness/connectors, to make it work.
By comparison, fitting a 12V starter, distributor and alternator should be easier.
Another thought: the military engines have oil coolers so you have a feed pipe to the cooler from your oil filter block. Unless you have a cooler, you'll need to remove the plate and the pipework - use the shorter bolts from your old engine to put it back together.
The 24V system is quite complex and you would need a generator panel and maybe a shunt box from a FFR LandRover, plus all the harness/connectors, to make it work.
By comparison, fitting a 12V starter, distributor and alternator should be easier.
Another thought: the military engines have oil coolers so you have a feed pipe to the cooler from your oil filter block. Unless you have a cooler, you'll need to remove the plate and the pipework - use the shorter bolts from your old engine to put it back together.
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Just filled up with nice new oil and wondered what this bloody thing was, I take it this is the oil cooler ? Taped the end up so nothing coming out but what should I do with it ?
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ExMil109
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That flexi pipe is the feed from the oil cooler to the sump. It's not under pressure so you can just blank that one off (keep the end above the level of oil in the sump).
But you need to find out where the pressure feed pipe goes (orange arrow in pic below). When the engine is running, that pipe will have oil under pressure. If the end isn't well capped off, there will be oil everywhere...
The best option in my opinion is to remove the plate (yellow arrow) and put the flter back without it - you need shorter bolts but these will be on your old engine.
But you need to find out where the pressure feed pipe goes (orange arrow in pic below). When the engine is running, that pipe will have oil under pressure. If the end isn't well capped off, there will be oil everywhere...
The best option in my opinion is to remove the plate (yellow arrow) and put the flter back without it - you need shorter bolts but these will be on your old engine.
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Thanks Mate, here is pic of where that pipe comes out, it goes up top and through to other side, where is it supposed to go ? and what can I blank it off with ?
Found an old 12 volt pully just needs a good clean
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ExMil109
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That pipe goes to the oil cooler as per pic below. You could blank it off if you could find the correct fitting, but it's easier to remove the adaptor (part 247753 below) and put the oil filter back without it. The adaptor sits between the oil filter and the block and it's easy to unbolt the filter and remove it. But then you need to put the filter back with shorter bolts, which you should have from your old engine.
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Great Mate Thanks, think I will just remove the adaptor, Is there anything that will fit that flexi pipe to block it off ? or can I remove it and plug the hole in sump ?
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Cheers Mate do you think another sump plug will fit ?
Just checked the part number and Blanchards list it a s BSF
https://pablanchard.co.uk/Engine/Ba...16-BSF-232349?sort=p.price&order=asc&limit=50
https://pablanchard.co.uk/Engine/Ba...16-BSF-232349?sort=p.price&order=asc&limit=50
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Cheers Mate
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Just to verify will these bolt straight on to my engine
Starter Motor - Paddock Spares
Alternator - Series - 4cyl Petrol and Diesel - Paddock Spares
Distributor Electronic- Black Cap - Paddock Spares
Starter Motor - Paddock Spares
Alternator - Series - 4cyl Petrol and Diesel - Paddock Spares
Distributor Electronic- Black Cap - Paddock Spares
Why not down load the pdf parts manual can be found if you do a search for smithies landrover a NZ website of interest will show up .
Alternator requires a bracket that fits lower RH front. I have one that I repaired which will work but will not accept the sliding portion on rear of alternator.
You may need different pulleys also.
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Thanks just found it will have a good look through it.
