mig welder wanted to repair chasis

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don't they are a pile of ****, as said before-seen one in action and fooking useless.
Buy a clarke second hand will do you proud if new is a stretch-plus welding course at local college.
 
cheers fanatic, was seeing if anyone had one for sale. I guess everyone who got their welder needs it to fix their own problems! I have been looking out on ebay and just waiting til sutting good comes up. Im right in thinking I need a 150amp really yeah. I know someone said that 30-40 would do 3mm.

the chasis is steel right, not mild steel.

is it best to just get a gas welder, or have you guys got a gas and gasless one? and what are your personal views on it. I know the mig wleder forum says gas is best
 
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cheers fanatic, was seeing if anyone had one for sale. I guess everyone who got their welder needs it to fix their own problems! I have been looking out on ebay and just waiting til sutting good comes up. Im right in thinking I need a 150amp really yeah. I know someone said that 30-40 would do 3mm.

the chasis is steel right, not mild steel.

is it best to just get a gas welder, or have you guys got a gas and gasless one? and what are your personal views on it. I know the mig wleder forum says gas is best

Gas and run it on pub co2 gas or it costs a fortune on disposables.
there is a 151te near you used £50 reserve not met on ebay within 50 miles of you.

Be careful of welder models the model number will generally be more than welder output(check clarke stuff in machinemart).

The 151 I had before moving on to a commercial welder was extremely good for the money and will weld trailers etc.

Horses for courses really, but you will do better with a gas welder-gasless wire expensive.

What I'm trying to say is-hobby mig from clarke,sealey etc will do you proud-but if your planning to learn and use it regularly, the hobby mig will take all you throw at it. But will **** you off with short lance
 

questions to ask the seller
1)pics
2)condition of liner, wire feed, gas valve, swan neck -most will not use anti spatter spray and this shows with heavy erosion of swan neck.(loads of use)

Gas valve should shut off completely when trigger released.
All settings should work.

the wire should move smoothly at all speeds, unless the tension is incorrect or the liner is knackered
Swan neck about 9.99
nozzles are cheap and so are shrouds-stocked at local machinemart
 
haha yup I am going to look for stuff to weld before I set myself lose on the defender :) I got sompe steel box I could play with. any ideas where best place to get 3mm plates to weld on chasis? I want just steel plates yeah? or is it mild stuff (mild being mixed with something I guess)
 
is the steel 3mm thick on the landy chassis? I'd recommend you weld steel of the same thickness in, then you don't have to mess around with pre-heating parts of it, or spending too long on the one bit before flicking over to the thinner bit. It might seem like a good idea to put some massive heavy plate on it, but i don't think it's worth it, not that I've ever had to tackle my chassis with a welder :)

I love my MIG. It's a Nu-MIG 135, and I got it for free. It's seen better days, but after giving it a new steel coil liner, swan neck liner, shroud, tip, gas tube, regulator and fixing the wire spool mount, it's great :)

To be honest, I love my arc welder even more than the MIG. It's a lot more fun, you can see what you're doing better, and they can reach places MIGS can't. I still haven't tackled my chassis with either :) I think the chassis is thick enough that an arc welder could be suitable, and it's a lot cheaper to get in to it, both in terms of initial and ongoing cost.
 
buy some anti spatter spray, as it will cut down the burning of feed wire to tips as you practice and cut down fouling of shroud.
Also if you know someone who is local-get them to set it up for you.
 
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